Vikeonabike
CC Neighbourhood Police Constable
- Location
- Bourne, Lincolnshire
Can I use Dubbin on my brooks Saddle to keep it weatherproof and supple?
Brooks Saddle Weatherproofing
- Thread starter Vikeonabike
- Start date
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C
chillyuk
Guest
Just don't do what I did to a motorcycle seat once years ago and polish it with silicone polish. I had sore nuts for weeks every time I applied the brakes.
Rohloff_Brompton_Rider
Formerly just_fixed
just stick a plastic bag up inside the rails and fit when not using it (the bike). cheap and i don't think people will nick a plastic bag.
edit: i thought the proofide was a waterproofer?
edit: i thought the proofide was a waterproofer?
CyclingCat
Well-Known Member
- Location
- Ipswich UK
Brooks make/made their own product.
Do not use linseed oil, it rots the saddle
Do not use linseed oil, it rots the saddle
bikefettler
New Member
- Location
- Swansea by the sea
After using various leather treatments inc proofide I have come to the conclusion (having ruined a brooks conquest) that a little and not very often is the way to go, You are not trying to soften the leather merely maintain its natural elasticity and too much too often will result in pressure being where it shouldn,t and you sinking into the saddle rather than just your sit bones developing dents in the saddle as the leather adapts to your physique,The best saddle soap I ever had included lanolin and made the saddle semi waterproof but I would still say put a carrier bag on it if left out in the rain.
gwhite
Über Member
- Location
- Auchtermuchty Fife
I've copied this from a post I made to Bike Forums. Hope it helps.
It's not the type of leather used in boots and the Brooks saddle that is different, leather is leather. It is the process used by Brooks in order to form the saddle that is important. This process used to shape the leather around the metal former means that the all the natural oils are leached out of the leather. It becomes wood-like, as is very noticeable in a new saddle. The leather fibres are now dry which means that the rider's "sit-bones" can now break these fibres in order to create the indentations required while leaving the rest of the saddle hard. This situation is necessary if the Brooks recommended method of breaking- in the saddle is to work. If oils remained in the leather, then the fibres would slide over each other rather than breaking and no indentations would be created, the saddle would then operate as a hammock.
The downside of this method of production is that, over the years, the leather dries out and cracks, albeit it may take 30-40 years. This can be avoided by a fairly light application of leather conditioner (e.g.Hydrophane .) on the underside, which will ensure that the drying-out process will not happen. Too much conditioner will soften the leather so care should be taken.
Personally, I have developed my own method over the years for my saddles and many others. Before fitting, I soak with water the underside of the new saddle in the area of my "sit-bones". The leather now becomes very pliable. I then use my thumb to create the depressions needed by my "sit-bones", (you can use foam or corrugated card board to find their position), and then leave the saddle to dry for 24 hours. The saddle will now be as hard as before but has the depressions. I now apply one coating only of leather conditioner to the underside, treat with Proofide on the top-side and polish off, and fit the saddle. The saddle is now ready to ride but you have no uncomfortable "breaking-in" to do.
It's not the type of leather used in boots and the Brooks saddle that is different, leather is leather. It is the process used by Brooks in order to form the saddle that is important. This process used to shape the leather around the metal former means that the all the natural oils are leached out of the leather. It becomes wood-like, as is very noticeable in a new saddle. The leather fibres are now dry which means that the rider's "sit-bones" can now break these fibres in order to create the indentations required while leaving the rest of the saddle hard. This situation is necessary if the Brooks recommended method of breaking- in the saddle is to work. If oils remained in the leather, then the fibres would slide over each other rather than breaking and no indentations would be created, the saddle would then operate as a hammock.
The downside of this method of production is that, over the years, the leather dries out and cracks, albeit it may take 30-40 years. This can be avoided by a fairly light application of leather conditioner (e.g.Hydrophane .) on the underside, which will ensure that the drying-out process will not happen. Too much conditioner will soften the leather so care should be taken.
Personally, I have developed my own method over the years for my saddles and many others. Before fitting, I soak with water the underside of the new saddle in the area of my "sit-bones". The leather now becomes very pliable. I then use my thumb to create the depressions needed by my "sit-bones", (you can use foam or corrugated card board to find their position), and then leave the saddle to dry for 24 hours. The saddle will now be as hard as before but has the depressions. I now apply one coating only of leather conditioner to the underside, treat with Proofide on the top-side and polish off, and fit the saddle. The saddle is now ready to ride but you have no uncomfortable "breaking-in" to do.
Manonabike
Über Member
gwhite said:
Where did you get that from?
A few things that make sense but others seem to be total bul****t
gwhite
Über Member
- Location
- Auchtermuchty Fife
Manonabike said:Where did you get that from?
A few things that make sense but others seem to be total bul****t
Thanks for your constructive comments. The answer to your question is "nowhere". All my own I'm afraid and the result of forty years experience with Brooks saddles. If you have any evidence contradicting the above I'd be happy to see it.
I've seen an awful lot of contrary advice on Brooks saddle care - oiling, not oiling, proofhide, not proofhide, stretching, not stretching...the list goes on and on.
Personally I fit the saddle, break it in by riding on it (doesn't take me long), then continue to ride it until it's worn out (minimum 10 years). At that stage I reckon I've had good value so I bin it and buy a new one.
I do think some people make it all sound far too complicated!
Personally I fit the saddle, break it in by riding on it (doesn't take me long), then continue to ride it until it's worn out (minimum 10 years). At that stage I reckon I've had good value so I bin it and buy a new one.
I do think some people make it all sound far too complicated!
Manonabike
Über Member
gwhite said:
Well, if you had said that the tanning process that brooks uses for their leathers, extracts all the oils, then I would have perhaps said that it was possible but you were probably wrong.
As you said "Leather is Leather" and as such leather needs natural oils.... not enough and the leather will crack and too much oils and the leather will rotten. Most of the product you can buy over the counter for maintaining shoes are bad for leather. Very few are good, shoe polish cream is quite good but standard shoe polish or wax is bad, they contribute in the rotten process.
I'll go along with your advise.... don't put too much protection BUT I'm sure somebody will come along and say just make sure you soak the leather in wax or whatever and that works.
Gerry Attrick
Lincolnshire Mountain Rescue Consultant
Manonabike said:Well, if you had said that the tanning process that brooks uses for their leathers, extracts all the oils, then I would have perhaps said that it was possible but you were probably wrong.
As you said "Leather is Leather" and as such leather needs natural oils.... not enough and the leather will crack and too much oils and the leather will rotten. Most of the product you can buy over the counter for maintaining shoes are bad for leather. Very few are good, shoe polish cream is quite good but standard shoe polish or wax is bad, they contribute in the rotten process.
I'll go along with your advise.... don't put too much protection BUT I'm sure somebody will come along and say just make sure you soak the leather in wax or whatever and that works.
I wondered where I went wrong with my thirty year old brogues which I polish with "Cherry Blossom" shoe polish. As I said, they are thirty years old and are now completely............perfect
