Joy of riding a Sportive Road Bike

[vickster]

Is the bike the right size? With the correct length stem and correct width bars? A bike fit could tell you all of these are not right, and thus you'll need to spend more on components, even a new bike if you don't think getting used to riding and developing more core strength will help!

Where did you buy the bike from? First port of call, I'd go back to them and ask them to confirm the bike is the right size

I've had untold issues caused by the wrong sized bikes in the past!

 

[gbb]

I think a lot of people got a bit fed up with twitchy handling 'racing' cycles and wanted something comfortable but still quick.

While this is true, newer bikes and designs do give you something older designs couldnt (as a generalisation).
My 1970/80s 531 Clubman is supremely comfortable, smooth, as fast as new bikes...but noticeably smooth. like velvet.
Why ?...its a relatively long stretched out bike with, compared to modern bikes, a huge fork rake. That gives you a very smooth ride, like having suspension. Modern bikes forks are much straighter (certainly older steel ones) which transmitted all the bumps straight up to you. Now we have carbon forks, we're getting somewhere near the comfort old raked forks.
But, the Clubman is (IMO) a tourer. Commute on it in traffic, its bloomin awful, like steering a battleship. Thats the rake again, plus's and minus's. You don't get that on modern 'racers'.

There's always a compromise, you gain in one hand, lose something in the other. We're probably at the nearly perfect position of having Sportive bikes now, taller headtube for comfort, without sacrificing much aerodynamics, carbon forks that are as comfortable as old forks, but with the added bonus of instant response (which some people call twitchiness...but that is just something you have to get through and get used to, after a while...its perfectly ok)

The worst time (IMO) was forks you got in the 90s, i remember my Raleigh Chimera, relatively budget bike, dependable, strong, but it had chro mo forks, straight as a die, you felt every lump and bump you rode over. It was like a bone shaker (but i still loved owning it).

 

[Levo-Lon]

Is the bike the right size? With the correct length stem and correct width bars? A bike fit could tell you all of these are not right, and thus you'll need to spend more on components, even a new bike if you don't think getting used to riding and developing more core strength will help!

Where did you buy the bike from? First port of call, I'd go back to them and ask them to confirm the bike is the right size

I've had untold issues caused by the wrong sized bikes in the past!

im happy with frame size and seat pedle position.
ive tried different stems and bar postions..im 5'8 with a 54 frame sensa sl pro..
Bike is just 12mth old from merlins so im on my own with that.

 

[vickster]

You need to ride more, perhaps wear better gloves. What width are the bars? Have you flipped the stem for a more upright position?

You could try a bike fit but if you're satisfied with the bike fit and set up, I can't see what it'll give you

Or if an MTBer, it may be that you never really get used to the road bike position especially if you've ever had back or shoulder injuries

 

[screenman]

G

im happy with frame size and seat pedle position.
ive tried different stems and bar postions..im 5'8 with a 54 frame sensa sl pro..
Bike is just 12mth old from merlins so im on my own with that.

Surely you maybe changing something that does not feel right.

Do you have a stretching regime, if not try it.

A couple of pictures of you on it may help.

 

[raleighnut]

While this is true, newer bikes and designs do give you something older designs couldnt (as a generalisation).
My 1970/80s 531 Clubman is supremely comfortable, smooth, as fast as new bikes...but noticeably smooth. like velvet.
Why ?...its a relatively long stretched out bike with, compared to modern bikes, a huge fork rake. That gives you a very smooth ride, like having suspension. Modern bikes forks are much straighter (certainly older steel ones) which transmitted all the bumps straight up to you. Now we have carbon forks, we're getting somewhere near the comfort old raked forks.
But, the Clubman is (IMO) a tourer. Commute on it in traffic, its bloomin awful, like steering a battleship. Thats the rake again, plus's and minus's. You don't get that on modern 'racers'.

There's always a compromise, you gain in one hand, lose something in the other. We're probably at the nearly perfect position of having Sportive bikes now, taller headtube for comfort, without sacrificing much aerodynamics, carbon forks that are as comfortable as old forks, but with the added bonus of instant response (which some people call twitchiness...but that is just something you have to get through and get used to, after a while...its perfectly ok)

The worst time (IMO) was forks you got in the 90s, i remember my Raleigh Chimera, relatively budget bike, dependable, strong, but it had chro mo forks, straight as a die, you felt every lump and bump you rode over. It was like a bone shaker (but i still loved owning it).

1 of my bikes is an ultra short TT frame ( its a 653 Reynolds tubeset handbuilt but no-one can tell me who built it as there are no decals other than the Reynolds ones and no serial No on the frame) but that is still very comfortable and stable although I've never ridden it for much over an hour/25 miles at once.( I had the idea of joining a club and competing in 10 mile TTs now I fit into the 'over 50' class but my accident has scuppered that idea for now)
This bike has curved forks which according to some advice I've had should be in 531c as is the rear triangle with the main frame in 753 if they are correct in what a 653 tubeset is made up from, others have said that it is 753 that is heat-treated differently, but it still rides very comfortably so I don't think its the length of the wheelbase that makes a difference. (Its so short that the rear wheel does not come out with the tyre inflated and its got 25mm tyres fitted)
Nice bike though (its definitely my 'poshest') and the only reason I've not gone any further on it is due to its total inability to carry any 'luggage' and the fact that I've got others with racks etc on much more suited to longer journeys sitting in the sheds.

