Giant Defy 4 2015 Rear Wheel Off Center

[chrisb1357]

Spent a bit of time setting up the bike before going out but how should the bar angle be set on the drops as I just left them as they came by default as went out for a ride and had no back or neck pain but the hoods just seem a little to far forward or it could just be me not use to the riding position. Is the stem on a Defy 4 100mm

Many Thanks
Chris

 

[vickster]

If you are comfortable, leave alone. Some of the shimano hoods are very chunky (probably why I can't personally get good braking power from them)

However, if concerned, post a picture

 

[chrisb1357]

This is the current position/angle of the drops / hoods. Like I said above I had no back or neck pain after tonight's first ride but the hoods did seem a very little far forward but it could just be me not use to the riding position after not being on a bike for 2 years and my last bike being flat bar and not drop.

Chris

 

[Justinslow]

This is the current position/angle of the drops / hoods. Like I said above I had no back or neck pain after tonight's first ride but the hoods did seem a very little far forward but it could just be me not use to the riding position after not being on a bike for 2 years and my last bike being flat bar and not drop.

Chris

You could rotate the bars a bit to bring the hoods up and closer to you, but they don't look too bad as they are. As a rough guide my ends of the drops are pointing in a straight line to my rear brake caliper. If you rotate up too far then you have trouble grabbing the brakes and changing gear when in the drops. I ended up going from 120mm stem to 90mm and it helped my "feeling" from the bike no end. I didn't have a bike fit and bought blind probably like you. A Deda zero stem is probably around £20 so it's not an expensive change if you go that route. It could just be you need to get used to the bike!

 

[bonsaibilly]

The bike shop got the bike back today and they phoned to say the rear wheel was not dished and the front had a slight buckle as well. They have re dished the wheel and re true the front wheel.

The option they have offered is the wheels are now ok and to change the following that had the deep scratches on.

1, Replace the front and rear brake assembly with Shimano Claris instead of Tektro TK-R312 Giant Specific, Dual Pivot type

2, Change the crankset to a FSA Vero instead of FSA Tempo

As long as the brakes work I guest having matching Shimano is ok but as am new to road bikes would I see any difference in having a FSA Vero crankset instead of FSA Tempo fitted.

Many Thanks
Chris

Basically if they are offering you free upgrades and labour then take them up on it. Why wouldn't you? BUT! Are they trying to save replacement costs?

I personally think a 2-3 mm rim offset is not within tolerance. You should be able to see your wheels pretty much perfectly centred on a new bike. You've spent several hundred ££s on a product and it should be free from any defect however apparently minor. Giant are a mahoosive firm and can well absorb the cost of a return on a copy that came out defective.

If the chainstays *are* asymmetric (which I doubt), as has been said above it should still mean you will get a centred wheel. And you can check this by spinning it once it's planted properly in the dropouts. bb

 

[bonsaibilly]

Got the bike back on Sat and all is well.

Went for my first ride this evening but it was only a 7 mile ride.

You want to take the wheels off and then re-fit them to see if the shop have truly straightened out the issue. (And also it wil help establish if you just had the wheel(s) wrongly slotted in the first place!) bb

 

[bonsaibilly]

You could rotate the bars a bit to bring the hoods up and closer to you, but they don't look too bad as they are. As a rough guide my ends of the drops are pointing in a straight line to my rear brake caliper. If you rotate up too far then you have trouble grabbing the brakes and changing gear when in the drops. I ended up going from 120mm stem to 90mm and it helped my "feeling" from the bike no end. I didn't have a bike fit and bought blind probably like you. A Deda zero stem is probably around £20 so it's not an expensive change if you go that route. It could just be you need to get used to the bike!

All of the above. (Mind you it took him a long time to realise it is the human that adapts to the bike not the other way round!)

Start with the handlebar at neutral. (It's self-evident really.) ie, the horizontal part parallel to the ground. You'll either persevere and adapt to that, or find yourself endlessly tweaking the handlebar up and down till you get the spot-on. One of the joys of getting into road cycling is those micro adjustments that you discover about yourself and your bike as you ride. No one on a forum can prescribe your correct setup. (Though a great many will try.) bb

 

[Ajax Bay]

the horizontal part parallel to the ground

If a part is parallel to the ground it's horizontal, isn't it?

 

[Ajax Bay]

I personally think a 2-3 mm rim offset is not within tolerance. You should be able to see your wheels pretty much perfectly centred on a new bike.

+1. New bike. New wheel (?). Needs to be right. Where did they pull the 'within Giant tolerances' authority from, I wonder?

 

[chrisb1357]

It was Giant UK Telephone Support that said they have a tolerance of a few mm before the shop told me the same. Also the Giant store said the same

Been out again for another ride today in the rain and only my 2nd ride and pleased with the bike.

Was good for the original shop to but the items right etc,

 

[chrisb1357]

I had the rear wheel off at the weekend and when putting it back on the bike it seated correctly and center.

One question I have is as I am new to all this when I was tightening the rear wheel quick release nut up I noticed small movement of the rear derailleur hanger moving outwards when doing the quick release tight. Is this normal due to the tension of the quick release. Gears all seem fine.

 

[Ajax Bay]

when I was tightening the rear wheel quick release nut up I noticed small movement of the rear derailleur hanger moving outwards when doing the quick release tight

Movement 'outwards' relative to what? The RD hanger is bolted to the dropout (or is integral). The locknut (drive side) is forced against the dropout when the QR lever is tightened/closed. Check that the hanger is firmly (with appropriate torque) bolted to the dropout and the hanger is not itself bent ie it fits precisely. Take the RD off and see if you can see any movement between the hanger and the dropout by a modicum of lateral force (ie by hand).

A slightly bent hanger can exhibit the symptom I think you've seen/described. No it is not 'normal'. This is a new bike. It should be right. Put up with no less.