OP
OP
robjh
Legendary Member
- Location
- Cambridgeshire - almost Essex
Yes, badly concave describes my rim on the side that failed. It had done around 10-12000 miles but that still doesn't seem much.
Spectacular rim split
- Thread starter robjh
- Start date
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Yes, badly concave describes my rim on the side that failed. It had done around 10-12000 miles but that still doesn't seem much.
Mine had only done 4700k...must have been made from cheese
Brake pad material is another variable.
ColinJ
Puzzle game procrastinator!
- Location
- Todmorden - Yorks/Lancs border
Doing lots of descending on wet, gritted roads is the worst of the lot. I hate the sound of my blocks and rims wearing away but I don't have a choice about braking round here. If I didn't brake on this kind of descent, I would faceplant on a dry stone wall!
Disk brakes for me on future bikes!
ColinJ
Puzzle game procrastinator!
- Location
- Todmorden - Yorks/Lancs border
That's what I do. I'm happy to hit speeds of well over 50 mph on descents, but not on bends!
Crankarm
Guru
- Location
- Nr Cambridge
I have several sets of Mavic Open Pro rims but the CD ones. Never had one fail yet although one rim is a bit concave on the braking surface. Perhaps I shall gracefully retire it. I also use Mavic A719 rims.
Rohloff_Brompton_Rider
Formerly just_fixed
This is true, I checked the speedo when I overtook him.That's what I do. I'm happy to hit speeds of well over 50 mph on descents, but not on bends!
ColinJ
Puzzle game procrastinator!
- Location
- Todmorden - Yorks/Lancs border
On fixed, with his feet off the pedals!!!!!
PS I have no idea how one would get the feet safely back on the pedals without stopping first?
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Rohloff_Brompton_Rider
Formerly just_fixed
Wheeeeeeeeeeeeeee!!!!!!!!!!!!!On fixed, with his feet off the pedals!!!!!
PS I have no idea how one would get the feet safely back on the pedals without stopping first?
andrew_s
Legendary Member
- Location
- Gloucester
As I remember it, the technique was one foot at a time, lowering the foot from above until the pedal taps the sole of the shoe, give it a couple of taps to get the timing, start pedalling, and wriggle the cleat into the clip.On fixed, with his feet off the pedals!!!!!
PS I have no idea how one would get the feet safely back on the pedals without stopping first?
If both feet were unclipped (fords), I used to be able to clip back in up to about 80 rpm, if it was only one foot (worn cleats), I could manage up to about 110-115 rpm.
On worn rims, brake block material seems to make a lot of difference because some pick up bits of embedded grit a lot more easily than others, and it's the grit that destroys the rims rather than the brake pads themselves.
mmmmartin
Random geezer
Very many thanks for this - now ancient - post, @robjh because I have Open Pro on the rear of my Thorn audax and the wear indicator has disappeared - it was pretty thin before Friday's york-Hull ride but afterwards it's now disappeared. I was wondering whether to buy a rim and transfer the spokes over then pay someone at the LBS to do the final adjustments but opted to phone Thorn and order an identical replacement. My thinking that a new rim, an hour or two of faff then paying the LBS wouldn't come to a lot less than the £90 Thorn wanted for a replacement brand new. The last one was on the bike when i bought it about 10 years ago.
