Any news yet? @Giantbadge
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TyrannosaurusTreks
Formerly known as Giantbadge
- Location
- Somerset
No not yet.
TyrannosaurusTreks
Formerly known as Giantbadge
- Location
- Somerset
Just found out the forks are gone again, same as my 2016 bike.
The 2018 bike has new frame and forks so the must of had a problem?.
There going to try and get me a 2018 bike.
TyrannosaurusTreks
Formerly known as Giantbadge
- Location
- Somerset
Well just had a call from my dealer & after speaking to giant technical dept they have realised there is a fault with the forks & have designed a stronger fork for this bike.
I have been asked me not to ride the bike until these come from the factory in around 2 weeks
.
It sounds like there is going to be a recall on this bike for new forks so be aware or contact your dealer.
Will let you know when bike is done.
I have been asked me not to ride the bike until these come from the factory in around 2 weeks
.It sounds like there is going to be a recall on this bike for new forks so be aware or contact your dealer.
Will let you know when bike is done.
OP
OP
Foghat
Freight-train-groove-rider
Tyres.
Having ridden this bike a fair amount now, I have some firm views on the subject of optimal tyre selection. Living and riding this thing in England, and commuting in all conditions on my appalIingly maintained local lane network, I've reached the conclusion that the supplied 32mm tyres are just too narrow for many of Britain's roads if tolerable comfort levels are to be achieved.
The frame is built very robustly - presumably as it's sold in some countries as a speed pedelec, with assistance to 28mph. Consequently, it is extremely stiff and unforgiving on bumpy and rough roads - so much so, that it's like riding a bucking bronco a lot of the time on my local roads. The only way to mitigate this is to use the widest tyres that will fit (with sufficient mudguard clearance), and run them at the lowest possible pressure that does not render them susceptible to pinch punctures.
Therefore, I now fit tyres around 37-38mm wide, which leaves manageable mudguard clearance (I use SKS Longboards). I don't pay much attention to numbers when inflating my tyres, preferring to judge optimal pressure by hand, but the lowest pressure I get away with is probably around 25-30psi. 80psi, as some people seem to use, would be absolutely intolerable. Running wider tyres at these lower pressures deals extremely well with the rough factor of the roads (i.e. most of the smaller wavelength irregularities), leaving big bumps/depressions in the road surface as the only limiting comfort factor.
So I have adopted the following tyre regime for my Road E+1, utilising multiple wheelsets to avoid continually taking tyres on and off:
Wheelset 1 (summer): Schwalbe Durano 38mm - side walls too thin for winter use in the dark on debris-strewn lanes, but hard-wearing with reasonable comfort and grip;
Wheelset 1 (spring/autumn/winter): Schwalbe Marathon GT 38mm - very robust, good for hedge-cutting season, but heavy and overkill for summer;
Wheelset 2 (all year round): Continental Top Contact II 37mm - excellent tread for when farmers insist on re-locating their fields to the roads (which is often), also good on leaf mulch;
Wheelset 3 (winter): Continental Top Contact II Winter Premium 37mm - winter-specific tyre (non-studded) that performs admirably on frosty/icy roads and in light snow;
Wheelset 4 (winter): Schwalbe Marathon Winter 35mm - studded, for deeper snow and severe ice.
Haven't tested wheelsets 3 and 4 in earnest yet, not having ridden the Giant through a winter, but I've ridden those tyres on other bikes previously, so know they'll work fine, ensuring I can commute by bike in all conditions. This winter should be interesting.
Having ridden this bike a fair amount now, I have some firm views on the subject of optimal tyre selection. Living and riding this thing in England, and commuting in all conditions on my appalIingly maintained local lane network, I've reached the conclusion that the supplied 32mm tyres are just too narrow for many of Britain's roads if tolerable comfort levels are to be achieved.
The frame is built very robustly - presumably as it's sold in some countries as a speed pedelec, with assistance to 28mph. Consequently, it is extremely stiff and unforgiving on bumpy and rough roads - so much so, that it's like riding a bucking bronco a lot of the time on my local roads. The only way to mitigate this is to use the widest tyres that will fit (with sufficient mudguard clearance), and run them at the lowest possible pressure that does not render them susceptible to pinch punctures.
Therefore, I now fit tyres around 37-38mm wide, which leaves manageable mudguard clearance (I use SKS Longboards). I don't pay much attention to numbers when inflating my tyres, preferring to judge optimal pressure by hand, but the lowest pressure I get away with is probably around 25-30psi. 80psi, as some people seem to use, would be absolutely intolerable. Running wider tyres at these lower pressures deals extremely well with the rough factor of the roads (i.e. most of the smaller wavelength irregularities), leaving big bumps/depressions in the road surface as the only limiting comfort factor.
So I have adopted the following tyre regime for my Road E+1, utilising multiple wheelsets to avoid continually taking tyres on and off:
Wheelset 1 (summer): Schwalbe Durano 38mm - side walls too thin for winter use in the dark on debris-strewn lanes, but hard-wearing with reasonable comfort and grip;
Wheelset 1 (spring/autumn/winter): Schwalbe Marathon GT 38mm - very robust, good for hedge-cutting season, but heavy and overkill for summer;
Wheelset 2 (all year round): Continental Top Contact II 37mm - excellent tread for when farmers insist on re-locating their fields to the roads (which is often), also good on leaf mulch;
Wheelset 3 (winter): Continental Top Contact II Winter Premium 37mm - winter-specific tyre (non-studded) that performs admirably on frosty/icy roads and in light snow;
Wheelset 4 (winter): Schwalbe Marathon Winter 35mm - studded, for deeper snow and severe ice.
Haven't tested wheelsets 3 and 4 in earnest yet, not having ridden the Giant through a winter, but I've ridden those tyres on other bikes previously, so know they'll work fine, ensuring I can commute by bike in all conditions. This winter should be interesting.
