Doing up a Dawes Galaxy (Shimano bits advice)

[willem]

Get a good wheelbuilder to rebuild the rear wheel. Updating to etrto 622 (the offical name for the modern size) involves too many additional issues. Let him see if the hub is still ok (I really hope it is), and if the rim is fine as well. A new etrto 630 (that is the proper name for 27 inch) rim can still be bought, and of better quality than the old ones. This problem is of course an example of the kind of issues you run into with older bikes. 126 mm hubs can still be had. Easily for thread on freewheels, the much better Shimano cassette hubs in this size are hard to get (but I already found one in less than two minutes), and I think the Suntour offerings are incompatible (not sure, but beware).
Willem

 

[Jugular]

I did some more measuring yesterday.

I've found that the ebay listing was incorrect (surprise!) it's actually a 23.5" frame which I suspect is probably big enough as long as I can get a different seatpost that has a longer allowable exposed section. The rear axle spacing is 126mm. I still can't quite decide whether adjusting all the sizes would be worthwhile. Would the bike look a bit silly with smaller wheels?

 

[WJHall]

For three broken spokes...

Take a spoke key, three suitable spokes the right length, insert, carefully adjust tension as appropriate to get wheel true, including other spokes as appropriate. Does the general spoke tension sound correct when you ping the spokes? If so then inserting three spokes should not be a problem.

Alternatively, since it seems to rather doubtful that the bike fits, sell it on and look for one that does.

 

[Jugular]

Thanks WJHall.

I think the bike does fit it just has an unusually short seatpost.

The problem with "just fitting" some spokes is that they cannot be fitted with the block still attached to the wheel. Removing the block is not straightforward with a screw-on freewheel hub that hasn't be undone for over 30 years, to do so you need to use the strength and torque of the wheel to undo it. As the wheel weakens everytime you break another spoke, if it hasn't already removed the block it will never do so. To remove the block will involve damaging the hub beyond repair (unless very lucky, or there's some other technique not listed by Sheldon Brown). Catch 22. Buggered wheel.

 

[WJHall]

That is different, I thought you meant that the shop had removed the freewheel and broken the spokes in the process. If the freewheel is still on after there efforts you probably need to look up the procedure for taking a freewheel apart and removing it that way.

I have such a job to look at some time in the future when the freewheel on on of my passed on bikes eventually wears out, hoping no spokes break before then.

That is the problem with second hand bikes, I always remove the freewheel from a new bike and grease under it. No one else seems to...

 

[Welsh Pirate]

Regarding the broken spokes, I would recommend replacing all of the spokes on the drive side of the wheel.

Why? Because it is likely that other drive side spokes are fatigued and will break as soon as you start riding - the ones that have broken already are likely to have been just the beginning. I would say that the cost of 16 (or 18) new spokes is minimal for piece of mind.

I had the same issue on a pair of wheels that I bought for one of my bikes - three drive side spokes broke. I measured the tension with the park tool spoke tension meter (i've since started to build my own wheels) and found that the spokes were too loose. I replaced all the drive side spokes, tightened all the spokes to the recommended tension. Since then the wheel has been fine.

I hope this helps - I found Roger Musson's Wheel Building book to be of great help. You can download it from his site for £9.

 

[WJHall]

As has been said several times, all old bicycles are superb machines, but they are also old bicycles.

Given the situation as I now understand it - three broken spokes - freewheel jammed on, I suspect it is worth considering the purchase of a new basic 27 inch rear wheel, the one currently in place is probably fairly basic, and new freewheel, and leaving the current wheel and freewheel for leisurely attention with lots of easing oil. Console yourself with the thought that the new freewheel can be counted as a revenue rather than capital item. (This is where the DCF approach is useful.)

Of course this does risk turning you into a collector of old bicycle parts....

Possible cheaper option, if opportunity presents is to buy another old cheap bicycle and cannibalise it. Which turns you into a collector of old bicycles....

 

[Jugular]

I think my current plan is to forget both old wheels and get a new pair built. All the while get my frame repainted and the rear triangle stretched to 130mm, then I can use modern easily available components but retain the ertro 630 rims. I might also consider replacing the brakes, brake levers and getting new fittings for cantis or v-brakes. How do I work out if they will fit or not?

I have some beautiful bar tape that has now slipped out of shape, can I refit it with some new glue stuff? I also like the tan brake hoods I have on my weinmann levers, but I don't reckon they're available anywhere anymore.

 

[PpPete]

I think my current plan is to forget both old wheels and get a new pair built. All the while get my frame repainted and the rear triangle stretched to 130mm, then I can use modern easily available components but retain the ertro 630 rims.

Widening a 126mm rear triangle to 130mm or even 135mm is easy... but why stick to 630 rims? Go to 622 - you won't notice the difference in looks, and gives you a much wider range of rims, tyres etc.

+1 on Welsh Pirates advice about Roger Musson's book, I used it to build new wheels for my Galaxy. Fantastic set of wheels that are lighter & faster than the originals... and just as strong. Cost about £120 in components +£9 for the book + £10 for tools.

I might also consider replacing the brakes, brake levers and getting new fittings for cantis or v-brakes. How do I work out if they will fit or not?

If you have canti studs - use them, cyclo-x types are most efficient. Otherwise long drop dual pivots will cope with the change in wheel size from 27" to 700c.... and give excellent braking. I wouldn't bother getting canti studs brazed on.

I have some beautiful bar tape that has now slipped out of shape, can I refit it with some new glue stuff?

Yes .... I actually prefer the non-adhesive kind. You need to exert a constant pull to get it on tight, but you can re-do many times if you need to change any accessories on the bars.

I also like the tan brake hoods I have on my weinmann levers, but I don't reckon they're available anywhere anymore.

This is about the nearest you'll get. I bought black ones from that seller a while back. They fit quite well if you cut away a small piece to lengthen the slot underneath where it doesn't show.

 

[Jugular]

Thanks for the advice porkypete. Your advice always gives me a boost, simple, to the point, and reassuring.

I spent the time (yeah it was only 5 minutes I admit) to work out what type of brake I already have on the Galaxy and have deduced that I have cantilevers. Maybe I just need some better rims and brake pads to ensure improved braking. I'm not sure the canti's are very adjustable though so perhaps and alternative is required.

 

[willem]

Braking wil improve with new cables and Koolstop Salmon pads.
Willem

 

[Jugular]

We found a terminal crack on the left rear chainstay of my fiance's bike, so I spent yesterday afternoon salvaging various parts from that, happily it also has 630 wheels. I've fitted them and found that the shimano cantis I have need a good servicing, after which, I'm good to go. This has cost me nothing so far!
Now I can ride to Paul Hewitt's and get some expert opinion. It's strange riding a cumbersome again after spending the last couple of months on my Brompton.