The Big Big Trip Journal! If you want to make the man (or woman) upstairs laugh, just tell him your plans!

[HobbesOnTour]

Day 755, Thursday, October 07, 2021, San Gil to Barichara (via Villa Nueva), 31km Total KM 12703
Min meters 1120, Max Meters 1627
Total Climb 834 Total Descent 646
Min Temp 22 Max Temp 41 Ave Temp 29

Figaries on top of figaries!

I woke up confused.
A bad night's sleep induced by cramp that had to be walked off had me up a few times. It had been my (provisional) figary to head up to Guane, a small town in the mountains, but it was close to 9 am and that would be in the heat of the day. Maybe I should stay here and take a daytrip unloaded? The place I was staying in was only OK. The internet was poor, I got locked in a bathroom because of a bad lock, the wash basin was blocked dumping water on the floor and I had no key for my room. San Gil is a touristy spot and options are limited especially at the bottom end of the scale.

Two fabulous trees in the park. Labeled as "Happy Marriage" they are 310 years old! Given the development of the town it's a testament to someone that this little oasis of calm and beauty survived.

​

Grumpy, I got up and headed for a little riverside park that showed up as an interesting place.
It wasn't just interesting it was wonderful! Peaceful and quiet, full of plants, birds and squirrels (possibly other animals too) it had two swiftly flowing rivers running through it. There was a swimming pool too!
I bought a coffee and wandered. So, so different from the busy, busy town outside. I was charmed and my grumpiness lifted. I'd stay another day, explore the town a little, come back to this park and write up my notes (so inspirational) and head up to Guane tomorrow.

Walking through the park. Birds singing, squirrels playing (and looking for food), ríos rippling...... A fantastic little spot. I stopped to compliment the little older lady who took my money and she was delighted, leaving her booth to talk to me and making sure to explain that with my armband I could return all day long!

​

I returned to the hotel and instead of checking out asked to stay another night. No problem!
I went upstairs and started to get organised for spending the day outside when a tap on my door resulted in a "pocito" increase in the rate. Almost 50%!
No. Just no.
Instead of packing for the day, I packed to leave and was on the road for 11:30, destination Barichara.
Barichara is a bigger town on the way to Guane with more (reasonable) priced accommodation options. A quick scan of Booking gave me an excellent last minute deal. (The place I left had vacancies at the lower rate!)

I don't know what it is but put me on or near water and I am happy and calm. It was around here I decided to stay an extra day

​

There was climbing and there was bright sun and heat. Plus there was a tad of frustration that having made up my mind I'd had to change it last minute.

Spying some shade I pulled in and sat down for a while. I was in no rush and there was no point in pushing myself too hard.
That's when I met Chu who pulled up in his motorbike. Enthused by my trip he said that there were a lot of people in Barichara who would want to meet me. He gave me complicated directions to his house and invited me to call around when I made it up.

I continued on up, making use of the shade when offered. The views were very pretty and traffic was light. Easy going except for the heat and climbing.

Leaving San Gil. Feckin' yellow cabs again! Damn steep too! The Plaza is pretty and well used, the rest of the town that I saw is functional, urban and to my eyes ugly.

​

Spying a restaurant I pulled in. Mildly peckish and very thirsty I ordered a coffee and water and looked at the menu. Ordering blind I actually ordered a soup! Colombia may cure me of my soup phobia!
My coffee when it came was delicious! Mexican style, flavoured with cinnamon and cloves. The boss was in a chef's jacket and neat trousers, the best turned out restaurant employee I've seen in a long time and I was his only customer. He was very happy when I raved about his coffee.
A young couple came in for a while and left before me since I was in no rush. Noticing the bike the young fella started talking about me to the boss. When the boss asked me where I'd come from all three were amazed. And again when I said where I hoped to go. Young fella was trying to be cool but his girlfriend kept saying "Oh my God" (in English) and her eyes were on fire! He quickly pulled her out of there!
Time to go I paid my bill, the chef honestly returning the extra note (I was confused again! In my defence there are old and new notes).
He offered me a final coffee before I left but with the heat and more climbing ahead of me I declined.

A good indication of the road to Barichara - decent surface, quiet, interesting landscape. Pleasant.

​

Back on the road again I stopped again near the peak for something cold. Sitting down there was a very cold atmosphere beside me. A car had pulled in, steam coming out of something in the engine. A woman was looking very, very unhappy, a kind of "I told you" vibe coming from her. A man, big, strong but looking very sheepish was standing looking at the car.
Eventually, he got some water, poured it in and they set off. Not a single word spoken between them yet some very serious communication had taken place!

Soon I was rolling downhill and enjoying the cooling breeze. It was pretty much all downhill now to the hotel outside town. I thought I'd pass the hotel, hit town and then return. It had a swimming pool! A dip would be nice! Ah, bliss!

I don't know why I did it but at a sign for Villa Nueva I stopped, thought, had a quick look on Osmnand and turned off.

A wiser person than I would have put a bit more thought into things (a town called New Town may not be a cultural attraction?) and a less impetuous one might have looked at the elevation profile in a bit more detail before commiting but what else are figaries and adventures for?

The pleasant Plaza in Villa Nueva. A quiet, dusty town, agricultural with lots of buildings of red (local) blocks, most left unplastered. I received lots of stares that I took as simple curiosity and nothing more

​

Not surprisingly, a lesser road off a lesser road was quiet and a lot of fun as it ran downwards. A slightly different perspective was had regaining all the height! I was in rich, fertile farmland now the soil very orange.
Villa Nueva was a disappointment - new certainly, straight, angular and very dusty. I couldn't even get down the main street as it was being worked on behind big black sheets. By instinct I found the Plaza, better than I had started to expect with a lovely tree as a centrepiece. The church was coldly modern.

Then it was back through the dusty town and onto backroads to take me to Barichara. I had got a bit of a shock before I left the Plaza to see it was heading on for 5pm - and darkness!

The landscape on the way in to Villa Nueva. I'd passed several decent sized farm operations and to my untrained eye the land looked fertile and productive.

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The smart, sensible thing to do would be to double back to where I had turned off. The adventurous thing to do would be to take the backroad Osmand said would bring me to Barichara. It's been a long time since I was smart and sensible!

Adventure!!!! There's something so exciting about taking a figary like this! I have no idea if I'll be able to travel the whole way, I didn't look at the elevation chart and if it rains on that surface I'm fecked! If the worst comes to the worst I'll have a bad day but a funny story.

​

From the get go there was a ridiculously steep climb. I had no idea of the relative altitudes of Barichara and Villa Nueva but thankfully it was relatively flat or downhill with the ocassional steep climb for fun.
The surface varied from concrete lanes for the really steep bits to compact mud to gravel. Hard work at times but great fun!
Meeting a tuk tuk my mind relaxed a bit. If a tuk tuk can travel the road so can I. Despite feeling a bit of pressure due to the time I couldn't help stopping regularly. This was adventure! Out in the middle of nowhere, just the ocassional motorbike passing by on a narrow, twisty road of gravel, sand, and whatever else happened to be there.

Ah! So that's why the buildings are red around here! Narrow roads, stonewalls an ominous sky that I'm ignoring and bemused motorcyclists. Great fun!

​

Arriving into Barichara Osmand let me down by leading me down a very, very, steep, crazy paved street to a dead end. No option but to turn around, push back to the top and continue on. I took another death defying street down to the main road and turned towards San Gil and the hotel. Another climb, now in the dark, for a couple of kms and I was home.
I wasn't going to go looking for Chu in the dark.
Informed that the Booking rate was wrong (way too low!) the receptionist agreed to honour it anyway. Checking in took a while, finding my room another. The shower took even longer - I had hot water!!!!
Then down to organise food. Without a restaurant it was order in. My first choice wasn't open so all in all it took about 30 minutes to order a pizza.
I have a fabulous room that looks over a pool! Yes a pool! And I'm too tired to do anything about it.

My first little sashay off the bigger roads in Colombia was a success!

​

I could have arrived earlier, swam, eaten in town or bought my own ingredients but I took the fun road!
Not a thing was regretted!

Chat? Yes Please!
https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098

 

[HobbesOnTour]

Day 756, Friday, October 08 2021, Barichara to Cabrera (via Guane), 27km Total KM 12730
Min meters 690, Max Meters 1312
Total Climb 568 Total Descent 882
Min Temp 21 Max Temp 43 Ave Temp 31

I don't know where to begin!

I think we can all agree that my "planning" for this tour is a tad on the haphazard side. And frankly, since this pandemic my goals have shifted towards enjoying each day as opposed to fretting over a plan and schedule. Border dashes in Central America made that a bit more difficult but I was looking at Colombia and thinking "Big country! Three months! Lots of time".

Well today put things to the test and I've ended up in a delightful place that was not on the itinerary after an epic, but very tough, day.

My first divergence from the plan occurred before I even got up! Breakfast being served from 7am swayed me to skip my planned much earlier departure. (I was awake from 4am). Instead I threw on my "Sounds of Lockdown" playlist on YouTube and listened to some old friends. I had to hum along when it was buffering (poor wifi) but that's just part of the fun.

The surprisingly quiet, very peaceful and very pretty Plaza/Park in Barichara. A popular tourist destination I got to see a glimpse of the "real" town with locals going about their daily business.

