Wood burners

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raleighnut

Legendary Member
I started with an axe and lump hammer but the loud ringing noise has damaged my ears and given me tinnitus. A nice big maul delivers a huge amount of energy at a concentrated point and is far more efficient. It doesn't have to be heavy if you lift it near the head then transfer that hand to the end and allow the maul to come over under its own momentum like a felling axe. If you've read the grain right the log is almost blown apart by the impact. Stay away from plate glass windows!
See it is the shockwave travelling through. :biggrin:
 

welsh dragon

Thanks but no thanks. I think I'll pass.
We have a log splitter. Place the wood I the space, and move the handles back and forward. A large piece of metal closes as you move the handles, pessing against the wood and it splits. Very little noise and large pieces of wood can be split. Bought it off eBay
 

dan_bo

How much does it cost to Oldham?
I started with an axe and lump hammer but the loud ringing noise has damaged my ears and given me tinnitus. A nice big maul delivers a huge amount of energy at a concentrated point and is far more efficient. It doesn't have to be heavy if you lift it near the head then transfer that hand to the end and allow the maul to come over under its own momentum like a felling axe. If you've read the grain right the log is almost blown apart by the impact. Stay away from plate glass windows!


Yes it is most satisfying.
 

ayceejay

Guru
Location
Rural Quebec
We burn about 4 cords a year which I buy in the summer and stack under cover. Most of it is already split to a convenient size but I use a maul to split anything oversize. We have some large Maples in the garden that drop deadwood on windy days, this is collected and stored to be used as kindling. The stove is a Jotul that is very efficient but we need an oil fueled furnace as back up as it gets very cold and windy here. We pay an extra premium for house insurance and also need to surround the stove with fireproof material as a wooden house can burn to the ground in minutes.
 

Berties

Fast and careful!
I did enough wood in last years storms to last 3 years , I'm king of the chain saw and maul , we fuel our solid fuel Rayburn all year, and a villager wood burner , I also had so much wood I off loaded 9 pickups of scotch pine,
My seasoning pile of logs is stacked can be seen from the space station, I have not had to do any this year yet!!last year was Wood addict , I have tried one of those little fan jobbies on the log burner this year and have been quite impressed
http://www.stovefans.co.uk/stove-fans
 

ayceejay

Guru
Location
Rural Quebec
Berties post reminds me of the importance of the wood as well as the stove. Scot's pine is a spitter and is best when it is at least two years dried and mixed with hardwoods in my opinion. Whatever the wood it needs to be dry and seasoned as green wood will clog up your flu in no time - a very dangerous situation.
Stacking firewood is very important and a stack varies from the mundane to the artistic http://www.inspirationgreen.com/stacking-firewood.html
woodpile.jpg
 

Berties

Fast and careful!
Scott's pine I had last year was off 2 big fells , and I have never felt so much energy come from fell in all my years....still it was easy , to deal with once down
 

Smurfy

Naturist Smurf
Read the instructions re what should be open in terms of vents.

Get a lot of small kindling and select some small split logs. Roll up and loosely knot 3 or 4 pages of full-sized newsprint. Lay these at the bottom making sure you can reach some of the ends of the rolled-up bits.

Lay the kindling all over the paper (no logs yet). Be generous, as it's the first time, and especially if the day is still or the room or chimney is cold (ie is there a cold draft coming down?).

Light in 3 or 4 places. As the paper catches, lay a small log or two on top and close the door till nearly shut. Watch to see how it draws. Shut the door gently when you think it's getting going, leaving the vent/vents open.

What brand btw?
I read once you're supposed to put the kindling and paper on top of the logs. Something about the logs being in air that has oxygen, rather than engulfed in inert, oxygen-free smoke. I think it's called the top down approach.
 

Smurfy

Naturist Smurf
This is the technique

http://www.woodheat.org/top-down-steps.html

Apparently it takes just 10 mins to get a roaring fire

Would anyone like to try it and report back?
 

SpokeyDokey

67, & my GP says I will officially be old at 70!
Moderator
I started with an axe and lump hammer but the loud ringing noise has damaged my ears and given me tinnitus. A nice big maul delivers a huge amount of energy at a concentrated point and is far more efficient. It doesn't have to be heavy if you lift it near the head then transfer that hand to the end and allow the maul to come over under its own momentum like a felling axe. If you've read the grain right the log is almost blown apart by the impact. Stay away from plate glass windows!

Yes - a Maul is unbeatable.

Cheap too - I have a really well made one obtained from the local woodyard for £17.00
 

Ganymede

Veteran
Location
Rural Kent
This is the technique

http://www.woodheat.org/top-down-steps.html

Apparently it takes just 10 mins to get a roaring fire

Would anyone like to try it and report back?
I believe it's supposed to work with coal fires - I've seen it in a 19th century household book.

I could try it if you like (if I remember) but it usually takes me less than 10 minutes to get a roaring fire anyway, particularly in a woodstove.

I am a total pyromaniac of course.
 

brand

Guest
[QUOTE 3427501, member: 45"]Do you have an inexpensive source for these?[/QUOTE]
No he hasn't, there isn't one.They are extraordinary expensive. Nor are they environmentally friendly the cost to the nvironment of making them and transporting them is considerable higher than cutting up trees locally. They definitionly don't beat the use of pallets that are going to rubbish tips. They burn cleaner as well. Happy OP?
 
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