Chain wear

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Location
Loch side.
Wow. I've used KMC Z-series chains without problem but I think they were Z50. Z50 is was 369g but Z7 is only 320g for the same 116 links. I wonder where they saved the weight? :sad:

(Edit: www.kmcchain.eu no longer lists the Z50 so I guess it's discontinued.)
Weight saved on a chain is done by fiddling with the side plate shape or making the pins hollow. Neither of these methods have an effect on chain life but they do affect your wallet's weight significantly.
 

S-Express

Guest
What do you use to lube the chain @rivers
if its wd40 then it probably is fubared in 6 week's of daily use.

Depends on how often the WD (original WD, as opposed to any of the newer bike-spec stuff) is applied. If applied before every ride, then there is no issue as it will be just as good as anything else. But it is wrong to imply that WD will 'fubar' your chain, because it won't.
 

raleighnut

Legendary Member
Depends on how often the WD (original WD, as opposed to any of the newer bike-spec stuff) is applied. If applied before every ride, then there is no issue as it will be just as good as anything else. But it is wrong to imply that WD will 'fubar' your chain, because it won't.
It won't lubricate it very well though, might stop it squeaking a bit.
 

S-Express

Guest
It won't lubricate it very well though, might stop it squeaking a bit.

True it won't lubricate particularly well, but that's why it needs re-applying regularly. It will lubricate fine for as long as it is on the chain. There are more appropriate lubes which will need applying less frequently.
 

S-Express

Guest
No it won't. The shear strength of WD40 is not enough to lubricate high-pressure points such as found inside a chain.

Do you know what the shear strength of WD40 actually is? If not, how do you know it is not sufficient? Also, I'm not sure that phrases like 'high pressure points' and 'bicycle chains' are mutually compatible.
 
Location
Loch side.
Do you know what the shear strength of WD40 actually is? If not, how do you know it is not sufficient? Also, I'm not sure that phrases like 'high pressure points' and 'bicycle chains' are mutually compatible.
I can look it up on a table if that would satisfy you. However, there's a reason why hypoid oils contain additives such as sulphur to increase the shear strength of the film. WD 40 contains none of it.
You can easily prove this to yourself by tightening two nuts on two bolts until they seize. Find a sizeable high-tensile bolt - say 16mm in dia. Lubricate the one with hypoid oil, the other with your favourite spray-on squeak reducer. Now tighten them until the nut seizes and count the number of turns. Report your findings.
The entire load in a chain is borne on two pressure points per link which are each no more than 1mm square. Let's assume 2mm square (see photo). Now calculate the pressure on those points using own body weight. Let us know if you still think it is not high enough to warrant good oil.

I suspect two things:

a) You won't bother to do the experiment.
b) You'll play with semantics to get out of the "high pressure" scenario.
 

S-Express

Guest
To be fair, you were the one that mentioned 'high pressure', not me. So it's a bit rich you accusing me of playing semantics for picking you up on something which you won't clarify. Anyway, what on earth have hypoid gear oils got to do with bicycle chain lube? And what is your definition of 'good' oil?

Allow me to suggest an alternative test:

1) lube a chain regularly with WD40
2) see how you get on

I suspect two things

a) you won't bother to do the experiment
b) you'll respond by patronising me again with something irrelevant about oil science

To be clear though, I'm not necessarily recommending WD as a chain lube (I don't use it myself) - I'm just saying it will do, as long as it is used regularly. It provides a very thin coating of oil on the chain, which is pretty much all you can ask of any chain lube. How long it stays there is another issue, which brings me back to my original point.
 
Location
Loch side.
To be fair, you were the one that mentioned 'high pressure', not me. So it's a bit rich you accusing me of playing semantics for picking you up on something which you won't clarify. Anyway, what on earth have hypoid gear oils got to do with bicycle chain lube? And what is your definition of 'good' oil?

Allow me to suggest an alternative test:

1) lube a chain regularly with WD40
2) see how you get on

I suspect two things

a) you won't bother to do the experiment
b) you'll respond by patronising me again with something irrelevant about oil science

To be clear though, I'm not necessarily recommending WD as a chain lube (I don't use it myself) - I'm just saying it will do, as long as it is used regularly. It provides a very thin coating of oil on the chain, which is pretty much all you can ask of any chain lube. How long it stays there is another issue, which brings me back to my original point.
Yes, I did mention pressure and I explained why I say it is high. You disputed it.

a) I have done the experiment. Many times under controlled conditions. I have documented and summarized the results.
b) I won't patronize you by asking why science is not relevant because I've realized that your opinion overrides repeatable experiments.
 
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