​

The hotel wasn't busy but I still got a bit of a land when I arrived at the breakfast area to see a few tables for two and one sad, lonely looking table for me!

Breakfasted and coffeed I was engaged by another resident so had to have a chat. I couldn't be rushing off - that'd be rude!
I arrived in Barichara planning to visit the Plaza and motor off. I had a bit of a roundabout route planned for today - Up to Guane then down to Soccorro rejoining my friend Ruta45 (A).
Then I saw the Plaza. Actually no, this one is a Park. Delightfully green, cool and alive in a very pretty, very calm town. Nothing for it but to stop and soak it all up. A coffee and a pastry couldn't do any harm

The very pretty local church (it may even be a Cathedral) made of local stone. In these hilly towns (and Barichara is hilly!) the churches often have a fine stairway leading up to them. I find them very impressive

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I was accosted by an older woman who was really thrilled by my trip. She's from further south and up here hiking and visiting the small towns. Waiting for a bus to take her to her next one she had her own guide. He was very quiet, but then again we both were because when she got into full flow there was no stopping her!
She did dig into her bag to give me a new facemask though!
Her guide was impressed that I knew her next town, Cachiri, since I'd passed high above it a few days ago on the fabulous Canyon ride. When he heard where I was going he suggested Cabrera - a name that meant nothing to me.
Saved by the arrival of their bus I retired to the park to enjoy my coffee. Undoubtedly, this is a tourist town, a highbrow tourist town, but on a Friday morning, early, I got to see the normal side. Much quieter than I am used to.
Realising I hadn't seen the church (so dense was the flora in the Park) I corrected that and was enthralled by it. Made out of local reddish stone it was very charming.

In the Plaza/Park in Barichara. So calm, so relaxing most definitely not a place for rushing through

​

Like Girón, the streets were narrow and steep but unlike Girón there was a bit of individuality in the colour schemes. Everything was white, of course, but doorframes and windows could be blue or yellow or green. Surprisingly bright and cheerful.
The local bookshop had a sign up "More books less bullets, more imagination less fear". I liked that. (And I only needed Google for the bullets!)

Leaving town and heading into the clouds! I can't possibly explain but cycling into clouds is tremendously exciting to me! I suppose having my head in the clouds can only be an advantage in times like this

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Reluctantly I headed off and not just because I had a monster hill to climb. It was a lovely, lovely place. Calm. Peaceful.
Before I was even out of the town my touring heart was starting to pump excitedly - clouds were floating past just up there - I'm back in the clouds! I have no idea why but I find that very exciting.

Barichara wasn't finished with me though. Pillars marked the entrance/exit on this side so I had to stop for a photo. Then a little, a very little later, there seemed to be another little Plaza at the side of the road. Will they ever let me leave?

The road I'm supposed to be taking (if they'd stop laying on distractions on every bend!) complete with Cowboy! Beautiful Plazas, low clouds and now a Cowboy! Can this day get any better?

​

I pulled over to enjoy the view and realised that the side road was specially built by the council. Down I went to a precipitous drop but the most amazing view of yet another canyon! (A different river to a few days ago - I checked).
It was spectacular!
Great too for a practical demonstration of just how high I had climbed!

Whoah! Not for the faint of heart!

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By now my plan, my schedule, whatever you want to call it was in tatters as I climbed back on the bike and rode back to join the road.

Mountains in clouds, another canyon. Am I ever gonna get outta here?!

I find it interesting how farmers carve out pieces to farm amongst the wildness

Yeah, yeah, I know! More mountains in clouds!

​

And so brings part 1 to an end!

Chat? Yes Please!
https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098

 

[HobbesOnTour]

Day 756, Friday, October 08 2021, Barichara to Cabrera (via Guane), 27km Total KM 12730
Min meters 690, Max Meters 1312
Total Climb 568 Total Descent 882
Min Temp 21 Max Temp 43 Ave Temp 31

Part Two

I had a long, sweeping descent ahead of me and had I wanted to make up lost time I would have been disappointed. Very disappointed! The practical excuse is that the road was narrow and in poor shape with a lot of potholes but the imaginative response is that it's a magical road with fantastic views.

Looking back up at where I had come from. OK, the road wasn't great but it was pretty empty. However, blue mountains! And a solid wall so that I could stop anytime I wanted!

​

I stopped often. I savoured. I soaked it all up. Even from this height the river was alive and surging powerfully. Cows lolled in the shade. Goats were a bit more lively. An old battered pickup came down behind me blasting a song that the two guys in it were accompanying. The chorus was "Colombia" blasted with a passion that far exceeded their melodic abilities. I couldn't help but smile - a smile that was returned a hundredfold as they passed me.

I could stop a lot ......... So I did!

Near the road was (poor) farm country and I saw quite a few stone walls. I've no idea why, but I do like my stone walls. Further away was the river then further back the mountains, very blue today reached up into the sky and the clouds. I do like my cloud topped mountains. I had everything thing I wanted! It wasn't even too hot!

When I wasn't stopping I was sweeping!

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I observed a motorbike pull in at the gate to a farm and pick up a passenger. A biggish, black dog was springing around both in a kind of delerium and as they headed towards me he bounded along beside them until (presumably) on a signal from his boss he stopped dead. Thinking a playful dog would be the icing on the cake I slowed down but his demeanor changed from happy and springy to "What-The-Hell-Do-You-Think-You're-Doing?".

There's a little farm down there, stone walls, and of course, mountains and clouds

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Then the climbing began! Down into the granny gear and just take my time. There are trees here draped in a type of moss that just thrill me. They are so evocative, so moody. They cast an atmosphere. Beautiful.

A field of wonderful trees

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Stopped at the side I spotted movement and saw the most amazing, tiny lizard. His hide was like it was of polished bronze that changed to silver and ebony as he moved and the light played off him. His tail was a spectacular, brilliant metallic blue and swayed wildly as he moved. A tiny thing, he'd have comfortably have fitted in the palm of my hand.

It was poor farmland around here. Fields were hacked out of the scrub. The cloud cover meant that the worst of the sun was held at bay and humidity was not too bad. Working hard going uphill though had me bathed in sweat

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By this time a cunning plan was forming - see Guane and then return to Barichara for the night again! I'd get to see this fabulous road in both directions! And maybe get a chance to meet up with Chu.

I felt like Royalty riding along here!

​

It wasn't easy going up - it was steep - but it was very, very enjoyable. My legs started to complain of the climbing so then my plans started to change again. Maybe I'd stay in Guane.

Every bend just drew me along......

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Guane is 10km from Barichara. It took me 2.5 hours to cover the distance. I think I did it too fast!

And every bend was different

​

To be continued......

Same road going back down (for a bit)

​

Chat? Yes Please!
https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098

 

[HobbesOnTour]

Day 756, Friday, October 08 2021, Barichara to Cabrera (via Guane), 27km Total KM 12730
Min meters 690, Max Meters 1312
Total Climb 568 Total Descent 882
Min Temp 21 Max Temp 43 Ave Temp 31

Part 3

I am a terrible, terrible tourist!

Guane is lovely. It is old, it is small, it has a very pleasant Plaza and an amazing old church. But on a Friday morning it was deathly quiet.

Downtown Guane on a Friday morning. That first shop sells artesanal sweets flavoured with whisky amongst other things. You won't see good Irish whiskey wasted in such a fashion!

​

I was accosted (again!) by a couple who (again) reacted with wonder and enthusiasm to my adventures.
I did a lap of the Plaza, totally enamoured by the multi-use basketball court / football pitch included in it.

It's a hive of activity! I don't mean to be unfair. My understanding is that the indigenous people of this area are amongst the earliest Colombians. A concerted effort is being made to preserve and educate people of the history. In a small, small place like Guane that seems to have taken over and is the sole reason for its continued existence - a museum and lots of stores. I saw precious little evidence of "normal" life. Then again, there is a Pandemic.

​

I visited the church - a lesson in subtle style and elegance. Like Barichara made of local stone it had impressive, solid wooden doors at the front and along one side (for light and air). Two small chapels were along either side. There was no sign of the frankly scary statues that can inhabit Mexican churches. Pews were quite short and allowed a wide aisle to form. The roof was supported by ancient wooden beams roughly carved from trees.
I sat for a few moments and enjoyed a sense of calm descending.

The very, very impressive church. Solid and relatively simple, adapted to the conditions with open side doors for ventilation and coolness it struck me as sincere, if buildings can be such.​

Needing coffee I tried the most likely looking spot and had a fresh, strong black coffee brewed up in front of me. Sweets are the thing in these parts, artesan sweets so I tried some Arequipe with my coffee. Almost like a thick custard it was very, very sweet.

Earning our Tourist Points!

​

Most of the buildings were closed. I assumed that most are artesenal shops open at the weekends when I imagine the town is hopping.

I was incredibly impressed with the new sports court attached to the Plaza. Something actually for the people who live here. Right across the road from the school. And that view!

​

It's a very small place (look on Google Maps for Guane, Santander) and it didn't take long to explore it all.
This area (and the people from here) is viewed as the cradle of Colombia, I believe.

When you've seen all there is to see walk upwards and you'll come across vistas like this......

