I'm going to get in trouble for this... but I think it's worth it :)

Page may contain affiliate links. Please see terms for details.
OP
OP
ChrisEyles

ChrisEyles

Guru
Location
Devon
No, I hadn't even thought of that! I had assumed the longer side of the spindle would have been facing towards the drive side of the bike to give the chain ring the clearance it needed... and the shorter end of the spindle would probably make the non drive-side crank contact the chain stay if I'm mistaken.... but this is definitely worth a quick check!
 

biggs682

Touch it up and ride it
Location
Northamptonshire
No, I hadn't even thought of that! I had assumed the longer side of the spindle would have been facing towards the drive side of the bike to give the chain ring the clearance it needed... and the shorter end of the spindle would probably make the non drive-side crank contact the chain stay if I'm mistaken.... but this is definitely worth a quick check!

its a trick that my lbs have used from some of my builds
 
OP
OP
ChrisEyles

ChrisEyles

Guru
Location
Devon
Damn, no, turns out the spindle was already the "right" way around, flipping it gives a very hefty contact between the drive side crank and the chain stay.

I think I've found a suitable replacement, though it's tricky to tell as there seem to be a few different ways of measuring cottered axles... it's only £2 on ebay though so it's gotta be worth a go!
 

ocianbricles

Active Member
A quick couple of questions for the fixed riders on here - how exact does the chainline have to be? To me this looks a little off perfect, but how much tolerance is there without risking throwing the chain and locking up the rear wheel?

View attachment 356734 View attachment 356748

Also the drive side crank is really close to the chain stay. I'd say there was less than 1mm clearance, which I guess means the two could contact one another if there's any flex in the frame or play in the cranks. Is this likely to be an issue do you think? If so, is it possible to "dimple" the chain stay using a vice and a bit of steel bar perhaps?

View attachment 356735

There is quite a deep dimple to allow the chain ring to clear the chain stay:

View attachment 356736

Finally is there any rule of thumb for what constitutes a good chain tension for riding fixed? The current tension I would be perfectly happy with on my single speed (freewheel) bike, but does it look like there is too much slack for a fixed sprocket do you think?

View attachment 356738

Thanks for the help! Looking forward to getting to grips with a new load of riding and mechanics skills for riding fixed!
 

ocianbricles

Active Member
"I just won this cracker" . . . and you'll get one! Voice of experience speaking.
You sure have, and if you don't get that hub changed to a proper fixed wheel hub [I've never seen a fixed wheel, single-sided gear hub that's been dished]. Take my advice and either put a single freewheel or get it changed to a proper fixed hub complete with a proper lock ring that goes on anti-clockwise. I sorry to be so blunt but maybe it's a proper fixed hub after all. At the moment chain line it the least of your worries!
 
OP
OP
ChrisEyles

ChrisEyles

Guru
Location
Devon
@ocianbricles it's a double sided hub, I assume for a geared freewheel one side and a fixed sprocket on the other (at least that's what my similar vintage ten speed has on the back). I'll check the lock ring when I have the rear wheel out (since I may need to flip the sprocket over in any case to get the right chain line).

The owner put some new aluminium rims on the old hubs (the original steel ones were pretty rusty, and I'm certainly not complaining about the upgrade to alloy rims) which may explain if there's an unusual dish on the wheel?

No worries about being blunt, as I said earlier this is my first foray into fixed gear riding so any potential issues are useful to know about. Since I've got front and rear brakes on this one I don't anticipate doing a huge amount of backwards resistance on the pedals to brake, but I guess it's always safer to do things properly. I'm definitely keen to keep it fixed rather than freewheel.
 

ocianbricles

Active Member
Hi Chris, I couldn't tell from the photo if it was a s/sided or dbl/sided hub. If you need a cottered axle I have a few and you're welcome to one of those for a postage stamp. The bluntness was just an old granddad's concern for your welfare!
In the early 'fifties most clubmen changed over to fixed-wheel for the winter season. Mainly about a 69in gear--in I my case. Mudguards, saddlebag, [Musettes for the League Boys] cape, knee-length socks, caps. Mind you, those were the days when cyclists greeted each other with a milkman's-style "yodel" if they were NCU clubs, or an "Up The League" greeting if they where BLRC lads. The response usually being: "Yer. Right Up".
 
OP
OP
ChrisEyles

ChrisEyles

Guru
Location
Devon
Just checked and the sprocket is definitely on a fixed thread (lock-ring is lefty-tighty with a step in the threaded sections of the hub), which is great. It actually looks like this hub is fixed/fixed rather than fixed/geared freewheel as I assumed, though it also looks like the threads on the unused side have seen better days.

@ocianbricles thanks a lot for the offer! If the spindle I've ordered on ebay isn't a good fit I'll take you up on that :smile:

Let's see, 46t chain ring and 18t sprocket with a 27" wheel is a spot on 69" gear. Mudguards and saddlebags also a definite yes..... not so sure about the cape/high socks/cap combo though!

I'll work on my yodel for when I'm out on the road ;)
 
OP
OP
ChrisEyles

ChrisEyles

Guru
Location
Devon
All the bits and bobs arrived this morning - very fortunately I had an unexpected day off and was in when they came, which saves a lot of faffing around picking them up from the post office :smile:

20170621_103502.jpg


First job was to replace the BB spindle, which all went fine. Unfortunately I think the fixed cup is not as smooth as it could be but it's well and truly stuck in there and is live-able with in any case. The spindle seemed a tiny bit of a thicker diameter than the one that was fitted previously, I had to tap the cranks onto it with a hammer, which is the first time I've had to do that with cottered cranks. Anything that helps them stay on can't be a bad thing though!

Had to file the cotter pins down to get them to fit, and they're still not in quite as far as they should be... but the flat face is fully in contact with the slot in the spindle, so I guess it should be fine from a functional point of view.

20170616_190426.jpg
20170616_190431.jpg


The chainline is now just as good as it was before changing the spindle, if not better.

20170621_194146.jpg


Most importantly, however, there is now a sensible amount of clearance between the drive side crank and the chain stay without resorting to hamers/vices and crimping the frame :biggrin:

20170621_194206.jpg
 
OP
OP
ChrisEyles

ChrisEyles

Guru
Location
Devon
Having some new tyres is a bit more confidence inspiring than the tattered old ones. These Schwalbes aren't going to set the world alight, but I've used them before and got on with them fine, they are a nice cheap and cheerful 27 x 1 1/4 option.

20170621_194230.jpg

Took the bike out for a short spin this evening and it felt lovely. The frame is a teeny bit smaller than I usually ride, but the drop from saddle to hoods is a bit larger, which compensates nicely and makes it feel a bit more sprightly, encouraging you to give it some more beans, which seems to suit riding fixed.

20170621_194323.jpg

20170621_194110.jpg


Unfortunately I managed to throw the chain on the way home - guess I hadn't put enough tension on it. It made a bit of a "bang", so hope I haven't ruined a new chain, that would be annoying! I'll have a check on all the links when I play around with the chain tension. The chain ring is not the roundest, and there is one serious tight spot to contend with. I might have to live with the chain binding a touch on that spot to maintain a decent tension the rest of the time.
 
OP
OP
ChrisEyles

ChrisEyles

Guru
Location
Devon
Also ordered some black fake leather bar tape to finish the bike off (found some very cheap indeed on ebay from china - monstrous shipping time, but I'm not in a rush). Couldn't help but eye up some of the old Brooks saddles there too... but will probably save that for another day unless a great bargain comes along.
 
Top Bottom