Worthwhile Bike Upgrades

[Zoiders]

Looking at the frame in relationship to the wheels I would guess that it actualy a 700 wheel frame and not a 27" with 700s in it, you get a noticably "gappy" frame when you put 700s in a 27" frame and you need to use deep drop brakes as well

Looking at the age of the kit to date the bike I think you may well have a 130mm spaced frame as well or a 126 mm at the worst

Most modern kit will drop straight in, keep it as is IMHO and upgrade only when needed

 

[alecstilleyedye]

This bike looks like a classic. The rolls saddle was big news in the late 1980s! Beware of up-grading some components as the sizes and fitting standards have changed since this frame was built - eg, rear hub spacing for road bikes changed from 120mm to 130mm. There are many other things to consider with gear changes - your frame will not take a 9 or 10 speed cassette which is the norm these days. Up-grading an old machine is a minefield eg. dual pivot brakes are only available in allen key fitting, and you 'probably' have bolt through brakes - these are now very hard to find. I would change the saddle and just 'get out and ride' - good luck shifting the lbs!

in my experience, the rear brake is no problem, just put a nut and washer on the back where the the allen key bit would go. the front was a bit tickly, and required a rather long inverse bolt (if you see what i mean). dual pivots are desirable, so i understand, as they are more powerful and easier to keep true.

 

[heretic]

531 rear ends can be cold set to the new dimension, any framebuilder will do it, you can even do it yourself with a length of threaded bar, two nuts and some large washers, - or there's the agricultural method with a bit of wood recommended by Sheldon, bless 'im. Drilling brake bridges and fork crowns for modern brakes is perfectly acceptable too.

 

[hubgearfreak]

do it yourself with a length of threaded bar, two nuts and some large washers, - or there's the agricultural method with a bit of wood recommended by Sheldon,

it's spelt effective

 

[MichaelM]

I'd be tempted to go and upgrade the lot.

http://www.merlincycles.co.uk/?fn=product&productId=1295&categoryId=83

You'd need a rear wheel as well though.

 

[lastpubrunner]

it's spelt effective:?:

Many thanks for all the replies - most informative, I've learned a great deal from you all !!!

A few of you have suggested upgrading the groupset to something like the 10 Speed 2008 spec Campagnolo Veloce groupset. I don't doubt that this is an excellent groupset, especially with the possibility of saving £191. I have to say that I'm very tempted !!!

But would it really make such a difference to the bike ? (I've only never owned a bike with anything new on it).

If I were to fit such a groupset, how would the bike compare with more modern frames ? Would it still be a good deal heavier ? Might I be better getting something newer and lighter ? What are the benefits of a 531 frame if it is heavier ?

Furthermore, is brand-new 2008 campag gear better than new old stock campag gear ? In other words, if I fitted the period campag equipment, would it be inferior to what is available nowadays ? Is newer always better ? Is it lighter or more durable ?

Regards to all

 

[lastpubrunner]

I'd be interested to know, how would a lightweight Reynolds 531 frame with 10 Speed 2008 spec Campagnolo Veloce groupset & decent wheels and tyres match up against a modern aluminium/titanium or carbon framed equivalent ?

 

[MichaelM]

I'd be interested to know, how would a lightweight Reynolds 531 frame with 10 Speed 2008 spec Campagnolo Veloce groupset & decent wheels and tyres match up against a modern aluminium/titanium or carbon framed equivalent ?

Still dithering over this myself.

03 Lemond 853 steel frame.Fancy a Centaur groupset with a nice set of wheels. But... for a mere £999 I could buy the Planet X pro carbon Ultegra complete bike (was drooling over one at lbs today). I wonder if I'll ever actually make the decision !

 

[Chuffy]

Nice frame! Ok, I started out with an old-ish steel frame racer complete with it's original kit. Much of the kit was a bit old and worn, but perfectly serviceable. I still have it and it's my trustiest steed. The best advice I can think of (and I wish I'd heard this years ago) is to upgrade nothing until you've ridden the bike for a while and have had a chance to work out what actually needs replacing (and what you need to replace it with). You could throw a lot of money at it and end up with parts that don't really suit the bike. Change the saddle by all means (search Brooks on this forum ) but other than that, just replace and service things like the cables, brake pads etc for the moment.
Good luck and stick around. It's amazing what you can learn on places like this.