​

There is a museum but it was closed so my knowledge is not what it could be.
Under a big tree the local tuktuk drivers were playing cards waiting for custom. On the opposite side of the Plaza was the little school.

Or this......

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In the Plaza is a statue of a man, Isías Ardila Díaz, who I believe founded the museum. It has a simple, and to my mind, touching message. No big long rigmarole about what he had done just "Testimony of gratitude".

And this

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I found a wonderful view over the canyon and to the mountains and was amused to see they are building a "commercial" viewing platform that will no doubt offer all kinds of treats to tourists.
I did come across a fancy looking hospedaje (all the accommodation around here is crazy expensive) but as much as I liked the place there was nothing happening and nothing likely to happen. I decided to move on. Bad tourist!

The church and the Plaza

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Looking at Osmand to see if there was an alternative way back to Barichara (there is, but not recommended for bikes) I came across Cabrera, (where the guide had recommended earlier) not on my route but in the right general direction. Another small looking place but an interesting looking road. What to do?
Back to Barichara or more adventure?
More adventure of course!

To be continued....

Chat? Yes Please!
https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098

 

[HobbesOnTour]

Day 756, Friday, October 08 2021, Barichara to Cabrera (via Guane), 27km Total KM 12730
Min meters 690, Max Meters 1312
Total Climb 568 Total Descent 882
Min Temp 21 Max Temp 43 Ave Temp 31

Part 4

It was after noon when I rolled up and out of Guane. I'd filled up with water because I wasn't quite sure what was ahead of me. The first few kms were downhill back the way I had come and then I took a turn. At least a little signpost said the "tourist route" to Cabrera was good for bikes, hikers and horses!

What a feckin' road! What a view!

​

Ah, roads like this are one of the reasons I do this crazy stuff. It was fabulous. It was epic. It was filled with beautiful scenery, constantly changing, there were noises of animals in the ditches and birds singing (or trying to sing!) and the surface sliding under my tyres added a lovely frisson of risk and danger.

Four minutes later....... I am spoilt!

​

I don't think I went much faster downhill than up because I stopped so often. One moment the road veers away from a long drop into the canyon (crash barrier? What's that?), the next I'm cycling under a canopy of trees and I'm wondering where is the canyon?

Parts were a bit technical at times, but still great fun. Traffic was almost non existent and consisted of mainly motorbikes. They weren't going fast either!

Epic!

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For some reason the far off mountains were very blue today and with a blue sky above them and green slopes between us there was an exhilarating kaleidoscope of blues, greens and whites.

The descent came to an end at a ford. More adventure!
Then the climbing began.
Oh. Dear. God!
A more careful study would have revealed a ballpark 400 meter climb in 4km. And it started steep! Very steep!

When I saw this photo on my phone I thought that any book promoting bike touring as fun and adventurous should use this picture😊 It's bright, sunny, exciting and we have no idea what's around that bend!

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For the really steep parts they tend to put in two concrete lanes (maybe a double tyre width) with cobbles set in cement in the middle. It's quite a narrow space to cycle gradients well into double figures without either hitting the rough cobbles in the middle or going off the opposite edge.
There was no way I could cycle safely so I didn't. I pushed. And I heaved. I sweated buckets.
Surprisingly, very surprisingly for me, I didn't swear once!

As it turned out this was around the bend! Another río to ford!

​

I paused often, locking the breaks and leaning in to the gradient. There were very few places to comfortably rest the bike and now the sun was out in full force so shade was a consideration too.
Within five minutes I could have convinced you that I had just had a fully clothed shower! If your nose worked you could have called my bluff!

The road twisted and turned so I never knew what was around the next bend. Around one bend was a fabulous waterfall!

Bike Touring; A Route To Solving All of Life's Great Questions!

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I passed many farms, usually with dogs, some of whom barked, and a handful who came out to chase but then seemed to take pity on me and just looked confused.

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I knew I "only" had 4km of this until Cabrera but rounding a bend to see more of the "steep" concrete I pulled up and sat down to rest. Then Freddie came along on his motorbike. He jammed on his brakes and the words fell out of his mouth. If I didn't understand every word he said his eyes translated them for me. The sun had some serious competition!
If he told me once he told me half a dozen times how happy he was to meet me. To meet someone travelling the world on a bike! I gently corrected him that I have no plan for world domination, that the Americas are enough and his response, rightly enough, I suppose was that it's still a pretty impressive thing.
Chatting to him was like plugging myself into a socket and getting a charge. His enthusiasm seemed to sweep over any hill, no matter how steep.

Can I overuse the word "Epic"? Not on this road, I can't!

​

He asked me my name and I replied with the Spanish version, Francisco, explaining that it's Frank in English but these days I prefer Francisco. It's the name of an explorer, an adventurer. Frank is the name of a bookkeeper*. He misheard and called me Franklin. Hell, I've been called worse
(Later he passed me again going the opposite direction with an old man as passenger. "Hey Franklin", he happily called out several times as he seemed to explain to his passenger who I was. Franklin sounds cool!)

* No offence intended to any bookkeepers. Somewhere there's a certificate with Certified Accountant next to my name.

Off he went and I was recharged and ready for the last assault. The worst of the steep gradients were over and I was back onboard weaving over and back on hardpacked clay.

Waterfall!

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I met a couple of goats on a bend. While one was definitely loose, albeit with a rope hanging around his neck, one seemed tied up. Mr. I-Want-to-Break-Free was curious and not too shy. When I stopped he didn't run away but slowly ventured over to investigate me.
I know nothing about goats so I put my fist out like I do for dogs and he responded quite like a dog sniffing me.
I talked to him telling him what a lovely place he was living in but how bloody tough it was to cycle. He didn't seem to care too much.
I couldn't help but think of Iohan, one of the great adventure cyclists who died recently. His videos always featured animals, mainly horses that I recall.
So there, on the side of a sandy, single lane road in some mountains in Colombia I took a little time to remember an inspiration of mine.

Making a new friend and remembering an old inspiration

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The road continued ever upwards on clay. With jelly legs I managed to ride ok. With such small towns you can be in them before you know it and such was the way with Cabrera.

The waterfall...... Again. I really like this shot (Always look behind you, folks!)​

Chat? Yes Please! I'm gonna talk about this day until I run out of words!
https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098

 

[HobbesOnTour]

Day 756, Friday, October 08 2021, Barichara to Cabrera (via Guane), 27km Total KM 12730
Min meters 690, Max Meters 1312
Total Climb 568 Total Descent 882
Min Temp 21 Max Temp 43 Ave Temp 31

Part 5

The adventure's not over yet!

I headed for the Plaza not difficult to find in a small place and was charmed. A couple of fine trees, lots of seats, a couple of covered areas and a surprisingly large church. I did a lap of the Plaza figuring out that this was pretty much it for the town and stopped outside a "supermarket". I bought a cold drink, a banana and some bite size pastries - I was pretty hungry! - and sat on the Plaza. It's another quiet place, but a real place, not touristy like Guane.

The very pleasant Plaza

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I had asked the shopkeeper about an Hospadeje that showed up on Osmand and after a good rest made my way up.
Normally in a new town accommodation is the first thing I want to get sorted but not here. The fact that there seemed to be only one option should have applied a little pressure but everything else about the scene was the very opposite. Rushing would be a crime. I felt like I was in a Goldilocks position - everything was just right and I didn't want to do anything to upset that.

Mountains are everywhere!

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It's a very small town, population about 400 according to the shopkeeper. There's a surprisingly large and well kept Police station and I had the feeling that if there was no room at the Inn I may well be able to set up my tent in the Plaza.

As can be imagined I stood out but was not aware of any ill feeling or negativity. Folk responded to my greetings

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A man walking down the street started talking to me as I pulled in beside the neat looking hospedaje. It turned out that he seemed to be the boss. Then he was trying to call someone but because there's no signal we had to walk together for a signal. Then we met the lady he was looking for before he could call her. Then, instead of going back to the hospedaje we went to another building that looked like a wing of an old motel. A simple basic room and the cheapest so far! I'd to bring my water bottles back to the hospadeje to fill them up.

All white houses and steep hills!

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After a shower I did just that then returned to the park to see this little town go about its evening business. Very little happened and it was clear I was sticking out as a foreigner but felt none the worse for that.
And I wrote this day up.

This would be my road out of town. Steeper than it looks!

​

I need to eat and I don't think I've sat down and written so much in one go for a long, long time.
This day deserved it!

The lovely church from the Plaza

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I'm sure some of you are thinking "what a plonker! Five posts for a ride that was 27km!" Some days are like that though. They can't be planned for, they just happen, maybe are influenced by people we meet (I didn't know where Cabrera was this morning!), or people you "know" in some way, shape or form. A lot is about our own attitude. Personally, I find having time reduces pressure, reduces stress and opens up more possibilities.

The door of the church

​

And maybe some are thinking "It's alright for him, he's in Colombia. Everything is exciting over there".
To them, I'd say, yes, you have a point. But I used to do this in NL at weekends. A planned route rarely lasted past the first interesting diversion and I could end up anywhere. There's a wonderful freedom to changing things on the fly, to listening to recommendations and just going for it.

Doing a Francisco I think I'll call it!

Of course doing a Francisco can have its drawbacks...... Here I pulled up for a ferry in Zeeland to discover I was a bit early. The ferry ran between July & August and I arrived in May! 50km extra to a campsite!

