Sub 8kg bike for not too much money

Page may contain affiliate links. Please see terms for details.

Mugshot

Cracking a solo.
To me yes, I've been climbing the same hills on the same bike for five years, the bike is older, and I am older, but I can't eeek out anymore speed - so I wan't to cheat and get a lighter bike so my climbs are quicker. I will still use my Alu Defy in the winter and training - but I wan't a smart summer "dry" weather bike. I can't afford or justify anything over £1100/1200, so I need the lightest machine for the least outlay.
Exactly, the point I was making is that you have a clear idea of what you want and it's your money to spend as you see fit, because before long the thread will decend into a will you climb faster or not debate, which isn't what you asked for :okay:
 
What you want is what you want and you should spend the money how you see fit.

That being said 2kg won't make much difference to your climbing speed unless you are pretty lightweight overall. Probably almost undetectable (I await the anecdotes about sensations of floating uphill, Strava KOM's and Sportive conquering's), you are talking a couple of seconds here, a couple of seconds there. If that is what you are expecting, then great, if you are expecting a world of difference, it might be an idea to align expectations with reality.

If all the things remains equal including riders weight and fitness, 2 kg or estimated 20% less bike weight would make an appreciable difference. Its science.
 
OP
OP
Rooster1

Rooster1

I was right about that saddle
I've read a few books on sport and weight, and I appreciate that 2lb off of me, will be a far greater improvement over 2lb off of the machine. But I literally don't have much more I can lose. I will keep trying though.
 

vickster

Legendary Member
Why not try better wheels on the Defy for a bit while the weather is still unreliable. Zondas or Fulcrum 3s are popular at under £300. Then you can shift them to the new bike later
 

Rob3rt

Man or Moose!
Location
Manchester
If all the things remains equal including riders weight and fitness, 2 kg or estimated 20% less bike weight would make an appreciable difference. Its science.

It will make a difference, the magnitude of the difference however will not be particularly large, probably not legitimately perceptible real time (unless the rider is very light) and timed efforts up the same climb would vary by only small amounts.

Exactly, the point I was making is that you have a clear idea of what you want and it's your money to spend as you see fit, because before long the thread will decend into a will you climb faster or not debate, which isn't what you asked for :okay:

Oop's.... to be fair, the hope of climbing faster was one of the drivers in asking the question, as such it is not really irrelevant to consider/discuss the realities of this.
 
Last edited:

Mugshot

Cracking a solo.
Oop's.... to be fair, the hope of climbing faster was one of the drivers in asking the question, as such it is not really irrelevant to consider/discuss the realities of this.
:smile: And to be fair there was no hope that it wouldn't become the expected discussion anyway.

Edit: However I do find it a little frustrating sometimes when people say what they'd like to spend their money on and are then questioned not from the angle of challenging expectations in order to help but more as a thinly veiled attack because it isn't what the questioner would spend their money on.
I know you weren't doing this by the way.
 
Last edited:

youngoldbloke

The older I get, the faster I used to be ...
I have 4 bikes. It is easier to climb a given hill on the lightest one. The lightest has the best wheels. The next 2 have the same wheels. Hills are easier on the lighter one. Gearing is very similar on all of these 3, though I find I am not using as low a gear on the lightest as on the others. Weight does make a difference. Maybe not faster, but easier. BTW I'm under 62kg, could lose another few kg maybe, but not over weight. Also 68 this year, so figure I'll take advantage of any help I can get :okay:.
 
Last edited:

Justinslow

Lovely jubbly
Location
Suffolk
Off topic but - there must be a point where the rider can be too light and therefore not have enough muscle strength to actually pedal the thing very far?

And are all the weights quoted by your good selves with the addition of real world items such as - pedals, tools, computers, lights, saddle bags, bottles, etc etc. if you are just weighing it as it came out of the box what use is that? And if you carry your "stuff" in your pockets you need to include that aswell I would have thought, as it would otherwise be in a saddle bag attached to the bike. Surely the weight figure needs to be as "you" would take it out for a "reasonable" ride.
For instance, my bike comes in at around 9kg bare but with the addition of all the tat goes up to something like 10.5kg.
Edit. And if I fill both my bottles it goes up to 12kg!
Edit 2. If I fill both bottles and I get on to ride, my "all up" weight is 87kg.
 
Last edited:

steveindenmark

Legendary Member
Out of interest, how much does your scooter weigh?

I have 2 Ian. A steel one andan alu one. The alu one is lighter and faster, but I put that down to the wheels more than the weight. But as I dont have gears to help, maybe the lack of weight does help.

The alu one weighs 6.9kg and the steel one weighs 10kg. The steel one is more akin to a mountain bike and the alu to a road bike.
 

vickster

Legendary Member
A 24 minute climb :ohmy: I'd be dead and buried by the top!

(trying to recall how long it took to get up Box Hill last time...not that long)!
 
Top Bottom