Indeed. If you want a valve with an easily removable core, how about Woods valves? Much easier than Schrader, though I've had no problem with those either. Some Schrader valve caps come with a protrusion and notch so you can change a valve core with it. It seems that if you want to be considered a serious cyclist, Presta is the way to go, especially if you have deep 700C rims. I used to be of that mindset, despite having to change a tube on several occasions over the years, when the screw in end broke, usually when it was freezing cold, wet and dark. If something can break, it will. For some, appearance is everything.
For me, if something works, that is good enough for me. If I got into tubeless I might feel more positive about Presta valves. Despite originally standardising on Presta valves on my bikes first the ubiquitous Schrader crept in, then the Woods on a trike with older, continental wheel sizes. The fact is, they all work, and the same pump head will fit both Presta and Woods, with a Schrader compatible fitting on the other side.
Is it an urban myth about Schrader valves losing air through centrifugal force overcoming the spring pressure? In over half a century of motorcycling and driving I've never had a situation where that happened. Someone will say that I've obviously not been going fast enough!
Sometimes if you need a tube in a rural bike shop you have to take what they've got, though the size of the valve hole in your rim might limit your choice.
Problem solved - never buy Continental tubes.