Chat? Yes Please! I'm gonna talk about this day until I run out of words!
https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098

 

[HobbesOnTour]

Day 757, Saturday, October 09 2021, Cabrera to Socorro, 28km Total KM 12758
Min meters 645, Max Meters 1293
Total Climb 860 Total Descent 581
Min Temp 21 Max Temp 45 Ave Temp 32

An end to the figary taking

Now, there's no way that my accommodation last night will win awards but that is one of the beauties of bike touring - our needs become very, very basic and we are satisfied with the basics. I cooked up some pasta and tuna, read my book (no internet!) and slept a very satisfying sleep.

The next morning I was slow to get up, brewed a coffee, boiled some eggs and sat on the step outside. Village life is quiet, very quiet!
I packed up, returned to the Hospedaje to return my key and was offered more filtered water and directions for my journey.
The sensible thing was to take the best road back to San Gil and the 45 to Socorro (my destination from how many days ago?) but doing a Francisco meant taking the lesser known road!
I stopped off in the shop and the friendly shopkeeper wanted to know what I thought of the town. Hard to leave! A place that I didn't just see, but felt. Its calmness, its tranquility seeped into me.

Back on the road! What a morning!

​

Not necessarily a good thing considering that first up was a bloody big hill out of town and then onto a road with a solid surface that lasted for a few hundred meters. Distracted by a dog I got confused and missed a turn to the right thinking it led into a farm. Gizmo showed me that another right turn might work so I laboured ever upwards. Arriving at that second turn something didn't seem right so I wheeled around to a man backing out of his house to ask.
Sure enough, I'd missed my turn and while this road brought me close to where I needed to be they didn't connect!
I thanked him, chatted to his dog and rolled down the hill.
There, at the bottom, blocking the farm and leaving the road open was my direction giver! Clearly my reputation has spread to Colombia and the locals know I need all the help I can get!

WooHoo!

​

Pretty much straight away I was onto one of those concreted sections that mean steep! Very steep! Except this time I was going down! I'd have a long drop, a bit of flat and then a pretty hefty climb all before hitting any kind of civilisation.

Taking a break on the descent!

​

A big difference today was a relatively clear sky and a bright sun. An issue for later - I'd worry then.
A few more houses today hardly added to the almost non existant traffic and I was able to kick back and enjoy the ride, even if it was quite tricky at times. The landscape was positively glowing in the sunshine like someone had spruced it up for me.

As the meter numbers dropped down on Gizmo my year numbers were dropping too! An old man climbed grunted up a steep hill this morning a kid arrived at the bottom!

​

It's funny the things we notice as we pedal along. On the way to Villa Nueva I had noticed a farm with particularly distinctive fence posts. Nothing elaborate, but painted in a distinct colour scheme. As I passed the gate there was a sign up announcing posts for sale and since then, quite a lot of the farms had their own unique colored poles. I know Pride is supposed to be a sin but these struck me as an outward expression of pride and one that I approved of. If nothing else they are pleasant on the eye.

Look at the sky! The engineers gave me a fun road, Mother Nature put on a show!

​

When the steepest part of the descent was over the surface reverted to gravel or compacted mud. A few bends near little streams hadn't dried out since the last rain and were a reminder that I was either very foolish to be doing this road or just damn lucky!

Sorry for all the road shots..... But I think they're fan-bloody-tastic!

​

It was hard work even if descending and I was working my way through my water. This could be a problem later since there were no stores until I was back on the main road near the end. And that was up pretty high!

Look at the fence posts!

​

To be continued........ (I want to include as many pictures as I can)

Recycling at its finest? An armchair made from tyres!

​

Chat? Yes Please!
https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098

 

[HobbesOnTour]

Day 757, Saturday, October 09 2021, Cabrera to Socorro, 28km Total KM 12758
Min meters 645, Max Meters 1293
Total Climb 860 Total Descent 581
Min Temp 21 Max Temp 45 Ave Temp 32

Part 2

Eventually I encountered a river signifying an end to the descent. Spying a covered area I pulled in to the shade and relaxed for a while. The river behind me was roaring along, crashing against rocks and boulders so at odds with the peaceful scene around me.
With a phone signal I checked Booking for a deal in Socorro and, lucky as I am, snagged what I thought was a great last minute deal. They required an arrival time which I put at several hours away despite only having about 13km to go and explained I was travelling by bike. It was approaching noon, I was on a gravel road and had about 700 meters to climb.
With accommodation out of the way I could relax!

Flying along by the river!

​

I set off flying along the river thrilled as it's volume and tone changed as I moseyed along. If I had to climb it roared and if the road was flat it was much more gentle.

I had a very pleasant surprise crossing an old bridge as I spotted a little store. A cold coke (glass bottle bliss) in the shade was perfection. They had chairs made out of recycled tyres that were very cool!

The río. Very powerful.

​

The thing with crossing a river is that it's a sign of impending climbing. To my mind I now had two "legs" left. A big climb back to the main road (and food) and another climb along the main road to Socorro. I had accommodation, I had water. There was no rush. I said bye to the river.

I really didn't get too far until the bright, powerful sun proved too much. This was my view as I sat in the ditch in the shade (having done a thorough search for thorns!)

​

My relaxed attitude was put to the test pretty much immediately. The climbing was actually fine. Granny gear, reasonable spinning and I could use the whole road as needed because traffic was so light and generally slow. The problem was the blazing sun. A few stops in shade demonstrated the difference, about 8C. The problem was on a narrow road there were few places to stop and get off the bike. Seeing one likely spot I pulled in, hopped off and sat in the shade. I passed a very pleasant hour writing up my notes and picking photos for the blog. A few cars (and one MTBer) passed with no remarks.

Getting going again there seemed to be more shade (but height of trees and road angle in relation to the sun were more important) but I could maintain a reasonable rate of progress until I repeated my pause again. This time I was treated to a bigger version of my blue tailed lizard of the other day!

The sun might be cooking me but it does bring out the best in the scenery

​

It came as a pleasant surprise to suddenly find myself within spitting distance of the main road. There was nothing much at the junction so I turned the wrong way and rolled down to a restaurant down there.
With a slightly delicate belly (still) I knew I needed food but not the "big" food they had on offer. A chat and we settled on some rice, fried eggs and banana. Perfect!
The restaurant was opposite what seemed to be a prison! It didn't make me hurry up though!

With height comes the views!

​

Eventually, quite tired now, I got up and headed off for the last leg. It was going to be all uphill, only 7km or so, but even so it seemed a larger task than it was.
First up, I was back on Ruta 45, a two laner with infrequent shoulder. I had to get used to traffic again!
Secondly, there were a lot of powerful motorbikes racing along. These weren't the typical work horse small bikes, these were powerful, recreational and riding in packs taking the racing line and to Hell with anyone else. In all fairness, it's a great road for it.
Thirdly, I was out of puff. I think a lot of it was in my head - I had gone from being in the mountains, from travelling along a river and through canyons on exciting roads to back on a big road and having to take account of feckless boyracers. Looking to my right at the beautiful mountains and valleys just seemed to mock me.
Then, to add injury to insult the temperature was dropping and dark clouds were coming over the high hills to my left. Rain was coming and I couldn't go any faster!

Back on 45(A). As much as I like my old friend I was feeling bleh after leaving the country roads

​

In truth, that feeling only lasted as long as the steep climbing was going on. As it became more gentle I got into the swing of it better and as raindrops started to fall I rounded a bend to get my first view of Socorro and the magnificent twin towers of its main church.
Gizmo directed me to take what seemed an almost vertical crazy paved road uphill and since I forgot to pack my grappling hook I passed and took the next, more gentle turn.
This is a hilly town and there is no escaping the climbing! The rain wasn't helping. With much zig zagging I eventually made it skywards and found the little hospedaje. My accommodation was billed as an entire appartment and it did not disappoint!
A lovely older lady was waiting for me (having already sent a message to tell me to enjoy my journey) and had a jug of ice cold juice in the fridge for me! I have a fridge!
Such a warm, genuine and practical welcome lifted my exhausted spirits. The poor woman didn't bat an eyelid at the prospect of my wet, dripping bike coming inside and said simply that it's my place, do as I will.

Socorro! Believe it or not it was starting to rain. Big, angry clouds from the left while the sun beamed on the right!

​

With it raining I had a shower, cold (these mountain showers are always colder!) and washed all my gear by hand. Then, as the rain lightened I popped out to explore and get some food. There's a delightful old church down the road and I found a bakery and then a store for breakfast. The bakery was interesting because they also had tables and chairs (not unusual in itself) but they were filled, mainly with families, the adults drinking beer and the kids soft drinks. Very civilised!
I also stopped off to buy cigarettes, a surprisingly difficult experience. One of two men sitting over bottles of beer (common in shops) translated my Spanish for the old man behind the counter. When the old boy's back was turned he explained that he was a bit deaf. It was well dark by now, wet, steep hills everywhere so I returned to my home for the evening, an idea starting to form in my head.

What a great road! What a great decision!

