Tubeless set-up joy

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Pale Rider

Legendary Member
Ghetto tubeless refers to using an inner tube and cutting the excess of when fitted to standard rims, Gorrilla tape is used instead of branded rim tape usually in timeless ready rims, is my understanding.

I think the idea is to snip the tube lengthwise so you use the tube valve as 'tubeless' and part of the tube material to seal the rim bed, possibly with tape to hold it in place.
 

Pale Rider

Legendary Member
Yes I am talking rubbish.

We are putting sealant in Continental tubes and it is working.

Your Hunt set-up was proper tubeless, although it seems not to have worked too well.

My brother got his bike shop to (attempt) to install tubeless in his bike, but for whatever reason they couldn't get it to seal, so tubeless just not working can happen.

My tubeless set-up got off to a slightly iffy start in that the rear wheel would only hold about 25 psi, it's a balloon tyre so that was acceptable but I prefer a bit more.

A sealant top up - surprising how much soaked into the carcass - and the tyre is now holding pressure as well as if it had an inner tube.
 

Venod

Eh up
Location
Yorkshire
I think the idea is to snip the tube lengthwise so you use the tube valve as 'tubeless' and part of the tube material to seal the rim bed, possibly with tape to hold it in place.
Yes snip the tube lengthwise, trim the excess of after fitting tyre, no tape required, smaller size inner tube used to make it a snug fit, done it a few times before I had the proper rims.
 

IBarrett

Über Member
Location
Nottingham
For those who have Hunt wheels and Schwalbe One tyres - a note of caution;
If you plan to carry an inner tube for emergencies please make sure you carry an excellent set of tyre levers and know how to remove the valve from stem so you can push the stem back in to remove it from the wheel.
I just had a puncture in one of my wheels which didn’t seal. It took 3of us to remove and refit the tyre - it made Gatorskins look like putty - and I broke one of my tyre levers. A friend had a set of Park Tools levers which worked brilliantly so I can recommend them.
And we wrecked the valve getting it out.
 

Venod

Eh up
Location
Yorkshire
Broke a spoke on the MTB and the only replacement I had was a different nipple thread size, so I had to strip the tyre off , the bit of Stan's tape I had wasn't long enough, so got some Gorrilla tape from LBS, it was OK to put on, the tyre went on first time with just the track pump, I sloshed the Peaty sealant around and went for a ride all good, but this morning the tyre was flat, so I pumped it up and tested it with soapy water, a slight leak at the valve and rim, so off with the tyre and the Gorrilla tape, what a pain in the neck, the tape leaves a sticky residue that took 30 mins to clean off, so I wont be using that again.

Sent for some of this tape which is supposed to be the same as Stans

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Tubeless-Rim-Tape-for-Cycles/263255199300?ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:blush:T&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649

Also sent for some of this stuff.

91132-316773_1_square.jpg


Effetto Mariposa Caffelatex Sealant - 1000ml
1000ml

I also had run out of Stans fluid so put some Peaty stuff in from LBS, but I am going to give the above a try.
 
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Domus

Guru
Location
Sunny Radcliffe
My new Ribble has come with Mavic rims and Mavic tubeless tyres. From watching a couple of YouTube videos it seems matching tyres to rims has been the biggest problem up to now. Different manufacturers tolerances mean you could buy a "small" rim and a "large" tyre and vice versa. So either it won't seal or you can't get the thing on. The Mavics, from video evidence only, seem a doddle to fit.
 
Yes, run tubeless on MTB, road and current all-road/gravel/whatever bike. Have done the ghetto thing with non-tubeless rims and tyres and had decent success. Also gone fully tubeless compatible with the most recent set of Hunt wheels and Gravel King SKs. In my experience, besides doing your homework on what rim/tyre combos work (most will eventually with a bit of work), the two key factors are choosing a decent sealant and making sure you've a source of high volume and high(ish) pressure air to lock the bead in.
 

Red17

Veteran
Location
South London
Tried to set up my cross bike tubeless last weekend but can't get the tyres to seat (pan racer gravel tyres on tubeless ready kinesis wheels). Tried a track pump and double foot pump but no use.

Was going to go down to the local PFS and use their pump, but realised I will be stuffed if they puncture out on the trails.

Any foolproof tips to seat the things before I give up?
 

Milkfloat

An Peanut
Location
Midlands
Tried to set up my cross bike tubeless last weekend but can't get the tyres to seat (pan racer gravel tyres on tubeless ready kinesis wheels). Tried a track pump and double foot pump but no use.

Was going to go down to the local PFS and use their pump, but realised I will be stuffed if they puncture out on the trails.

Any foolproof tips to seat the things before I give up?

Check the tape - maybe add another layer if required. After a lot of faffing and high speed pumping, I bought one of these https://www.tredz.co.uk/.Beto-CJA001S-Tubeless-Air-Tank-Inflator_118340.htm and am now the go to guy locally. A proper air compressor is also a good shout. I have yet to be beaten.

However, I will also say, once you have got them to seat once properly, they are really easy to reseat. You won't have too many problems in the trails as they are unliekly to unseat themselves. If you have a failure and use use a worm/anchovy, you should just be able to reinflate normally (I use CO2, so it is easy). If the failure is really bad, then you will be using a tyre boot and also a tube anyway.
 

steveindenmark

Legendary Member
I have been using Schwalbe One tubeless for the past couple of months and they cut up very quickly. So much so that I am using tubes with them now.
 
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