Hand Built Wheels

[EasyPeez]

I just read your OP and although 24 spoke is OK for your 10 St - I'm not sure is right to build a wheel with 24 spokes when you intend to carry a rear load.

Yes, that was a typo on my part, I meant 28, not sure why I typed 24.

Maybe a lighter rim like the Pacenti and 28 spokes..... just a thought

I am pricing up components now and once the Christmas madness is out of the way, hope to be in touch to commission your services if you're still available. I think I am set on the rims and spokes, but feel less certain about hubs now.

Why would you not use Laser spokes on the right side? Right side of which wheel?

I was just about to ask the same question....

Also, I know Chris King are highly regarded for components so looked up some of their stuff as a possible alternative to Hope/Dura Ace, but these prices?! Surely there has to be some law of diminishing returns at work here? Or are these hubs actually in some quantifiable way more than twice as smooth/durable/well-constructed as Dura Ace hubs?
http://www.sigmasport.co.uk/item/Chris-King/R45-Disc-Rear-Hub-Shimano-9mm-QR-6-Bolt/7L0J

 

[EasyPeez]

I don't think you should be too scared about servicing and adjusting cup and cone hubs. There's plenty of information on the net. There's a procedure but a lot of it is trial and error. The important thing is to follow the correct procedure and you will be fine. If you think you can change cartridges then I'd say you could service a cup and cone hub

Thanks for that.

Do you have strong opinions on cup & cone vs cartridge hubs from your own experience of riding and building? Do you have a favourite (or top 3?!) hubs of each type?

Cheers,

Andy

 

[Spoked Wheels]

Thanks for that.

Do you have strong opinions on cup & cone vs cartridge hubs from your own experience of riding and building? Do you have a favourite (or top 3?!) hubs of each type?

Cheers,

Andy

Mmm not really, there are some people that would argue that cartridge bearings only offer linear angle and that is true but on a road wheel, I don't think it makes much difference.

With cartridge bearings, you can get some really light weight hubs. The drawback with those hubs is that they have very small bearings and you have to replace them quite regurlarly.

Novatec offers some decent hubs for the money. If money was no object I would mostly build with Hope hubs.

As for loose bearing hubs, DA are excellent hubs but pound per pound I think ultegra are better value for money BUT thet only come in 32 and 36 drilling. An alternative that I prefer in that drilling choice is the Campanolo Record..... with a Shimano freehub can be found too.

Now, in most cases, you can't hardly tell the difference from one hub to the other when riding a bike. My current hubs, Novarec, roll on forever and further than most but I think the extra handful of grams of body weight have a positive effect on a slight downhill road.

 

[Yellow Saddle]

I was just about to ask the same question....

Also, I know Chris King are highly regarded for components so looked up some of their stuff as a possible alternative to Hope/Dura Ace, but these prices?! Surely there has to be some law of diminishing returns at work here? Or are these hubs actually in some quantifiable way more than twice as smooth/durable/well-constructed as Dura Ace hubs?
http://www.sigmasport.co.uk/item/Chris-King/R45-Disc-Rear-Hub-Shimano-9mm-QR-6-Bolt/7L0J

There is no reason under the sun why Laser, Revolution or other thin-shank double butted spokes should not be used on either side of the rim. As I've explained before, their durability is better and although they're thinner, they're still strong enough to accept any tension you can crank them up to. In fact, the nipple will round off or break before you can break the spokes in tension when building the wheel.

I think the reason why some say they shouldn't be used is primarily because they are so difficult to work with that pretending that they're "just not good enough for the type of wheels I build" is much easier than taking a bit more time and patience with the job. I say this because to date no-one has answered that question satisfactory.
It is not even a case of rather safe than sorry. The strength of stainless steel can be looked up on a table and the spoke's strength can be calculated from its cross-section, so even the strength is not a mystery.

 

[Soltydog]

Now, in most cases, you can't hardly tell the difference from one hub to the other when riding a bike. My current hubs, Novarec, roll on forever and further than most but I think the extra handful of grams of body weight have a positive effect on a slight downhill road.

Not exactly a glowing endorsement when you give them the novarec nickname