​

I cooked up some pasta (I have a full kitchen!) and sat at a proper table to eat. Last night I ate on my bed! I haven't had such "home comforts" since CDMX! I do have to admit to a sudden pang of missing a place I can call my own. That surprised me.
Later, outside having a smoke my hostess (next door) answered the door to callers. I asked about staying another night - no problem and no messing with the rate either.
A Sunday in a small town, a Pueblo Patrimonio no less. What could be better?

Sometimes I think I'm the luckiest b****x in the world......

And other times I know I am!

Chat? Yes Please!
https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098

 

[HobbesOnTour]

Day 758, Sunday, October 10 2021 Socorro Rest Day

Ah! Lazy Sunday mornings!😀
I woke up about 4am, rolled over and went back to sleep.
I woke again about 7 but heard rain so read a little and went back to sleep.
The luxury!

The inside of a museum behind a locked gate. A lot of the bigger, older buildings have open spaces within

​

When I finally got up the rain was still falling so I popped on the coffee machine (using, I'm ashamed to say Panamanian coffee!) and had a refreshing cold shower.

I had a leisurely breakfast and due to the rain updated this Travelogue.
Then I went exploring!

Heading downtown (with the emphasis on down). I really like the exposed blockwork (in the shade)

​

It is amazing how quickly everything dries up under the blazing sun here. Within 30 minutes of the rain clouds disappearing the streets were bone dry.

The main Plaza (there are at least three), densely filled with trees and flowers, families and pigeons!

​

I meandered downhill to the main, twin towered church and the main Plaza.
On the way I passed a museum - closed! I don't seem to have any luck! This place is full of history!
The Plaza was closed off to traffic so it was peaceful and a gathering place for locals.
I found the church to be very impressive but due to geological issues parts of it move! The tower section has actually been separated from the rest of the building!

A tree in a smaller, higher Plaza

​

This isn't a big town, or at least the old town isn't, although it is very steep. I was able to indulge in my following my nose method for exploring, over and back, up and down. Not a bit of hassle did I receive.

The church viewed from the Plaza. It appears that a lot of work goes into keeping it upright!
(My subsequently acquired book tells me it is a replica of St. Peters Basilica in Rome)

​

I sat and enjoyed a coffee and watched people. There is a lovely relaxed vibe that is contagious.

The Plaza Again! Socorro is an important location in the history of Colombian independence - There are quite a few statues and monuments

​

I wandered through the market in the commercial area. Lots of people around but few transactions. The busiest places seemed to be the ones selling beer but I saw no drunkeness, just sociability. Outside were loads of pick up trucks, most double cabbed (front and back seats) with seats in the bed as well. And roof racks for luggage. These seem to be the collectivo buses - local transport.
Without exception they were packed tight. Covid restrictions how are ya?

Not all the buildings are white!

​

There's a real pleasure to be had in wandering these towns. There's a lot of character and a lot more variety of buildings (and colours) then Giron as an example. The steep streets lead to very high, usually narrow, footpaths. They can be an adventure in themselves.

I christened this Coronation Street! Another church (there are at least three within a couple of minute's walk of each other and a beautiful fourth up high). This one had no pews so the congregation sat on well spaced, plastic terrace chairs.

​

People seem more reserved than say México. There is a definite deficiency in smiles. Step out of the way of someone or hold a door open and there won't be an acknowledgement. That's not to say that I find it unfriendly - just reserved.
In fairness, it seems that as I move south the more reactions I get on the road - or it may just be the mountains!

Interesting graffiti depicting the coffee industry...... And the ever present motorbikes!

​

I meandered home picking up some ingredients for dinner and breakfast tomorrow. Home as darkness fell it was nice to have an evening in more than one room or a tent!

Chat? Yes Please!
https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098

 

[HobbesOnTour]

Day 759, Monday, October 11, 2021, Socorro to Oiba, 30km Total KM 12788
Min meters 1287, Max Meters 1771
Total Climb 761 Total Descent 601
Min Temp 21 Max Temp 32 Ave Temp 27

Damn! But I feel very comfy in Colombia!

If someone had said to me a few years ago that I'd bounce into a Colombian village on a bike, knowing nothing about it, having no accommodation lined up and that I would feel totally at ease I'd have had serious doubts.
Not maybe so much about the bike or even Colombia but the location, or specifically, the type of location and definitely I'd have doubted the feeling at ease part.
Yet, that is exactly what I noted today when I pulled up at the Plaza in Oiba, dismounted, got a coffee, some credit for my phone and sat in the Plaza just soaking up the atmosphere.
I may well be the world's worst tourist but I'm starting to get the hang of this travelling thing.
Mind you, the day I had put in on the saddle just set me up for it!

Very early this shot captured my mood. From being in the middle of the mountains I was now cut off from them

​

Up late by my recent standards I had the supreme luxury of putting on some coffee (the last of my Panamanian stuff - I'm afraid I could be arrested for possession of inferior coffee!) and a decent breakfast of a bacon omelette and a couple of empañadas. All the while listening to some music.

You get a better class of Love Motel in Colombia! Jacuzzis!

​

Then it was packing up (I had been very, very strict with myself - Lord knows the damage I could do to my packing system with so much space in the apartment!), returning the key to a genuinely lovely hostess and hitting the road.

Trying to avoid needless descents and climbing on such steep streets was a challenge with the one way system but I eventually made it onto the main road at the edge of town. It was busy!

Roccado does like his epic backdrops!

​

The truth is I wasn't expecting much from today. After my figaries of the last few days, the excitement, thrill and satisfaction of the small roads and the small places off the beaten track I was disappointed to be back on the main road.
Ha! Dumbass!

What kind of a Dumbass am I at all? (Rhetorical Question - no answers required!)

​

Leaving town behind the traffic, as it always seems to do, lightened and beautiful trees started to appear along the road. To my right I'd get glimpses of the mountains, less vivid than yesterday. And the climbing I had to get done started out relatively gentle. Not bad at all.

Then I came to a Police Checkpoint. I slowed down but I've never been stopped here in Colombia. This time I was. Uh oh.
I fumbled in my pocket for my facemask as the serious looking Policeman came over.
"Where are you from?" he barked. "Ireland", I replied, starting to open my barbag to get my passport.
"How long are you in Colombia?"
"About three weeks", I replied.
"Where are you going?" can be tricky to answer. Do they mean today, in their country or further afield?
Before I could answer he barked again "Bogotá?".
I shook my head and said I was heading for Oiba but my final destination was Argentina - El fin del Mundo.
"Aaahhhhhhh!", he says, a great big smile breaking across his face "To Patagonia!"
Then he was calling over to his colleague to tell him where I was off to and after lots of fistbumps I was on my way!

The amount and variety of vegetation is unbelievable!

​

Truthfully, I wasn't sure where I was headed to. Oiba seemed a bit short, albeit with about 700 meters of climbing. I'm getting a feel for the place now and am reasonably confident of accommodation options being available that don't show up on any of my apps. Today was a follow my nose day and stop when I felt like it.

The climbing became gradually steeper but I didn't mind. Today was tree and vegetation day - there was a huge, wide variety of trees and plants on both sides of the road all reminding me that I'm in a new world. Photos don't do the scenes justice but spinning slowly upwards through Nature's way of telling me that I'm far, far away was invigorating!
A roadie drew slowly up behind me and we had a bit of a chat. He was going faster than me so I increased my pace but couldn't keep it up after about a km and slowly lagged behind. He had been busy telling me that it was getting steeper until I hit the top! Thanks for that!

Gizmo showed the profile well enough and after I'd hit close to 1700 meters it would be up and down for a while until a decent descent would drop me in Oiba.
Close to the top in no hurry and with a few raindrops falling I pulled in for coffee and an empanada. Then I'd another coffee and a sweet pastry. I'd earned them!

In between the multitudes of greens there is a sprinkling of other vibrant colours. The photo doesn't really do the scene justice but rolling down to that corner there was a lovely, warm, orange glow to aim for.

​

The rain held off but was still threatening when I finished off the climb and set about the rolling hills. But what a road!!! Up high I now had a choice of valleys to admire - one on each side! It was pretty glorious! I had been stopping frequently to take photos but it became ridiculous now! No-one will ever want to ride with me in pretty places - we'll make no progress! Stop. Take a photo. Ride 100 meters rinse and repeat. (Earlier it had been 200 meters!)

I took 305 photos today to Oiba!
What I didn't take photos of (yet) are people drying out the coffee beans on the side of the road! This isn't the "Coffee Triangle" of Colombia but once in the mountains there's coffee!
That excited me greatly! Not just as a big fan of coffee but this is something I've read of, another sign that I really am in a different world! All those blogs I used to read? I'm living them now!

​

Up and down, up and down with lots of stops. This is really beautiful country. Consistently beautiful for much of today and most of it was without the sun and lots of dark clouds. On a bright, sunny day I'd probably get nowhere!

That theme continued as I began the descent, still stopping frequently. I was in my element. Roadsigns warning of geological instability and road problems became more frequent and a couple of times I had to take evasive manoeuvres. All part of the fun!

Coming into Oiba I turned off and meandered down more narrow, steep streets to the Plaza. A man looked at me and gave me a smile and a big thumbs up. I was home.

Have I mentioned the variety and quantity of vegetation? Add density to the list!

​

Booking showed a decent rate on a decent hotel around the corner so after checking out the church (Wow!) and soaking up the Plaza I wheeled over. Closed! Hmmmmmm.

