Tips on looking after a road bike

[LemonJuice]

I want to really look after my bikes in the future so I want to ask everyone on here a few questions.

What should I use to clean the bike after every ride or every other ride? Is warm water washing up liquid okay? Is warm water and soap okay? Do I really need to spend £20 on cleaning products? I know that it’s best to avoid using a hose.

If I get caught out in the rain or any other bad weather, once I get home home should I dry the bike with a tea towel or something?

How do I make sure my gears are properly indexed and avoid the gears from jumping? Is the latter a general wear and tear issue that needs to be fixed every now and then?

Thanks.

 

[carpenter]

I wouldn't use washing up liquid on my bike (nor car), as salt is used as a thickening agent in it.
I do use wash and wax car cleaners on my bikes - cheap stuff and 5 litres lasts quite a while.

I also, occasionally, use a carnauba wax on the paintwork - I use this:

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/HARLY-WA...213958&hash=item563aebeffe:g:mc0AAOSwRgJXg4f2

Fairly expensive, but really good and goes a long way. I have had my tin for over three years (use once or twice a year on my car) and only bought it because I hadn't put the lid on my previous tin firmly enough and it had dried out.


I am not sure what is special about bike cleaners that justifies some of the prices asked

I also use my hose on a fine spray setting to loosen dirt and rinse off after the wash, I know that I shouldn't, but can't help myself!

 

[DCLane]

I use baby wipes, GT85 and a ceramic wax lubricant for the chain. Fairly simple but that's all.

If it's really dirty I might give a bike a light wash with a hose, but it's rare.

 

[carpenter]

ceramic wax lubricant

Do you mean this:

View: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Finish-Line-Ceramic-Cycling-Lubricant/dp/B079P59C4G

Do you just use a cloth to apply (or paint brush?)
I have been looking for something for my chain - I used an oily rag at the moment

 

[Spiderweb]

I use micro fibre cloths sprayed with a little Mr Muscle glass cleaner on wheels and frame etc. It is especially good for matte paintwork, it is great for keeping matte finishes clean but not shiny.
For the chain again I use micro fibre cloths sprayed with either GT85 or WD40 to clean the chain and as above, Finish Line ceramic wax lube is the best I’ve used, dot each roller with some, spin the pedals a bit and after 5 mins or so wipe of excess lube.

 

[HLaB]

I vary my cleaning regime depending on the weather and riding conditions. I use ceramic wet lube which will last for ages if its good, a drop per roller then wiping of the external link excess.
My bike only got light wipes with baby wipes in between two proper washes in April/May but if it remains wettish in June it'll perhaps be more often and immediately after a ride if its a wet/mucky one. In winter its always cleaned after a ride. Since Christmas I've got a portable pressure washer and use that to wash of muc off bike cleaner (particularly the drive train). Then I use a baby wipe or two to finish it off. Previously I just used more babywipes and took longer. Time will tell if or not the washer is a good idea. I tend to feather the trigger and stick away from seals which could be damaged by a washer.

There's lots of good videos on youtube but when I have to fettle as per one of those vids I get it shifting good between two cogs. If it doesn't then shift good across the other gears it hints at another problem (cables commonly or occasionally levers).

 

[DCLane]

Do you mean this: View: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Finish-Line-Ceramic-Cycling-Lubricant/dp/B079P59C4G

Do you just use a cloth to apply (or paint brush?)
I have been looking for something for my chain - I used an oily rag at the moment

That's the one. After cleaning the chain I apply direct and clean the excess off with a cloth. Have a search on here for the 'Mickle method'

 

[PaulSB]

No reason at all why one should not use a hose pipe. If your bike can't take being squirted with a hose don't risk riding in the rain.

 

[mustang1]

My priority is keeping the drivetrain clean and lubed, and the brakes/brake lines etc.

The rest of the bike gets a wash whenever it's needed, nothing religious. Usually using car wash soap. On a couple of occasions I took it to the car wash and used the hose to apply hot wax just for fun and ensured I do not spray anything directly into anything that has bearings or moving parts.

 

[Fab Foodie]

Bikes are designed to be used outside in all weathers. Whilst of course they are our pride and joy, they only need minimal TLC to keep running and looking good for decades.

Mudguards with flaps really help keep a lot if crap from drive-trains, brakes, head-tube for all year all weather use.

Oily frame bits Derailiurs Chainrings etc get wiped down with white spirit/paintbrush.
Bike gets hosed-down, washed with warm water with Fairy liquid (the salt thing is absolute bollocks), an old sock over your hand is a good cloth and a paintbrush helps get into nooks and crannies. Hose down, shake dry. Put away. If feeling generous Mr Sheen keeps it shinier for longer and easier to clean next time.
Chain gets wiped with a white-spirit rag to remove excess crud and then Mickled - lube/wipe/lube/wipe. I use finish line green as it last longer between lubes.

Wet-wipes are great but have stopped using them for environmental reasons-I’ve plenty of rags.

 

[carpenter]

...........washed with warm water with Fairy liquid (the salt thing is absolute bollocks)..........

Proctor and Gamble ingredient list for "Fairy liquid" - bold my highlight:

Aqua
• Sodium laureth sulphate
• Alcohol denat
• Lauramine oxide
• C9-11 pareth-8
• Sodium chloride
• 1,3-Cyclohexanedimethanamine
• PPG (polypropylene glycols)
• Dimethyl aminoethyl methecrylate/hydroxyproply acrylate copolymer cirate
• Parfum
• Geraniol
• Limonene
• Colourant

I used to carry out research using emulsions (polymerisation of PVC mainly). The salt is added to adjust the viscosity of the detergent.

 

[rogerzilla]

Don't wash bikes used in the dry, just give them a "bed bath" with a damp cloth. BB30/PF30 bottom brackets don't like to get wet. If you ride in winter, smear anything that could rust with vaseline before they start salting the roads, and wipe it off in April.

Most "dry" chain lubes are pretty ineffectual. Finish Line wet is very reliable and doesn't make strings all over the back wheel.

 

[figbat]

Proctor and Gamble ingredient list for "Fairy liquid" - bold my highlight:

Aqua
• Sodium laureth sulphate
• Alcohol denat
• Lauramine oxide
• C9-11 pareth-8
• Sodium chloride
• 1,3-Cyclohexanedimethanamine
• PPG (polypropylene glycols)
• Dimethyl aminoethyl methecrylate/hydroxyproply acrylate copolymer cirate
• Parfum
• Geraniol
• Limonene
• Colourant

I used to carry out research using emulsions (polymerisation of PVC mainly). The salt is added to adjust the viscosity of the detergent.

Good input. However, is the presence of sodium chloride actually going to corrode anything when used at the very low dosages that would be present in a foamy water solution? One which is applied and then almost immediately rinsed off? One that also contains a number of surfactant species?

 

[carpenter]

I don't know to be honest, just that I would rather not - contaminants have a surprising ability to hang around 😊
Also given the position of the sodium chloride in the listing, about midway, I don't think that it is a very low dose in the product.

 

[vickster]

I don't know to be honest, just that I would rather not - contaminants have a surprising ability to hang around 😊
Also given the position of the sodium chloride in the listing, about midway, I don't think that it is a very low dose in the product.

Google reckons around 5%. Not a lot in a couple of drops then?