Tubeless Tyres.

[Wyn21]

Hey

I’ve recently purchased a Propel 2 Advanced wth Tubless Tyres.

Has anybody had any issues, recommended ?

Thanks

 

[Elybazza61]

Don't over-inflate (85psi sh for 25c's),keep the sealant topped up and don't use Stan's sealant(use effetto,orange or the new finish line sealant).

Also get some gel super glue for filling cuts and some 'worms' to repair bigger cuts.

Some good guides and videos here;

https://thecycleclinic.co.uk/pages/tech-page

https://thecycleclinic.co.uk/blogs/news/tubeless-tyre-road-side-repair

https://thecycleclinic.co.uk/blogs/news/living-with-tubeless-tyres

 

[Racing roadkill]

Tubeless tyres are a bad idea for a leisure road bike cyclist, in my experience. They are great from a performance and handling point of view, but they can be a massive pain in the rump, if you get a decent sized puncture, and have to sort it roadside. Tubless are a godsend on a mountain bike, but a liability on a road bike.

 

[gom]

Tubless are a godsend on a mountain bike, but a liability on a road bike.

In my experience, punctures are more common per unit distance/time off road, so why are tubeless better? I’ve never used tubeless, so basing this on uninformed prejudice, but it seems unlikely. What do they give a mountain bike?

 

[Jody]

if you get a decent sized puncture, and have to sort it roadside. Tubless are a godsend on a mountain bike, but a liability on a road bike.

You still have to put a tube in either way with a big p* so why are they more of a PITA than tubes?

 

[Racing roadkill]

In my experience, punctures are more common per unit distance/time off road, so why are tubeless better? I’ve never used tubeless, so basing this on uninformed prejudice, but it seems unlikely. What do they give a mountain bike?

The handling advantages are much more noticeable / helpful on a mountain bike, in my experience, I didn’t / don’t use the off road bikes for anything like the proportion of mileage / time that I ride the road bikes, and get proportionately less issues with punctures. Also on a typical mountain bike type ride, I’d be only a relatively short distance to the car, where I’d have a decent track pump / air charger ( which is one of the biggest problems with fixing a significant tubless puncture ‘on the fly’) and kit to sort out any issues. Getting the tubeless tyres to re seat satisfactorily after a major patch job, is a sod of a job, if you have only got a mini pump.

 

[Will Spin]

If you cycle a lot of miles then tubeless are great in my experience. The roads round here are terrible for punctures, since I fitted tubeless puncture related stops have reduced to almost zero. You don't have to put a tube in for a big puncture, that's a myth. Most punctures sort themselves out without you even knowing that you have one. If you do a get a big one that fails to seal then the tyre worms work well.

 

[Milkfloat]

Tubeless tyres are a bad idea for a leisure road bike cyclist, in my experience. They are great from a performance and handling point of view, but they can be a massive pain in the rump, if you get a decent sized puncture, and have to sort it roadside. Tubless are a godsend on a mountain bike, but a liability on a road bike.

Utter bollocks!

 

[greenmark]

You can get pretty much all the benefits from tubeless by running latex tubes - almost as low rolling resistance and pretty good puncture resistance, and they're almost as light.

The main advantages are latex is cheaper and less messy than tubeless. The other advantage is that you have more choice of tyre. There aren't yet that many road tubeless options and some of them are known not to be that durable.
Disadvantages of latex to tubeless is that you need to pump up your tyres before every ride. Latex are also more difficult to fit than butyl tubes and if you don't fit them properly you could get a blow-out. So it's recommended you wear ear plugs when you first pump them up and over-pressure them as well.

As for the need on road vs off-road, tubeless is fantastic off-road because you can run much lower pressures (below 30psi) so you can roll over rocks and no longer need to worry about pinch flats. That's not so important for road because the recommended tyre pressures to minimise rolling resistance will still be over 70psi, if not more. Pinch flats are not an issue.

 

[gom]

The handling advantages are much more noticeable / helpful on a mountain bike, in my experience, I didn’t / don’t use the off road bikes for anything like the proportion of mileage / time that I ride the road bikes, and get proportionately less issues with punctures. Also on a typical mountain bike type ride, I’d be only a relatively short distance to the car, where I’d have a decent track pump / air charger ( which is one of the biggest problems with fixing a significant tubless puncture ‘on the fly’) and kit to sort out any issues. Getting the tubeless tyres to re seat satisfactorily after a major patch job, is a sod of a job, if you have only got a mini pump.

That’s interesting, but I think we must do quite different types of mountain biking (and I’m probably too nervous to notice the difference). Only time I’ve had to be rescued (I think & touch wood) was with an unfixable mountain bike puncture, at least 15miles from the car. Too far & cold & wet to walk that!

 

[Ajax Bay]

Tubeless tyres are a bad idea for a leisure road bike cyclist, in my experience. They are great from a performance and handling point of view, but they can be a massive pain in the rump, if you get a decent sized puncture, and have to sort it roadside. Tubless are a godsend on a mountain bike, but a liability on a road bike.

Utter bollocks!

Would you care to say which bits of rr's opinion (based on experience) is "utter bollox" and why?
Having asked that, I've not had a "decent sized puncture" in a (clincher) road tyre for 25,000+km. But I did ride back from Penzance (250k into a 600) with a guy who'd gone tubeless and had taken a chunk (somehow) out of his sidewall. He resorted to a tube.

 

[Milkfloat]

There are plenty of threads on the tubeless debate - go search on them. The main issue with tubeless is that a big tear is harder to repair than on a normal clincher because it can be harder to get the tyre off and back on. The pro's are better rolling resistance, very, very few punctures that require removing a tyre or even stopping at all and a more comfortable ride. Under no circumstances can they be described as 'a liability on a road bike'.

 

[Racing roadkill]

There are plenty of threads on the tubeless debate - go search on them. The main issue with tubeless is that a big tear is harder to repair than on a normal clincher because it can be harder to get the tyre off and back on. The pro's are better rolling resistance, very, very few punctures that require removing a tyre or even stopping at all and a more comfortable ride. Under no circumstances can they be described as 'a liability on a road bike'.

There speaks someone who doesn’t do big mileage in bad weather, on tubeless tyres. Best to ignore advice from these sorts of people in my experience.

 

[Racing roadkill]

That’s interesting, but I think we must do quite different types of mountain biking (and I’m probably too nervous to notice the difference). Only time I’ve had to be rescued (I think & touch wood) was with an unfixable mountain bike puncture, at least 15miles from the car. Too far & cold & wet to walk that!

I guess that’s just perspective though, different strokes for different folks and all that

 

[Racing roadkill]

You can get pretty much all the benefits from tubeless by running latex tubes - almost as low rolling resistance and pretty good puncture resistance, and they're almost as light.

The main advantages are latex is cheaper and less messy than tubeless. The other advantage is that you have more choice of tyre. There aren't yet that many road tubeless options and some of them are known not to be that durable.
Disadvantages of latex to tubeless is that you need to pump up your tyres before every ride. Latex are also more difficult to fit than butyl tubes and if you don't fit them properly you could get a blow-out. So it's recommended you wear ear plugs when you first pump them up and over-pressure them as well.

As for the need on road vs off-road, tubeless is fantastic off-road because you can run much lower pressures (below 30psi) so you can roll over rocks and no longer need to worry about pinch flats. That's not so important for road because the recommended tyre pressures to minimise rolling resistance will still be over 70psi, if not more. Pinch flats are not an issue.

At last, someone else speaking sense / with obvious experience of the subject matter.