I headed back uphill to the main road now in the rain and rolled through town. I passed a couple of rundown hotels rejected because commercial develoment on the ground floor meant long stairs to even get to a reception desk until I saw a sparkly modern hotel. Expecting a high rate I was very pleasantly surprised, and made most welcome. Roccado is sleeping beside the reception desk and I am assured of his safety.

A blissful hot shower and back in the rain to the Plaza. This church needs more time!
There's a wonderful contrast in these towns-on-the-road between the chaos, noise and activity along the road and the calm tranquility off it. The fact that I'm dropping steeply to the Plaza helps leave all the noise behind.
I've been in some amazing Churches and Cathedrals in my time, my all time favourite a little stone and wood small, rural church along the Camino Frances route in Northern Spain.
This reminded me so much of it, but on a much bigger scale. What was especially intriguing was the expert blending of the old and the new.
Built, as is common in these parts, from the local reddish stone, the main parts are of large blocks, the smaller parts, arches, for example, from smaller red bricks. It's very rustic yet elegant. The rough, uneven wooden beams add to the age and simplicity. A very high ceiling, a door at the side combine to offer a heady diffusion of light and coolness.
It is really a tranquil place.
But then there is the altar. It's not simple, at first glance it looks rather ostentatious but on closer inspection it's just gilded wood with statues and some creative lighting - an example of the old and the new.
I stopped taking photos in churches some time ago but I couldn't resist talking one here. A special place.

A kinda typical, run of the mill church for these parts.....(Yes, I know how that reads)

Another example of the old and new was the confession "room". A modern chair, an old wooden "stand" for kneeling on and resting hands in a completely white room with one glass wall, including the (glass) door. Outside another modern chair for the next in line. I've never seen a setup like this.
Similarly, at the back are statues embedded in arches in the back wall. Old, no doubt, they are illuminated by strip lighting inside the arch. Very pretty and very effective.
On leaving, and heading for the main door the light outside looks wonderful and the trees and plants of the Plaza framed in that light through the arched door is such a stunning sight.
A truly special building.

Wow! Just wow!

* No effects, just the "night" mode on my phone - it's really good at reducing the impact of bright light. At the risk of ruining the magic the altar is lit from above by a spotlight, the blue light is from the windows (aided I think by blue lights) and the statues are simply backlit. A wonderful combination of old and new.

Wandering back through the chaos I spotted a bullring - my first in Colombia. I ate at a little restaurant and retired early.
I'm really enjoying these little towns. Maybe I should be putting in longer days but the facts of the matter are that my ass is healing well and I see no point in aggravating it, the scenery deserves to be appreciated properly and so many small places are really quite interesting. I have the great gift of time - I'd be a fool not to use it!

Chat? Yes Please!
https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098

 

[HobbesOnTour]

Day 759, Monday, October 11, 2021, Oiba

Having a wander today it hit me that I'm really not doing justice to these little towns, pictorially.

I've decided to throw up some extra photos (when merited) to give you all a better idea of what I'm seeing.

Enjoy!

A view of the magial church from the front door towards the altar. The light sources kind of mess everything up but the stonework is clear, the ceiling is visible and you can probably make out the smaller red bricks in the arches

The main road passing along the town. It's a ragtag collection of shops, mechanics and food places. The town proper is to the right and downhill

These can be very steep little towns! Perspective can be difficult to achieve with a simple camera. At about the middle of the bottom third of the camera there is a figure, half hidden by the corner of the building who is drying coffee beans on a tarp in the street.

The Park/Plaza. Lovely and green with lots of shade. It's so quiet around in comparison to the chaos above.

A building that caught my eye and a perspective on the streets. A lot of buildings have wooden balconies, something that reminds me of Germany for some reason and of Tyrol.

The Church towers over every other building

The local bike shop! Who needs a sign?

While a lot of the Parks have statues of "famous" people, especially of those involved in Colombia's Independence, it's not unusual to see statues dedicated to local people for local work. Unless I'm greatly mistaken the dedication reads something like " A monument to the illustrious people who, through their efforts raised the profile of our town".

And back to the church..... Approaching the main door and the view of the Park. Impressive doors. It looks better in the real world, honestly!

Chat? Yes Please!
https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098

​

 

[HobbesOnTour]

Day 760, Tuesday, October 12, 2021, Oiba to Vado Real, 29km Total KM 12817
Min meters 1375, Max Meters 1550
Total Climb 497 Total Descent 436
Min Temp 28 Max Temp 39 Ave Temp 33

Now I know what those unstable geology signs really mean!

Those roadsigns warning of geological instability came home to roost last night about midnight. I experienced another earthquake!
Asleep, I suddenly became aware of the bed, then the room, then the whole building swaying! For a second or two I stayed put waiting for alarms to ring or other general sounds of mayhem but nada! I got out of bed and padded to the window looking for where people gathered. What people? No-one was out. Just another night in a little town. By now the swaying had stopped. I stood, feeling foolish then got back into bed. Into bed. It's getting cooler now as I go higher so I actually got under the covers last night.

Wonderful countryside....... But dangerous! It only came home to roost to me today that I'm in the Andes! Feck me! I'm riding my bike in the Andes!

​

With such a disturbance it's not that unusual that I overslept. I sauntered down to the little café attached to the hotel for a morning coffee, then returned to my room, showered, chatted to a friend and went downstairs to pack.
Another Ortlieb problem! This time the bottom clip/lever removed itself! I've no idea why and I suppose I'm lucky it happened when I was loading up as opposed to being on the road. A bit tricky to fix but I got it done.

Time for another coffee then and a little breakfast. I was feeling quite tired and in no hurry to go. The food was good, the coffee great. I didn't even have a definite destination in mind. I'm getting close to the point where I have to make a decision on just where I want to visit in this area before turning off (to avoid Bogotá) then going cross country to join up with a river.
Depending on where I go it may mean some doubling back. Still mulling things over I got back on the road.

At times there were lots of bends, great for wondering what lay around them, at other times pretty straight, just up and down. The road is making eyes at me again!😊

​

It really didn't take long to be charmed (again) by where I was. There is a low level beauty on display pretty much all the time. It's a bit like that old trope of the female librarian with tied up hair who wears glasses. One day she removes the glasses, shakes her hair out and no-one looks at her the same way ever again.

There are layers to the beauty. First up, is the sheer variety of flora on display. There is a distincive "jungle" feel to the countryside with lots of exotic (to me) plants mixed in with the more regular. They can be quite densely packed together giving a variety of shades of green and confusion as to what leaves belong to what trees. My photos don't do justice to what I see.
Then there are more open spaces leading to mountains and clouds. There's tremendous variety even in the hills. Sometimes the surfaces are relatively smooth, at others it's like the hill is suffering from mumps with lots of little hills emerging all over it. As I move along, and in today's case, up and down, the perspective is constantly changing.

Lots of rivers these days too! Some big and powerful, surging through the landscape, others smaller and trickling. Lots of little waterfalls along the road making pleasant noises and sometimes a big one way off in the distance

​

That was today's theme - rolling hills. It seemed like I was constantly going up or down. Lots of interesting curves but some straight sections too, climbing, descending or often both.
Lots of warning signs about road subsidence too and it wasn't unusual to see those familiar with the road veering into the wrong lane for no apparent reason until I got there and saw the surface. Often one section of the road higher than another. Actual steps.

It was very pleasant cycling. Traffic, as always, were happy to make space. Usually in packs I found it easier to pull over, let the convoy past and cycle on as king of the lane. Invariably, there was something interesting to see while I waited.
There were lots of services too if I needed them. I passed several tiny villages.
Dogs were yappy but not a serious threat. On my side it wasn't a big deal if one or two set off after me - barkers not biters - but I got stressed if the dogs on the other side went to give chase. They have no road sense and would get run over in no time.
It was a very laid back, relaxing day.

There always seems to be such a vista of life around a river.

​

I don't know if it's the mountains or the moving south but every day I am getting more and more acknowledgement from traffic - friendly acknowledgement. Today an SUV pulled up beside me as I climbed up and the driver called across to ask me where I was from. "Caramba!" was his response. We carried on a conversation over his mortified looking teenage son as I sweated uphill. Then he lowered the back windows to reveal three more kids in the back who all gave me a cheer before they pulled away.

I told you there was a lot of rivers!

​

Outside a little village I pulled in to a coffee/pastry place for a treat and to duck out of the sun for a while.
I regretted my decision almost immediately as the guy behind the counter was a bit surly, my order had to be entered into the computer (hence the computer was the important thing - I HATE that), I had to pay in advance (a first in Colombia) and finally, Starbucks style, I had to give my name (there was one other table of 3 people for crying out loud!!) - I HATE that too!

I'd ordered a coffee and some rice with milk what we'd know as rice pudding. It was presented well on a little wooden board, the coffee, the rice and some sugar but I had to ask for a spoon to eat the feckin' rice! That kind of thing really bugs me - a fortune spent on a "system" for orders but no thought about what a customer actually needs.

