- Location
- Inside my skull
I have this one for carrying on the bike.
https://www.merlincycles.com/topeak-mini-9-multi-tool-44952.html
https://www.merlincycles.com/topeak-mini-9-multi-tool-44952.html
Possibly neither.
Excellent. Good to see you received the standard of service I would expect from a quality LBS. Please reward them by supporting the shop whenever you can.Thank you very much for all your help everyone here is an update:
I went down to my local bike shop they had taken off the old pedal, attached the new pedals and attached the cleats my shoes all free of charge
No need to buy any tools for now.
For the sake of a fiver (or less if you have to pay Wiggle postage) I'd get the Pearson's ones as you'll be supporting a real LBS (that's been in business since 1860, longer than any other in the UK), rather than a warehouse with no customer service people to speak to who are undercutting LBSs and putting them out of business...
Check your going the right way. I used a 15mm spanner and a hammer. Hold spanner on the crank with a cloth over it with one hand and tap the other with hammer .i had to smack it quite hard . Some previous owner had really over tightened them they should be just pinched up. Ifitted carbon shamarno made a good weight saving.I got one of the pedals off no problem while the other one won't budge.
You can pretty much get away with a pocket knife multi tool and a dumb bell spanner for most things bike.@Anonymous1502 with regard to allen/hex keys
Go round your bike and note down (on papereven) what keys you need. The most common is a 5 mm but there will be others: bottle cage screws, cleat bolts, computer mount fastening. A small multi-tool is easiest for carrying in your under-seat bag but if you only need two allen keys and a small screwdriver maybe that's easier (and what I do btw).
But for tweaking at home (for example removing, cleaning and refitting your seat post (have you done that yet?)) 'normal' tools, colour coded or not, are far easier to use. Ignore the 'torque' option - your bike is not carbon and so that just adds complexity and cost. And avoid the allen keys with 'ball ends': their use increases the risk of damage to the socket.
Crank pointing forward (2:30 o'clock), robust spanner (at least 9" long) securely on pedal axle flats, facing backwards (9 o'clock), solid support under frame (directly under BB shell), welly end of spanner with coal hammer (care). Shock action.Big massive bar extension was on to the 15mm spanner still hasn’t budged mine .
Good luck with those!
Are the pedals off yet ?