How irritating.

[Cuchilo]

I dont see the problem with Marathon plus , i have them on my winter bike , conti grand sport race on my road bike and hand sewn tubs on my TT bike . Ive never once thought i didn't like marathon plus . I may try them on my TT bike one day just to see what people are waffling about .

 

[Andrew_P]

To the newbies just keep doing it at home. Get a track pump for home use and CO2 for out on the road.

If that fails I think Evans cycles do some decent basic maintenance courses.

It would put me off riding if punctures were ride stopping.

Like most on here I might consider it for a folder but solid tyres don't appeLa to me.

 

[Racing roadkill]

My local bike shop has just taken on Tannus tyres.

The shop owner wasn't keen having seen many solid tyres come and go over the years.

The manager was a bit more positive, Tannus are only selling through independent shops, and each shop is given a reasonable patch - the rep won't put them in the other shop in the town.

Many customers will want the Tannus fitted, so there's less chance of my local shop being spanked by online cash and carry sales.

The shop has quite a few commuting customers who are not the least bit interested in cycling - the bike is just a tool - so they may be attracted by maintenance free tyres.

Each year a number of new cyclists buy a bike just to do the C2C ride, they might go the extra ton for no puncture worries.

I quite like the idea of Tannus tyres on a Brompton.

Mixed reviews on here, but the tyres should do for my push bike wobbling about town riding and occasional short trundle on a cinder track.

Many people’s opinions on them are based what they’ve heard, and aren’t based on actual experience of the tyres, I’ve ridden a lot of miles on them, including multi day 100 mile stints. I do realise they have their ‘quirks’ but the advantages far outweigh the disadvantages IMO. The 12 man Ukrainian national track team even fitted them to their outdoor training bikes. No one is going to win the Tour de France on them, but if you want to eliminate the possibility of punctures, then Tannus really have sorted the whole ‘solid tyre’ game out.

 

[Racing roadkill]

Riding the B round London I'm not bothered, as I can get the bus. But if I was regularly riding anywhere else I'd get them.

I'm highly suspicious of all subjective reports of tyres. I've read that Marathon plus are like concrete, Durano plus like wooden rims. None of these match my experience. I'm a tyre philistine, what can I say. I bet Tannus would be fine.

I’ve actually ridden lots of miles on all of the tyres you mention. The M+ are on my Hybrids, I have no issues with them, the D+ are on one of my road bikes, and I’ve hooked out some horrors, which have got embedded in the tyre, and not ended up causing a puncture. The Tannus tyres are on my ‘all weather’ Triban 520, and have served me well. There are a lot of people ( who I know haven’t ever ridden any sorts of distance on any of them) who try to tell me that they are all terrible, and their Continental tyres are great, at which time I have to bite my lip so hard it goes blue, as the Continental tyres are particularly dreadful ( in terms of durability ) as I’ve ridden a lot of miles with various Continental tyres as well, and had no end of problems with them. The advantages of the rolling performance of ( for example ) the Gp4000sII in no way compensates for the cost, and failure rate of them, in my experience.

 

[Smokin Joe]

Many people’s opinions on them are based what they’ve heard, and aren’t based on actual experience of the tyres, I’ve ridden a lot of miles on them, including multi day 100 mile stints. I do realise they have their ‘quirks’ but the advantages far outweigh the disadvantages IMO. The 12 man Ukrainian national track team even fitted them to their outdoor training bikes. No one is going to win the Tour de France on them, but if you want to eliminate the possibility of punctures, then Tannus really have sorted the whole ‘solid tyre’ game out.

That was sorted years ago. 28mm tyres with a couple of tubulars instead of inner tubes and you'll never puncture again.

 

[Racing roadkill]

That was sorted years ago. 28mm tyres with a couple of tubulars instead of inner tubes and you'll never puncture again.

The ‘super tube’ can still be undone by a nail.

 

[mjr]

The ‘super tube’ can still be undone by a nail.

And the solid tyre can be torn by a sufficient skid. So what?

 

[Racing roadkill]

I’ve got the 25mm versions to fit, at last. It took a massive amount of swearing, and a lot of hammer hitting, but they did go, on a wheel set with an internal rim width of 17mm. I’ll need dynamite to get them off again

I’ll give them a proper road test later today. The 28mm versions were brilliant, these are “new and improved” apparently , we’ll see.

 

[mjr]

I don't get a signal on my personal phone at home.... on the outskirts of Cambridge. I have to use the 'calls over wireless' function.

I do get a signal for my work phone - but only just.

There's a dead spot in the centre of my house too, but outside is fine and there's full signal within 100m. The signal log on my phone shows no dead spots on last weekend's 50mile ride. It seems pretty rare to have more than small notspots oudoors on rides now, so that's why I look at the phones, although I realise it's more common in places with unhelpful geography like the less populated Welsh valley roads.

 

[Ajax Bay]

punctures are the stuff of nightmares for me . . . so I now have Marathon + on, plus tubes filled with slime.
Went out today and did 40 odd miles with no tubes, no puncture repair kit etc (as I could maybe get the tyres off but know for certain I cant get them back on) and thankfully I got by but I know this needs resolved somehow

You are mitigating the risk of punctures by running M+s and additionally tubes with slime. Provided you keep the tyres inflated to a sensible pressure your MTBP should be long indeed.
But M+s are notoriously difficult to 'get (back) on'. You will never improve your ability to cope with punctures if you run tyres which:
a. Don't puncture, and
b. You "can't" fit back on your rim. (there is a good 'how to get an M+ on a rim' video which is linked to on here regularly.
Get another wheel and practise removing and refitting tyres (not M+)/tubes and you will develop competence (though not to the doubtful '3 minute' standard alluded to above.
Or go down the Tannus route.
Whatever you do, do not turn the bike upside down while mending a puncture - why would you?

 

[mjr]

Whatever you do, do not turn the bike upside down while mending a puncture - why would you?

Because if you put stuff under the bars and saddle, it's slightly better than resting the bike on the rear derailleur or cranks when there's nothing convenient/stable to hang the bike from by the saddle or rack?

 

[Ajax Bay]

I’ve got the 25mm versions to fit,

Are there any data on how well these grip and what their rolling resistance is, rr? Are they 'faster' than Marathon Plus (25w @ 60psi), for example? I thought you liked tread on your tyres. The Tannus tyre seems to be pretty slick.
A positive review from 'London Cyclist', noting that the tyres come in a range of colours too.
https://www.londoncyclist.co.uk/tannus-solid-tyres-review/
"Weight wise the 700×28 comes in at 430g per tyre, significantly lighter than a Schwalbe Marathon for example at 560g, excluding the inner tube and rim tape."
My M+ in (pseudo) 28-622 weighs 750+g.
In your ride leader role, do you (feel you) have to carry tubes, levers and pump anyway, to help those you're leading, in the event that they need help?

 

[Ajax Bay]

it's slightly better than resting the bike on the rear derailleur or cranks when there's nothing convenient/stable to hang the bike from by the saddle or rack?

Remove the punctured wheel.
Lie the bike down, drive side up.
Pick up the bike to replace the wheel.

 

[Smokin Joe]

Remove the punctured wheel.
Lie the bike down, drive side up.
Pick up the bike to replace the wheel.

I prefer mine tipped upside down.

 

[mjr]

Remove the punctured wheel.
Lie the bike down, drive side up.
Pick up the bike to replace the wheel.

In other words, having some of the bike's weight pushing sideways on the left crank, which is more vulnerable than saddle or handlebars. If there's nothing to hang the bike from, ignore the superstition and flip it over.