I retired to a shady table and opened up my map to have a look at things. In a flash he was back over to look at the map. I have a couple of general route options drawn in red marker and dots or lines marking off interesting places. He was intrigued and starting asking questions then, as if after getting a jolt of electricity he skipped away and returned with a (large) pocket sized guidebook to Colombia. Brand new and it looked like it had never been opened.
A gift. For me.
Now I felt really bad!
We had a very pleasant chat as he tried to figure out my motivations and process the fact that I'm not really following a plan.
At one stage he asked me how old I am and foolish, foolish me who is currently feeling like a million dollars asked him how old he thought I was.
I won't do that again!
It must be the feckin' beard!

Not for tre first time I'm amazed by the amount, the depth and the variety of green! I feel quite at home

​

I rolled on in no particular hurry. The next town presents an opportunity to continue on this road or to take a smaller road through different countryside. There may even be some camping options at this height but the towns will be smaller and at this stage I'm really enjoying my small Colombian towns. I'll probably stop there for the night and make a decision in the morning.

Tree variety and shade. Sometimes I don't know which I prefer!

​

It's not all lovely views and pleasant riding though. I passed a handful of groups of people today heading north with what seemed all of their possesions in an array of bags, backpacks, a shopping trolley and children's buggies. I'm assuming these are Venezuelans fleeing from the basket case their country has become.
I could be wrong. I read a report recently of a journalist detained by Mexican Immigration for a few days and placed in a "camp" with other illegal immigrants in the south of México. As well as the usual mix of Central Americans there were Haitians and a surprising number from Africa. They cross to Brazil and make their way up through Central America, passing through the Darrien Gap in an attempt to get to the USA. The Haitians and Africans, in particular, have it hard because they have no Spanish.
For all the talk of immigration whether it be the US or Europe it takes a special kind of bravery, commitment or desperation (delete as appropriate) to make such a journey.
An image of a man pushing a child's buggy full of plastic bags of what seemed to be clothes, a child, no more than 6 or 7 walking beside him while his wife walked ahead carrying a toddler is going to stay with me for a while.

The small, simple yet pretty Plaza (at the side of the road) with the modern church behind

​

I rolled in and through the town. The first hotel I tried I was told to return in a couple of hours, the second said no but the third explained why he couldn't give me a room - there was no water in the town! He suggested and gave me directions to a place outside town that did have water. A very nice man.
I rolled out and got a nicely cheap room, had a cold (mountain water cold!) shower and wandered back into the little town. This is pretty much spread along the road, even the teeny tiny plaza and the rather deceptive church (ugly on the outside, cool and calming on the inside).

I'd a bite to eat and then back to the hotel.

I don't know what they are but I just love those yellow trees! There is never more than one or two, swamped by regular, green trees. There's something very striking about them. The sun can mess with photos like these but at least I got to catch a splash of orange too!

​

Sitting on the balcony of the hotel (that makes it sound far more grand than it actually was!) it was interesting to see the traffic, especially the trucks, rumbling past.
Most vehicles, but especially the trucks are lit up in incredible ways. There's no rhyme or reason to it and certainly no respect for regulations (if any exist).
I see it during the day on the road but it's only at night that the full impact becomes clear.
Flashing lights of all colours, including white, in all locations - front, rear and side. It's not unusual for cars or motorbikes to light below them in a neon colour giving the impression they are being highlighted and moved by some kind of alien tractor beam. It's one thing on a two lane road but in larger urban areas it can be very confusing with all the competing light from buildings, signs, traffic lights and the sheer density of traffic. Then throw heavy rain into the mix! Don't think I'll ever drive at night in the Latin World!

The road goes on forever, the party never ends (Robert Earl Keen)

​

Chat? Yes Please!
https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098

 

[HobbesOnTour]

Day 761, Wednesday, October 13, 2021, Vado Real to Moniquirá, 52km Total KM 12869
Min meters 1374, Max Meters 1729
Total Climb 1183 Total Descent 842
Min Temp 21 Max Temp 40 Ave Temp 30

As sweet as sugar cane!

It had been drizzling lightly yesterday evening as I had wandered around. Not heavy enough to make me wet and it's too warm to bother with a rain jacket. That changed later when it seemed that someone upstairs slowly started turning a tap. The rain slowly increased in intensity until it was pouring down. It seemed to be raining for most of the night although tonight there were no earthquakes to wake me!

A cloudy, moody start to the day. But pleasantly cool!

​

I was awake early enough but availed of a decent internet signal to post an update here then got myself organised. The two ladies who had checked me in very kindly offered me coffee, gratefully accepted.
I couldn't make up my mind which way to go today. I could continue on 45(A) to Barbosa and turn off there or I could take a backroad that would have me in the place I want to get to in a few days.
I'd looked last night and couldn't make up my mind. Nor this morning. The backroad is always more appealing but it commits me to them for a few days and there are precious few services along them. The main road gives me more places to stop. There's going to be lots of climbing so places to stop are important.
I took the main road.

A 200 meter climb from the get go has a way of kicking the system into life! Mountains were bathed in clouds, the morning was cool and traffic (on my side) was light. The road was interesting with lots of twists and turns, the vegetation was as varied as yesterday and the unstable geology signs appeared regularly.

The pretty little town of Santana. You wouldn't think much of it sticking to the main road but turn off, drop down and I'm in real, rural Colombia. The lazy part of me does object, though, to the extra (and often extreme) climbing I have to do

​

I'd decided to pull in at the next town, Santana, for a spot of breakfast. Built along the road, the town centre is well below the Plaza. The Plaza is bright, open and has statues of people labouring scattered around. This is sugar cane country and they seem to be proud of it.
A little before the town I had my first encounter with sugar cane when a couple of men were driving half a dozen ponies loaded down with freshly cut cane. The animals were lively, skipping over and back across the road and traffic behaved impeccably, coming to a halt, waiting and only moving when they could give the animals lots of space. Not a horn was heard.
I stopped at a little coffee shop for a coffee and empañada. A very nervous and shy girl was looking after me. She squealed in horror when I carried the coffee and pastry in one hand convinced I'd drop them!

The sun is out now and the countryside has donned its beautiful garb

​

I saw the Police pull up and start frisking a group of young men hanging around a shop but other than that it seemed like a normal small town early in the morning.

Refuelled I rejoined the road. It didn't take long for me to have my next sugar cane experience - harvesting! 13 men, six ponies and a truck in a field. There were men chopping down the cane, then chopping it to size to be loaded onto a special saddle on the pony. Then, with a slap on the ass the laden pony was sent up a short, steep hill where he was unloaded and the cane thrown into a truck. A guy was in the truck packing it tight and high. I was amused to see the ponies taking the long way back for their next load. That's a lot of labour!

I was heading generally downwards but would have to regain all the height I was losing. Frustrating! The sun was out now having burned off all the clouds so I was getting hot! I missed turning off for another small town when I misread Gizmo and thought I could take the next, shorter turn. I could have but I would have needed one of the ponies from earlier it was that overgrown and steep!

Sugarcane harvesting! Like back in North Carolina watching the cotton harvest I was captivated! Such another world! A real world!

​

Reaching Barbosa with over 800 meters climbing under my belt I thought that this would be my destination for the day. I took the long way around to get a good look and bounced up and down rutted, broken streets to a very bare, bleak and disappointing Plaza. Nothing spoke to me at all. I did a lap. Then another. I pulled in for a snack and a cold drink to receive Panamanian (and a bit of Costa Rican) service - totally disinterested. That made up my mind! On to the next town!

Such a contrast! This is Santana, the Plaza had several statues dedicated to traditional, local labour (this is sugar cane harvesting). Barbosa was ugly in comparison with little to boast of. I do like how many statues commemorate "normal" things and "normal" people

​

I bought some ciggies from a store and was having one at the side of the Plaza when two guys approached me and positioned themselves at either end of the bike. My Spidey senses tingled as I positioned myself at the saddle. The chap at the rear fired questions at me yet didn't seem in the least curious while his buddy moved in and out at the front of the bike, saying nothing. I had the distinct impression that they were trying to distract me. I carry my small money in a little pouch that lives in the front pocket of my barbag. After my purchase it went back in.
I was civil, answered the questions but made it very clear I was watching the quiet one. When I was leaving I gave them the completely wrong direction for my next stop.
A crazy downhill street and I was on a different road heading out if town.

It's possible I'll get bored of such scenes, but I doubt it. The sun is hot but it really brings out the beauty in everything

​

I was taking a new road, 62, it was a bit narrower than 45(A) it was also rougher and I had the idea that the traffic was a little impatient, or maybe it was just a reaction to my unpleasant encounter.

I now had another climb that started off gentle enough allowing me to put some space between me and Barbosa. I find that often on the bike that a bit of distance from something unpleasant can really help.

There was only about 10km to the next town and I was under no pressure. The big climb lasted about 4km and then it was up and down.
It was ok going although the traffic seemed a tad unfriendly. Passing a sign for a rockfall I didn't pay too much attention - I've been seeing those signs since México. Rounding a bend I heard a sudden loud noise above me and suddenly realised it sounded a lot like a large amount of rock falling! Well, I took off like a rocket, my legs hammering my head swiveling trying to see what was going on. With no traffic coming up behind me I headed for the middle of the road. With a wider perspective and clearing the bend I spied a quarry on my right and some contraption that seemed designed to capture and funnel rock to the ground. I had heard a rockfall, but a controlled one! Never a dull moment!😀

There's a wildness that is very appealing

​

Osmand had plotted a route that brought me right around the town before entering it which seemed odd to me so I had it plot another route in bike mode that took a side road into town. That was the option I took, bouncing off the main road and on a pleasant, quiet road into town. At least as far as a bridge. The bridge was gone and a crew were busy preparing to build another. No way across! A young guy was very apologetic explaining that a pedestrian could get over but pointing at the bike he just shook his head.
No matter, I bounced back to the main road and was treated to a wonderful view of the town from up high, the distinctive twin towers of the unusual church being the main feature.