 

[Fab Foodie]

I'd go with Chuffy's advice.
Frankly there's an awful lot of crap talked about bikes as with many things in life.
All things being equal would a Titanium or Carbon framed bike with say Veloce and whatever wheels be any quicker/more comfortable than your 531 with the same kit...well marginally I would say, but so marginal for the average rider on the average UK road. OK the Evans would weigh a bit more, and would be marginally less stiff (though read Sheldon/Brandt and there's and argument that says stiffness does not mean faster or more efficient). 531 frame and Fork combo's are generally comfortable too.
Spending a grand will give you a lovely bike just like all the other lovely carbon/Titanium stuff out there.
Spending considerably less on whatever upgrading route you choose (minimal a la Chuffy or new wheels, tyres and groupset ~£400 to ~500 tops) will givew you a bike that's hand-built, fast, comfortable, with a history and unique.

A modern Cro-moly frame (not quite up to 531) will set you back at least £400 with look at Thorn's new Audax MK 3 or Salsa's Casserole (a C+ Best-Buy).
So, don't think the frame is not worth upgrading, just think about how to do it. Otherwise let me know what size and I'll bung you a few quid for it...I need a new Fixed project...

Depending on the quality an wear of the existing running-gear, a new groupset will generally be smoother and shift cleaner and more accurately, but for mere mortals won't really make you go much faster.

Weight issue. Weight is an issue when either accelerating or going uphill, once up to speed, weight can be a benefit. Unless you are criterium/club racing, don't get hung up on a slightly heavier frame...the place to save a few hundred grams weight where it really makes a difference is the wheels and you'll really notice an improvement in Sprightliness.

 

[bobg]

Another vote for Chuffys advice. Lovely bike, just ride it. FW Evans senior built some fine framesets . A friend of mine contacted the son of the original framebuilder with the number of his machine and got a very nice E mail back detailing its history. I'd certainly cherish it and only make essential changes. Welcome to the group

 

[lastpubrunner]

Still dithering over this myself.

03 Lemond 853 steel frame.Fancy a Centaur groupset with a nice set of wheels. But... for a mere £999 I could buy the Planet X pro carbon Ultegra complete bike (was drooling over one at lbs today). I wonder if I'll ever actually make the decision !

I agree entirely with all of the above !

The 'problem' that I face (surely, there must also be many others in the same situation) is that I've decided to get back into cycling after many years out. I dragged my old Reynolds framed bike out of the garage and noticed that it looks decidedly shabby next to modern offerings. I'll shortly be going on my first 50 mile group ride; I wonder how many others will be on steel framed bikes ? I suppose that in a way, it is down to peer pressure; I expect that others will look down their noses at my old machine.

Frankly, I don't mind if my frame weighs a little more, it hardly matters; after all, I could do with losing 10-20 pounds so why worry about the bike weighing a bit more ?

I think that there are probably a few others in a similar situation, who are unsure whether to get something new or stick with what they have. Perhaps individuals such as myself (in my 40s), who are trying to get fit in an effort to stave off advancing years. There must be many in my agegroup who have little knowledge about the latest carbonfibre or titanium wotsit but believe that it must be better than what is on their old bike.

We can read so much about the benefits of new wheels & groupsets etc and this in turn leads us to feel that we 'have' to buy the latest stuff.
I suspect that many returning cyclists such as myself, have very little knowledge about the latest equipment (This site is hugely valuable in that respect).

To some extent I do feel under pressure to update my bike or even buy a new one, but will they be so much better ?

Thank you again fo all the replies.

 

[Fab Foodie]

If the bike can be cleaned-relubed (all the bearings, BB, hubs etc) and made a smooth runner for little outlay, then ride as-is for a while. get a feel for what kind of use the bike will be asked to perform then re-evaluate what to do.
Oh, and there are plenty of old steel frames on our club training nights from classic Carltons, Colnagos, my Omega, Pinarello Sestriere and a few re-sprayed 531 and 753's in amongst the carbon,

 

[Chuffy]

I wouldn't worry about being on an 'old' bike. To be honest us bikies are a terribly old fashioned lot and you'll most likely get some very approving looks and comments with a bike like that. Turn up with a brand new carbon blingmobile and you're more likely to overhear mutterings about 'all the gear and no idea' before having your legs ripped off. Ride it with pride and don't fret what the neighbours think.

 

[Rhythm Thief]

I think it's a lovely bike - much more characterful and interesting, and a lot prettier, than the modern tupperware bikes - and I wouldn't change anything until it broke. I'd even keep the saddle as I think the San Marco Rolls is one of the most comfortable out there, but then saddles are very personal.