Would someone perhaps help this noobie out?

[pavena]

Bad idea, right?

 

[Old Plodder]

Quick wheel talk, pretty please?

Okay, so I've been lacing for days trying to figure out a pattern other than the basic under-under-over ordeal, but I was wondering.. I know that crossing the spokes makes the wheel stronger and sturdier, but my question is, is it MANDATORY to have the spokes crossed? What happens if I don't interlace them together?

Simple answer; you lose some of the wheels strength.
Front wheels can be built radially, if you are a carefull cyclist; but I would stick to 2X or 3X.
Rear wheels are usually heavily loaded so require strength, 3X or 4X. I sometimes had 3X & 4X (driveside) to equalise tension on the spokes themselves.
As a beginner, I suggest you stick to 3X front & rear.

(If you are still having lacing problems; fit the driveside pulling spokes first, then the static spokes; then fit the spokes on the other side.)
HTH.

 

[BigSteev]

Hi! First off, well done for diving in and having a go. You'll learn loads along the way which is always good.

I've just read through the thread and thought I'd see what I could add.
The bottom bracket is (as correctly id'ed) a press fit, one-piece crank bottom bracket, familiar to anyone who rode BMX back in the day, and the converter you pictured will do the job of converting it to fit a standard Euro BB.
As far as wheel lacing goes, you can lace a front wheel radially (zero crossing) unless it's going to be a disc brake wheel but the rear needs to have at least 2x so that when torque is applied to the pedals it will actually transmit the power to the rim rather than twisting the hub within the rim.

 

[pavena]

Duly noted! Thanks fellow friends!

 

[Rob3rt]

lol, rabbit! Thought it was a fat ferret until I scrolled enough to spot the tail!

 

[Christopher]

Bad idea, right?

Er I am not sure the wheel in the foreground is safe to ride, as all the spokes appear to be going in the same direction. The only thing to stop the hub untwisting clockwise and the wheel failing are spokes working in compression and that isn't ideal. Can you not swop half the spokes around so they work the other way?

 

[Old Plodder]

Er I am not sure the wheel in the foreground is safe to ride, as all the spokes appear to be going in the same direction. The only thing to stop the hub untwisting clockwise and the wheel failing are spokes working in compression and that isn't ideal. Can you not swop half the spokes around so they work the other way?

In a 36 spoked wheel, 9 spokes face each way each side.

You need to study that/those videos again!

(You should have inserted 9 pulling spokes, followed by 9 static spokes, turned the wheel over, & then inserted 9 of each on that side too.)

This is why not many people build their own wheels, it can get complicated until you've done a few.

 

[Pat "5mph"]

Pavena!
Love your Bunny and your project: you gonna be a master bike engineer me thinks.
Good luck, keep us posted, I would like to give wheel building a try one day

 

[pavena]

ALRIGHT! Time for some catching up. Sorry guys, I was out of town for an interview, and I don't wanna brag, but guess who got into med school?!

Anyway.

So, I filed off those annoying tubes. My adapter came in, tried to fit it in, but it still stuck out. A lot of you said not to file down the second wall in the BB shell, but it was in the way, so I had to file that down as well. The tips for the Dremel my friend had sucked, so I had to resort to the yellow elephant. HOW ANNOYING TO KEEP WAITING FOR THE PSI GAUGE TO GO UP BEFORE GOING AT IT. My hands were literally numb! Anyway, hammered the betch in and after several silly attempts, I FINALLY GOT IT, DAMNIT!

I fked up my paint job, but honestly, I don't even give a sht anymore, I was so frustrated!

Now, someone made me aware of spacing issues?

 

[Pottsy]

Med school? Tell us more.

No idea on spacing issues, obvs.

 

[pavena]

No big, surgical student.

Oh, hm, I don't remember who told me, but someone said there could be a spacing issue with my crank arm or something along those lines.

 

[wanda2010]

Congratulations on med school!

Sorry I can't help with the spacing issues

 

[hoski]

Oh, hm, I don't remember who told me, but someone said there could be a spacing issue with my crank arm or something along those lines.

Could they have been referring to clearance between your crank and chainstays? Presumably as you've had to fit an adapter, etc to fit your bottom bracket there could have been issues there, i.e. your crank hitting the frame

The other spacing issue with FG/SS would be chainline - there's tons of information out there on this

 

[Davywalnuts]

No big, surgical student.

Oh, hm, I don't remember who told me, but someone said there could be a spacing issue with my crank arm or something along those lines.

Am guessing, but looking over the frame pictures, what was sais maybe more along the lines of the 'chain line'.. and the 'spacing' on the rear hub where your cog or freewheel goes and the width of your BB.. I cant see the length of your crank arms you mentioned being a problem..

If you are using track specific hubs, ie, fixed/ss specific ones, am sure the issue will more be to do with your bb width.. But I've only built up using a track specific frame... not a conversion. And I have skim read this thread so maybe repeating whats already been said/known..

 

[simon.r]

Google 'snowflake lacing' - the possibilities are endless