I just had marinated aubergines for lunch. Based, in a slapdash sort of way, on a recipe from the Silver Spoon. Lots of finely chopped garlic, chilli, capers, mint and parsley, salt and pepper - dress some warm grilled or fried aubergine slices with this, top with a little olive oil and leave overnight. It's rather like the first few seconds when you get in the sea - food to remind you with a slap around the chops that it's good to be alive. Banish the bland, and talk zingy food to me. I want salsa verde, kimchi, lime pickle and lemon surprise pudding (not all at once, obviously). Just before Christmas I was introduced to chicken livers with pomegranate at a Lebanese in Streatham High Road. Bring it on.