Tubless tyres

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Does anyone have an evidenced based view of TL robustness?
“evidence based view” eh? I ride tens of thousands of miles a year, in all conditions, and I’ve found tubeless road tyres to be a complete liability. They are a complete nightmare to work with when you get a big cut, and even if you get a puncture that does seal, because of the higher pressure to volume on a typical road tyre, you’ll find yourself down to 40 or 50 psi ( in my substantial experience). This invariably means that when you catch a pothole or drain cover, or something else ( particularly if it’s dark and / or wet ) you’ll really damage the wheel / rim which is going to be another problem for you. Now on an off road bike, tubeless is the best thing since sliced bread, as you will be running much less pressure to volume, which means any pressure drop whilst any puncture is sealing, will really not be as big a problem, and the ability to run at lower pressure initially is actually useful. YMMV ( probably by tens of thousands of miles by the sounds of it). People are ( of course ) entitled to their opinions on the matter.
 

lane

Veteran
Yeah great idea:rolleyes:
It is yes it's what I do as well
 

lane

Veteran
“evidence based view” eh? I ride tens of thousands of miles a year, in all conditions, and I’ve found tubeless road tyres to be a complete liability. They are a complete nightmare to work with when you get a big cut, and even if you get a puncture that does seal, because of the higher pressure to volume on a typical road tyre, you’ll find yourself down to 40 or 50 psi ( in my substantial experience). This invariably means that when you catch a pothole or drain cover, or something else ( particularly if it’s dark and / or wet ) you’ll really damage the wheel / rim which is going to be another problem for you. Now on an off road bike, tubeless is the best thing since sliced bread, as you will be running much less pressure to volume, which means any pressure drop whilst any puncture is sealing, will really not be as big a problem, and the ability to run at lower pressure initially is actually useful. YMMV ( probably by tens of thousands of miles by the sounds of it). People are ( of course ) entitled to their opinions on the matter.
What width tyre out of interest?
 
Does anyone have an evidenced based view of TL robustness?
I've used Hutchinson Secteur 28mm predominantly, typically at 70-75psi rear and 60psi front. The fronts have lasted 10-12,000 km; the rears 5-8,000km. I did replace one front at 4,500km due to a 3-4mm glass cut which sealed happily but with which I was unhappy thereafter.

As of last January, I'm using IRC Formula Pro X-Guard, 28mm; same pressures as above. The front is on 10,000km and the first rear lasted 6,000km before replacement due to being a bit squared off (which is the replacement reason for all bar the cut one so far). Quite a few thorn punctures but none requiring any attention beyond removing the thorns.

41,000km total so far with no roadside issues, or issues of any other kind in fact.

I'm pretty happy with the robustness of both types of tyre running on the buttery smooth, regularly swept clean tarmac of the Yorkshire Dales, North Pennines, Forest of Bowland and the Lake District.
 
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fossyant

Ride It Like You Stole It!
Location
South Manchester
Not ever bothered with tubeless, and I'm MTB now. I've had two instances in the last 4 years where I needed a 'fix'. Both were thorns, but one was about 2" long. No point going tubeless for me, even though there are advantages. I'd need new wheels though. The tyres are tubeless ready.
 

Milkfloat

An Peanut
Location
Midlands
Does anyone have an evidenced based view of TL robustness?
I have been using Pro Ones exclusively on my road bikes as I have never felt the need to swap to another brand and got a great deal from mantell allowing me to stock up. I get about 2500 - 3500 miles out of a pair which seems to depend on summer or winter. I am on the last of my stock now and will switch to 5000TL next to see if there is much of a difference.
 

Jody

Stubborn git
Not ever bothered with tubeless, and I'm MTB now. I've had two instances in the last 4 years where I needed a 'fix'. Both were thorns, but one was about 2" long. No point going tubeless for me, even though there are advantages. I'd need new wheels though. The tyres are tubeless ready.

My standard giant rims weren't tubeless but still worked ok. Just needed taping and a set of valves. Ran them for a few years before I switched out to Hope.

It wasn't so much the puncture resistance (although one episode did encourage me to swap) but more for the weight reduction and grip. Worth giving it a try if you have a spare hour.
 

CXRAndy

Guru
Location
Lincs
My standard giant rims weren't tubeless but still worked ok. Just needed taping and a set of valves. Ran them for a few years before I switched out to Hope.

This, its marketing bull to have tubeless ready rims. Manufacturers are happy to put standard clinchers on tubeless ready rims, but no, don't ever put tubeless tyres on clincher rim. :laugh:

They will blow off, roll off. :wacko:

Just fit tubeless rim tape, valve and away you go. :okay:

Unless you are running super low pressures and going for ridiculous cornering angles, there is no problem.
 

Pale Rider

Legendary Member
This, its marketing bull to have tubeless ready rims.

Not quite, the tubeless ready rim has a different profile, a small ledge on either edge to mate with the tyre bead.

Which is not to say ordinary clincher rims don't work well tubeless - experience shows they can do so.
 

lane

Veteran
Not quite, the tubeless ready rim has a different profile, a small ledge on either edge to mate with the tyre bead.

Which is not to say ordinary clincher rims don't work well tubeless - experience shows they can do so.

Which is also not to say that all tubeless rims work in the exact same way in terms of profile and that some are better at retaining the tubeless tyres than others.
 

Dogtrousers

Kilometre nibbler
Steve Abraham rode tubeless (Schwalbe One) during his epic 198 miles per day year, and his 7,000 mile month. He was out on his own most of the time. No support other than people who turned up to ride with him.

Something of an "argument from authority" I know, but if there's anyone who knows what's what about riding big distances in UK conditions it's Steve.

He still rides tubeless, btw - eg on the Transatlantic Way recently.
 
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Milzy

Guru
I’m on my 3rd set of pro1s I get about 3500 mls
i really like them but find them puncture prone ,will be trying 5000tls next
I have swabbed g ones to on my gravel bike and find them excellent ,only had one puncture despite all the thorns
5000 TL's wear out after one season and if your pressure is low sided the carcass can rupture. Buyer beware.
 

CXRAndy

Guru
Location
Lincs
When I ride a motorcycle, I fit the best grippiest tyre and dont worry about wear. Its about keeping your two wheeled ride rubber side down.

My Pro Ones generally last very short time when I go to Tenerife. The heat and cornering really takes it out of them. I get about 1000 miles before they have worn to the point of replacement.
 
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