 

[jefmcg]

How do you know something does not work until you have tried it? That is one of the problems when talking about things like this, a lot of the negatives come from people with no real life experiences of the subject.

Anecdote is not data. Trying something proves nothing. If something is 95% effective, there's a reasonable chance you'll be unlucky and have it not work for you.

And placebo effect is about 30%. That is, 30% of people will improve with any treatment, even one that can't possibly be any use (classically, sugar pills). So if you have something, and you get improvement, it's quite likely the placebo effect.

You can only learn is something works by multiple cases, preferably done in placebo controlled, double-blind experiments. And the result of that totally negates a single subjective experience.

(18 moths ago I had a real problem with my elbow on rides over 100km. It would lock up straight so I couldn't bend it without spending several minutes working on it with my other hand. I seriously considered getting a bike fit, but decided not to as it was too close to a very long ride so didn't want to risk a new position without time to get used to it and also because there was not much in google about elbow pain with cycling so it seemed likely my problems were outside the scope of most bike fits. Anyway, 2 days into my long ride I found the problem had suddenly gone. If I had gone to a bike fit, I'd be claiming it worked brilliantly, yet it would have been just a coincidence)

 

[gbb]

1 of my bikes is an ultra short TT frame ( its a 653 Reynolds tubeset handbuilt but no-one can tell me who built it as there are no decals other than the Reynolds ones and no serial No on the frame) but that is still very comfortable and stable although I've never ridden it for much over an hour/25 miles at once.( I had the idea of joining a club and competing in 10 mile TTs now I fit into the 'over 50' class but my accident has scuppered that idea for now)
This bike has curved forks which according to some advice I've had should be in 531c as is the rear triangle with the main frame in 753 if they are correct in what a 653 tubeset is made up from, others have said that it is 753 that is heat-treated differently, but it still rides very comfortably so I don't think its the length of the wheelbase that makes a difference. (Its so short that the rear wheel does not come out with the tyre inflated and its got 25mm tyres fitted)
Nice bike though (its definitely my 'poshest') and the only reason I've not gone any further on it is due to its total inability to carry any 'luggage' and the fact that I've got others with racks etc on much more suited to longer journeys sitting in the sheds.

The length of the wheelbase may not be relevent TBF, I concede that, but it is a supremely comfortable bike on the straight. I used to wonder if being a longer wheelbase (I'm only talking marginally of course), the top tube is naturally longer and therefor a bit more forgiving, less rigid.
The curved forks do appear to make a huge difference though, I think they act like dampers.

 

[Banjo]

im happy with frame size and seat pedle position.
ive tried different stems and bar postions..im 5'8 with a 54 frame sensa sl pro..
Bike is just 12mth old from merlins so im on my own with that.

Pain in arms wrist and elbows will be a result of too much weight being supported through your hands onto the bars.

Try moving the nose of your saddle up just a couple of millimeters ,see if any improvement. Tilting it too far could create problems with your undercarriage so make very small adjustments then ride to confirm.

 

[cyberknight]

Pain in arms wrist and elbows will be a result of too much weight being supported through your hands onto the bars.

Try moving the nose of your saddle up just a couple of millimeters ,see if any improvement. Tilting it too far could create problems with your undercarriage so make very small adjustments then ride to confirm.

+1
if i move my saddle forward 5 mm to KOPS i get pins and needles in my hands so i feel more comfortable just behind it .

 

[raleighnut]

The length of the wheelbase may not be relevent TBF, I concede that, but it is a supremely comfortable bike on the straight. I used to wonder if being a longer wheelbase (I'm only talking marginally of course), the top tube is naturally longer and therefor a bit more forgiving, less rigid.
The curved forks do appear to make a huge difference though, I think they act like dampers.

Yep, I never understood the design reasons for straight bladed forks. You can certainly see the front wheel bouncing up and down but transmitting little or no vibration through to the bars and gel palmed gloves deal with that as my preference is for unpadded cloth bar tape as all my bikes are 'retro' in style despite running modern transmission on a couple of them (10 speed Campagnolo on the TT and 8/9 Dura-ace on the Worksop 531 Raleigh) and I personally dislike the appearance of 'fat' bar tape.

 

[Flick of the Elbow]

My modern Croix de Fer has straight bladed forks, so too a Rourke I had built in the 00's. Both have lovely rides, smoothing out the road surface just the same as the curved forks on my Mercian. Clearly there are other factors at work besides whether the forks are curved or not.

 

[screenman]

I used to get pins and needles in the hands on longer rides, lowering the bars and stretching out with a longer stem cured that.

 

[outlash]

Can someone help me out here? My CAAD8 isn't marketed as a sportive, race, TT, CX or adventure bike. What the hell do I use it for?


Tony.

 

[vickster]

Riding on the road, or indeed off the road if you fancy it I wouldn't take it swimming though

The Cannondale marketing folks say you are:

Rider Profile:
Aspiring racers, fast club riders and anyone else looking for a high-performance alternative to carbon.

http://www.cannondale.com/uk_gb/2015/bikes/road/elite-road/caad8/caad8-6-tiagra