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OP
OP
Foghat
Freight-train-groove-rider
Well just had a call from my dealer & after speaking to giant technical dept they have realised there is a fault with the forks & have designed a stronger fork for this bike.
I have been asked me not to ride the bike until these come from the factory in around 2 weeks
It sounds like there is going to be a recall on this bike for new forks so be aware or contact your dealer.
Will let you know when bike is done.
Did they tell you the nature of the fault?
proton666
Active Member
- Location
- The California Abyss
Could you tell me what the heck the rear hub spacing is on this bike? Seems like about 150mm. Looks like a standard 135mm hub with and extra long axle. Do you use wheelsets from Giant?
proton666
Active Member
- Location
- The California Abyss
You just awoke the paranoid hippy in me! Calling my dealer tomorrow.
TyrannosaurusTreks
Formerly known as Giantbadge
- Location
- Somerset
I’m not that clued up with the internals but the problem with the 2016 bike was a metal sleeve over the alloy stem was at fault.
My shop said that it was .the same problem with the 2017, it’s strange as when I spoke to them in the morning they hadn’t been able to get hold of giant support.
When I got home last night I phoned giant & got through, they said it was unfortunate to happen twice but when I asked there must be a flaw in this fork & suggested the fork needed to be stronger they said no there was no problem with the design.
Ten minutes later speaking to the shop manager they then told me totally different, I suppose giant didn’t want to be telling a costumer they have a problem with the bike.
OP
OP
Foghat
Freight-train-groove-rider
I've been meaning to post photos of the rack (Tubus Logo Classic 26/28) and mudguards (SKS Longboard 45mm) that I've fitted to my Road E+1, so here are a few. Hopefully they may be of use to others considering doing the same. Load carrying is now a breeze!
The lower rack fitment holes are not particularly well designed. They necessitate using multiple washers (6 x M6) inside the seatstay cavity plus the wide spacer between the frame and rack leg, meaning a loaded rack will be exerting a hefty levering force across a sizable proportion of the bolt's 30mm length. For this reason, it is essential to use M6 rather than M5 bolts. Clearance between the nuts/bolts for the rack/mudguards and the rotor is a few mm, as the photos show.
Since the frame has no upper rack fitment holes, I've used a seat tube collar with integrated rack mounts, which reasonably elegantly deals with Giant's ridiculous omission to have dedicated frame bosses.
For the Longboard mudguards, I removed the SKS mudflaps that come fitted, as they are too stiff (meaning if the front catches on anything like a low kerb etc it will weaken and then break the front). I replaced them with long reflective RAW mudflaps, which are much better. The front flap is nice and low to the ground, helping protect feet, drivetrain and motor, but is flexible and so if catching a low kerb will just bend back a bit and not damage the mudguard. The rear acts as a good highly reflective surface shining straight back at drivers (although it appears black in daylight).
The front left mudguard stay is spaced to clear the disc brake caliper using a long M5 bolt and 4 of the very useful spacers that SKS now thankfully supplies with its Longboard mudguards.
The lower rack fitment holes are not particularly well designed. They necessitate using multiple washers (6 x M6) inside the seatstay cavity plus the wide spacer between the frame and rack leg, meaning a loaded rack will be exerting a hefty levering force across a sizable proportion of the bolt's 30mm length. For this reason, it is essential to use M6 rather than M5 bolts. Clearance between the nuts/bolts for the rack/mudguards and the rotor is a few mm, as the photos show.
Since the frame has no upper rack fitment holes, I've used a seat tube collar with integrated rack mounts, which reasonably elegantly deals with Giant's ridiculous omission to have dedicated frame bosses.
For the Longboard mudguards, I removed the SKS mudflaps that come fitted, as they are too stiff (meaning if the front catches on anything like a low kerb etc it will weaken and then break the front). I replaced them with long reflective RAW mudflaps, which are much better. The front flap is nice and low to the ground, helping protect feet, drivetrain and motor, but is flexible and so if catching a low kerb will just bend back a bit and not damage the mudguard. The rear acts as a good highly reflective surface shining straight back at drivers (although it appears black in daylight).
The front left mudguard stay is spaced to clear the disc brake caliper using a long M5 bolt and 4 of the very useful spacers that SKS now thankfully supplies with its Longboard mudguards.
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OP
OP
Foghat
Freight-train-groove-rider
It's a standard 135mm with standard axle.
Am using Hunt 4Season Gravel wheels as the alternative to Giant's wheels, because the Hunts are backed by a full spares availability, whereas extra sets of Giant PR-2s don't appear easy to come by, and likely difficult to find spares for (e.g. freehub). When the Giant set wears out, will likely have all Hunt sets.
OP
OP
Foghat
Freight-train-groove-rider
Thanks for that, albeit somewhat concerning.
I haven't taken the fork out to see what's going on in there, but guess I may have to, but then I don't seem to have had your problem. My bike did go through two bouts of unusual-sounding creaking in the initial few weeks after purchase - I diagnosed these as the plastic frame/motor guards settling into position (the sounds didn't seem like they were coming from the headset/fork area), and the creaking disappeared some time ago.
Will be interested to hear on developments with your bike.
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I've not fitted any mudguards yet being a fair weather rider, I was thinking of the small type we used to have on racing bikes many years back. still thinking about the smaller SKS ones.
Just noticed the mirror on your bars, Is that a Sprintech mirror? Just wondering if you can see much with them being on the small side, also with it being in such a low position to view, does it get in the way of the knees? @Foghat
Just noticed the mirror on your bars, Is that a Sprintech mirror? Just wondering if you can see much with them being on the small side, also with it being in such a low position to view, does it get in the way of the knees? @Foghat
