- Location
- Inside my skull
I have this one for carrying on the bike.
https://www.merlincycles.com/topeak-mini-9-multi-tool-44952.html
https://www.merlincycles.com/topeak-mini-9-multi-tool-44952.html
Can't take pedal off using a wrench?
- Thread starter Anonymous1502
- Start date
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Possibly neither.
Long levers are useful for some jobs, but may give you too much leverage when tightening up and could strip threads. Just get a basic set from Halfords/asda/etc and just carry the ones you need for your own bike.
PaulSB
Legendary Member
- Location
- Chorley, Lancashire
Excellent. Good to see you received the standard of service I would expect from a quality LBS. Please reward them by supporting the shop whenever you can.Thank you very much for all your help everyone here is an update:
I went down to my local bike shop they had taken off the old pedal, attached the new pedals and attached the cleats my shoes all free of charge
No need to buy any tools for now.
You will find the benefits far outweigh the few ££££ more you will spend on bits and pieces. I'll qualify this by saying as a pensioner on a fixed income getting the best value is something I understand and is important to me, just as I know it is to young people and students.
Best value though is not always the cheapest option in terms of either money or time.
Enjoy.
vickster
Legendary Member
For the sake of a fiver (or less if you have to pay Wiggle postage) I'd get the Pearson's ones as you'll be supporting a real LBS (that's been in business since 1860, longer than any other in the UK), rather than a warehouse with no customer service people to speak to who are undercutting LBSs and putting them out of business...
but that's just me
T.M.H.N.E.T
Rainbows aren't just for world champions
- Location
- Northern Ireland
Bigsteve4
New Member
Check your going the right way. I used a 15mm spanner and a hammer. Hold spanner on the crank with a cloth over it with one hand and tap the other with hammer .i had to smack it quite hard . Some previous owner had really over tightened them they should be just pinched up. Ifitted carbon shamarno made a good weight saving.
Ajax Bay
Guru
- Location
- East Devon
@Anonymous1502 with regard to allen/hex keys
Go round your bike and note down (on paper
even) what keys you need. The most common is a 5 mm but there will be others: bottle cage screws, cleat bolts, computer mount fastening. A small multi-tool is easiest for carrying in your under-seat bag but if you only need two allen keys and a small screwdriver maybe that's easier (and what I do btw).
But for tweaking at home (for example removing, cleaning and refitting your seat post (have you done that yet?)) 'normal' tools, colour coded or not, are far easier to use. Ignore the 'torque' option - your bike is not carbon and so that just adds complexity and cost. And avoid the allen keys with 'ball ends': their use increases the risk of damage to the socket.
Go round your bike and note down (on paper
even) what keys you need. The most common is a 5 mm but there will be others: bottle cage screws, cleat bolts, computer mount fastening. A small multi-tool is easiest for carrying in your under-seat bag but if you only need two allen keys and a small screwdriver maybe that's easier (and what I do btw).But for tweaking at home (for example removing, cleaning and refitting your seat post (have you done that yet?)) 'normal' tools, colour coded or not, are far easier to use. Ignore the 'torque' option - your bike is not carbon and so that just adds complexity and cost. And avoid the allen keys with 'ball ends': their use increases the risk of damage to the socket.
Lovacott
Über Member
You can pretty much get away with a pocket knife multi tool and a dumb bell spanner for most things bike.@Anonymous1502 with regard to allen/hex keys
Go round your bike and note down (on paper
But for tweaking at home (for example removing, cleaning and refitting your seat post (have you done that yet?)) 'normal' tools, colour coded or not, are far easier to use. Ignore the 'torque' option - your bike is not carbon and so that just adds complexity and cost. And avoid the allen keys with 'ball ends': their use increases the risk of damage to the socket.
Chuck in a crank remover, BB tool, Freewheel tool, pump and a puncture kit and you are pretty well set.
The more you work on your bike, the more things you will buy to maybe make the job that little bit easier (although doable, it's not very easy to adjust the slave disc on a rear disc brake bike with a multi tool hex key).
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Ajax Bay
Guru
- Location
- East Devon
Crank pointing forward (2:30 o'clock), robust spanner (at least 9" long) securely on pedal axle flats, facing backwards (9 o'clock), solid support under frame (directly under BB shell), welly end of spanner with coal hammer (care). Shock action.
Bar extension allows torque multiplication, but not as much as the instantaneous Nm of a 5lbs coal hammer at speed. The extension bends if you hit the end of it reducing the shock effect and torque 'spike' that's needed.
Ajax Bay
Guru
- Location
- East Devon
nmfeb70
Senior Member
- Location
- Tonypandy, Wales
Good luck with those!
Anonymous1502
Well-Known Member
Yes the local bike shop did it for me
