Whyte Stirling overhaul

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Ajax Bay

Guru
Location
East Devon
^^^ this, and greater risk with a narrow chain, like the OP's 10sp. "Years ago" chains were wider and "joining the chain conventionally" by pushing the pin back in was much easier to get right (greater tolerances).
 
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ashley348

Active Member
Well thanks guy's, I've finally finished sorting out my Whyte!!! Couldn't have done it without your help. I reused the old cassette, after breaking it down and cleaning it there seemed to be very little wear, time will tell I guess.

The chain was only £12 so not a massive risk, seems to be working well. I will at some point treat it to a new rear wheel however, the hub sounds a little rough when spun fast, it's also a bit buckled.
 

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ashley348

Active Member
OK, so having just taken it for a spin it would seem all isn't well. It's fine in the upper 6-7 gears, but the bottom three seem to be slipping. The derailleur seems to be adjusted ok too. I assume this means my cassette is worn after all?
 

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Ajax Bay

Guru
Location
East Devon
Slipping: First thing to check is: is your mech hanger vertical/aligned with the plane of the bike?
When you put power down eg up a gentle hill, can you get it to slip/jump in (one of) the middle sprockets as well? If so you probaly have a cassette which has been worn by the last chain to an extent that a new chain complains. Two solutions: put old chain back on, or replace cassette. (You can't tell be visual inspection whether a cassette/sprocket is worn.)
Chain length: Put chain in large/large. To what "o'clock" does the mech cage point?
PS Disturbed to see your bike apparently upside down.
 
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ashley348

Active Member
Slipping: First thing to check is: is your mech hanger vertical/aligned with the plane of the bike?
When you put power down eg up a gentle hill, can you get it to slip/jump in (one of) the middle sprockets as well? If so you probaly have a cassette which has been worn by the last chain to an extent that a new chain complains. Two solutions: put old chain back on, or replace cassette. (You can't tell be visual inspection whether a cassette/sprocket is worn.)
Chain length: Put chain in large/large. To what "o'clock" does the mech cage point?
PS Disturbed to see your bike apparently upside down.
It only seems to slip in the bottom 3, which have seen more use I think. TBH this is probably my fault for ignoring the advice given eailer to replace the cassette too. Does this photo give any useful info? Cheers
 

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ashley348

Active Member
It only seems to slip in the bottom 3, which have seen more use I think. TBH this is probably my fault for ignoring the advice given eailer to replace the cassette too. Does this photo give any useful info? Cheers
Small on small, I think the length looks ok?
 

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Ajax Bay

Guru
Location
East Devon
The chain is not too long. If anything (and note for next time) I'd make it one (inch) link longer.
If you tend to use the smaller sprockets (assume flatland riding and fast) then the symptoms described are new chain on worn cassette. Likely the old chain was more than 0.6% elongated. New cassette time and in the meantime, don't put power down on the smaller sprockets.
 
OP
OP
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ashley348

Active Member
Slipping: First thing to check is: is your mech hanger vertical/aligned with the plane of the bike?
When you put power down eg up a gentle hill, can you get it to slip/jump in (one of) the middle sprockets as well? If so you probaly have a cassette which has been worn by the last chain to an extent that a new chain complains. Two solutions: put old chain back on, or replace cassette. (You can't tell be visual inspection whether a cassette/sprocket is worn.)
Chain length: Put chain in large/large. To what "o'clock" does the mech cage point?
PS Disturbed to see your bike apparently upside down.
10 o'clock by the look of things.
 
OP
OP
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ashley348

Active Member
The chain is not too long. If anything (and note for next time) I'd make it one (inch) link longer.
If you tend to use the smaller sprockets (assume flatland riding and fast) then the symptoms described are new chain on worn cassette. Likely the old chain was more than 0.6% elongated. New cassette time and in the meantime, don't put power down on the smaller sprockets.
Thanks, I'll buy a new cassette, do you think I'll get away with the chain being that length?
 

Ajax Bay

Guru
Location
East Devon
10 o'clock by the look of things.
Do you ride your bike upside down?
Now the chain is cut that length, I'd use it. But it is 'only just' long enough. Cassette needs to be the same speed as your shifters. The largest sprocket MUST not have more teeth that the current one (or you must make the chain longer). Shimano cassettes have a good reputation.
 
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ashley348

Active Member
Do you ride your bike upside down?
Now the chain is cut that length, I'd use it. But it is 'only just' long enough. Cassette needs to be the same speed as your shifters. The largest sprocket MUST not have more teeth that the current one (or you must make the chain longer). Shimano cassettes have a good reputation.
I turn it upside-down to work on!!😃 ok, I've ordered one with the same number of teeth, won't be here for some time though, seems to be a shortage of parts at the moment. Good to here, TBH I've always liked Shimano, my bikes are fitted with Sram, not so sure about them.
 
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ashley348

Active Member
Do you ride your bike upside down?
Now the chain is cut that length, I'd use it. But it is 'only just' long enough. Cassette needs to be the same speed as your shifters. The largest sprocket MUST not have more teeth that the current one (or you must make the chain longer). Shimano cassettes have a good reputation.
It's upside-down so I can work on it!😃 It's 3 links longer than the last one, which must have been far too short! Cheers, TBH I think I prefer Shimano to SRAM, or is that opening a massive can of worms?
 
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