There's a real "jungle feeling" that just fires me up

​

I followed Gizmo around, turned into the town, passed the Market and eventually landed up in the Plaza.
I got a coffee from a very pleasant street vendor then was accosted, pleasantly, by a guy who wants to take a bike on an adventure too. I asked his name but it was something unusual and I've forgotten it already but it was a very pleasant chat. He wanted a photo so I can't really say no and then a female friend wanted a photo too! I'm popular in Colombia!

Layers and layers of mountains..... What's not to like?

​

I had another coffee and set off to look for a hotel. And the church. There was no church on this plaza making me think there was another. There was indeed! A lovely planted one. I'd asked my new friends about hotels but they were a bit vague. iOverlander had one but it was a bit out of the centre. One was way too expensive, another closed, another had stairs from the front door but following a sign down some backstreets I found a bargain of a new hotel!

My first view of Moniquirá. I was impressed! It's the real advantage of touring in the mountains - village views. Easier, perhaps from up above but I have find memories of my Spanish Camino trip and seeing small villages on high and slowly winding up to explore them

​

A hot shower and I was out to explore this little town before the sun went down.

Chat? Yes Please!
https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098

 

[HobbesOnTour]

Day 761, Wednesday, October 13, 2021, Moniquirá

Interesting buildings that overhang the river that cuts through the centre

The first, churchless Plaza that I visited. Unlike the main Plaza it stayed vibrant and alive after the sun went down. As well as the playground there were several stalls selling food and drinks. Kids played on bikes weaving around, others played football and a man with three daughters from knee height to chest height was playing a game of catch. A lovely vibe

This one's for Willie! A bar called Texas!

Every town or village so far has had a basketball court/football pitch, often with at least one stand for spectators. This one is enclosed. I peeked in to see a group of kids practicing archery! The next morning it was being used for Covid vaccines.

An interesting Star Warsesque statue in the Plaza

Another statue.....

I really liked this one. I could find nothing to say what it represents

The main Plaza in daylight with the distinctive church behind the trees. Full of life and pleasant until the sun went down.
On arrival I was approached by a chap, a bit over-friendly. There was no harm to him.

The other Plaza in daylight. It was alive and stayed so long after the sun went down

The fabulous church which put me in mind of Germany. Inside was completely different too. No wooden beams, all plastered stone. An elaborate altar. As much as I liked the exterior the interior left me cold

​

Chat? Yes Please!
https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098

 

[HobbesOnTour]

Day 762, Thursday, October 14, 2021, Moniquirá to Santa Sofia, 26km Total KM 12895
Min meters 1669, Max Meters 2399
Total Climb 976 Total Descent 256
Min Temp 17 Max Temp 43 Ave Temp 28

Only 26km??? Who cares?!

The hotel was new, cheap and had hot water (the wifi password never showed up!) but I had a terrible night's sleep. An internal room, the only window opened to a corridor meaning every sound from any other room was clearly audible and an open door at the end of the corridor let the pumping music from a few doors down penetrate the building as effectively as the earthquake the other night. I'm pretty good at blocking out noise like music but the proximity of conversation (and kids playing) got to me. I awoke tired.

I got up and headed to the first Plaza I arrived at yesterday, passing by the quiet main Plaza. Coffee from one stand, juice from another and some chicken pastries were my breakfast as I sat and watched and thought. There was little to see so early in the morning so I spent my time thinking.
It's strange. Costa Rica had few route options and Panama practically none - here's a road, use it. But Colombia throws all kinds of options at me!
Villa de Leyva is my next destination, another suggestion from my Colombian amiga. I could go direct today on a smaller road or continue on the highway 62 which I was on yesterday, stay in another small town and turn off for Villa de Leyva on another small road.
I wasn't enjoying 62 that much yesterday and I reckon the direct route will have less traffic. It might be no harm to arrive in Villa Leyva on a Thursday rather than a Friday as I understand it's a bit of a tourist trap. It's certainly not cheap!

I decided to take 62, got on the bike and pointed towards the main road. I could hear the traffic so I stopped, fired up Osmand and took the small, direct route!

It didn't take all that long until I was above the town and out in the country. I try to limit the road shots I use here but some days .......

​

It was by now after 9am, late for me but I really enjoy my breakfast in the Plaza watching people. It's a very pleasant experience to give myself the chance to soak everything up. I tell myself I'll pay for it later with the heat but I didn't come here to beat the heat, I came to see what it's like.

A bit of bouncing and climbing to get out of town but then, just like that, I was out in the country. I had a small road, decent surface and either interesting views or lines of trees, plants snd bushes. And such variety! I also had a hefty climb! Pretty much 700 meters without a break.
What I didn't have was traffic! Practically none! The usual motorbikes, a handful of cars and trucks were rarer than hen's teeth.

This was a pretty steep uphill bend....... But that view!!!

​

With a sky rapidly clearing the heat was rising but there were plenty of roadside trees so lots of shade. I stopped frequently for shade and photos. The plant life was incredibly varied, colourful and very interesting. I'm no botanist but I don't need to know the name of a tree or bush to be able to appreciate it. Besides, so often they are crammed so tightly together that I think even a botanist would struggle to identify the individual plants and trees.

Look at that for plant variety!

​

Two girls passed on a scooter slowing down to cheer me on, big beaming smiles on both. In fact, smiles were the order of the day. Motorbikes slowed to wave, people walking and those working on the side of the road waved and smiled. Pulling in to a store (probably the last for a while) to top up my water I was engaged by an old chap passing the morning with his friend. A group of roadworkers taking a break were there too and another couple of guys. In heavily accented English he asked me lots of questions, listening carefully to each answer. I replied in Spanish. It was very pleasant shooting the breeze at a little roadside place in the mountains!

When I didn't have a view of open country I had scenes like this!

​

Onwards and upwards, slow but steady. As the sun rises the shade becomes less but on such a quiet road I could use either side as suited me. Some dogs were an annoyance, waiting until I had passed before setting off in hot pursuit. Invariably smaller dogs. One, in particular, really annoyed me, watching me go past then setting off after me yapping like a mad thing. He'd stop, wait for me to gain some distance then repeat.
I came across magic trees along the roadside! No idea what they are and they're difficult to photograph but the trunk and branches appear dead, a silvery, white, grey colour. However, small, delicate vibrant red leaves spout from the branches, a beautiful, vivid contrast to the "dead" tree. I was captivated!

The "Magic Tree". To all intents and purposes, dead, or so it seemed to me, moss and a deathly white shade covering it, yet these remarkable red leaves in vivid contrast

​

There were a few places where roadworks were going on but on such a quiet road they were easy to manoeuvre around. With about half of the climbing done parts of the sky were becoming ominously angry and thunder started rolling. In the clear air there was a sound, a crack, like a single gunshot and then a low rumble that gradually got louder and louder. I had the mental image of an avalanche being triggered. That's normally the kind of thing that speeds a cyclist up but not today!
What did speed me up was a sudden horrible thought - I'd left my charger and two cables behind in the room!! Feck! Feck! Triple Feck!
The only socket had been at the head end of the bed, below matress level, invisible for a last look around. The white cable was lost in the white sheet and the other cable had been hanging down.
I was really annoyed but with 350 meters of climbing on the clock I wasn't going back.

When I wasn't agog at the road I had countryside like this to amuse me.

​

Rounding a slow bend a woman waiting with some other people started a conversation and finished by wishing me a great journey. The thunder wasn't going away and while a part of the sky was always bright blue and sunny, the dark clouds were mounting.
At one stage, large raindrops started to fall. I could feel them but I could also see them plopping down on the dusty road - random big dots appearing before me. A short descent and they disappeared but returned as I started to climb again.
Near the top of the climb I pulled in for a coffee and a bite but had to do with just coffee. A little shelter encouraged me to wait to see what was happening with the rain. Nothing as it turned out.

Another beautiful tree. Today was a slow photo day - I only took 146!

​

I set off again. Pretty soon it was the same - drops falling. Not rain as such, but the drops were big and wet!
Another coffeebreak at a filling station and the drops disappeared but the sky was looking ominous.
Rather than follow the road I detoured through Santa Sofia, a small, steeply built village with two churches and two plazas.
Enjoying the view the thought ocurred to me just what was I doing? Villa de Leyva is very expensive and I'm planning to camp. There is going to be rain - there's no avoiding it - so why not put up here for the night?
There was a hotel sign on the Plaza (even though the actual hotel was half a km away!) so I enquired and took another cheap room!
I had a bite to eat, hung out in the Plaza over a coffee and headed up to the hotel as darkness and rain was falling. It took me a few attempts to find the damn place!

Santa Sofia - a town of two churches! The first is becoming a ruin, locked, with broken windows, the bottom is, well, I don't know! I couldn't bring myself to enter!

​

Chat? Yes Please!
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