Need advice on upgrading 32T chainring

[Gazjacko]

From what you described I withdraw my ( go up a little bit) advice and replace it with suggesting you go for the middle of your current cassette range and see what the largest front ring is you can get on without fouling the chainstay and keeping a straight chain line. This will give you leeway both up and down the range for various levels of gradients. Ultimately it is always going to be a compromise as you’re trying to get your mountain bike to do a different job. That is why cyclists invented the N +1 equation for your bike owning requirements (where N is the number of bikes you have ) . Essentially you are trying to run to work in a pair of wellies!

 

[cyberknight]

Agree with the above, you might be able to get a bigger chainring or with a wider BB even get it converted to a double at the front but ulimatly the bike you bought although im sure its a great bike is not designed for what you are using it for .
My winter commuter is a rigid mtb with slicks with a triple ( i dont use the easiest front gear with a 48 largest on the front and an 11-28 at the back , mid cassette im getting 18 mph ish .

 

[AliShah2020]

Hi @rogerzilla @ColinJ @Cycleops @figbat @Daninplymouth @MontyVeda @CXRAndy @fossyant @Gazjacko @cyberknight

Thank you all very much for your time and input. I have carefully noted your responses and appreciate your experience and advice.

I am a fan of MTB's and new to cycling after 20 years off. To me they are the most aggressive looking, sexy, built like a tank, versatile (city roads and parks), fun all round no limit bikes you can have for a commute or a spur of the moment fun day out. I get a lot of admiring looks on this bike from kids, men and women! Hahaha

I can't afford two bikes at this stage and hence would like to turn my MTB into a good all rounder. On average I ride 10-15 miles in the city on flat ground on a day out.

I put great thought into the "perfect" bike and realised I still have a few mods to do to make it perfect for my needs.

My solution:
1. Jump up to a 38T narrow-wide chainring and new chain keeping the existing bottom bracket or 42T with wider bottom bracket (thank you @Cycleops as I did not know this was an option). I have attached a photo of the current 32T chainring and the space between the teeth and the chainstay is appox just under 1 inch to be on the safe side.
2. Stiffen air shock by putting 120 psi into the front fork (I weigh circa 88kg).
3. Tyres are 52 psi front and 55psi rear to decrease rolling resistance.

I have pretty strong gym legs, I would definitely welcome a bit more speed through a larger front chainring. It doesn't have to be lap record pace so suspect the 42T will be the ideal compromise for me - also baring in mind that London has traffic lights every 50-100 meters so there is a lot of "stop, start, stop, start" in which you lose the hard earned speed. I don't skip lights ever. Give respect, get respect.

 

[ColinJ]

The other thing that would improve the bike enormously for the kind of riding you plan is to swap the tyres for some smaller and lighter slicks or semi-slicks which will roll much better on tarmac. (They wouldn't look so 'aggressive' though!)

 

[AliShah2020]

The other thing that would improve the bike enormously for the kind of riding you plan is to swap the tyres for some smaller and lighter slicks or semi-slicks which will roll much better on tarmac. (They wouldn't look so 'aggressive' though!)

Thanks for this Colin. I have considered smaller light semi slicks, as soon as these wear out. I am getting a good leg workout with these nobbly Trail Boss OEM tyres.

Will slicks will make me feel like I am "spinning out" again as I imagine I would be peddling faster due to less resistance on the road or just travel longer per pedal stroke due to less rolling resistance?

I am considering one of the two below. Additional candidates welcomed!

 

[ColinJ]

Will slicks will make me feel like I am "spinning out" again as I imagine I would be peddling faster due to less resistance on the road or just travel longer per pedal stroke due to less rolling resistance?

Yes, they would make spinning out even easier on your current gearing, but once you have your bigger chainring then you would find it easier to spin that at a decent cadence.

 

[Gazjacko]

That’s a lovely looking bike. I have run a 26” wheel hardtail on road touring from Cherbourg to along the D-Day beaches . I ran with the fork locked out and on 1.5 slicks
Tyres don’t take up much room to store, cheange now and reap the benefits and store the others for off road times.
From the other photo your chainstay has a big gap for slightly larger rings but to my eyes I think it’s wise to offer up a 38 to ensure it doesn’t foul the frame. But if it misses go for it, it’ll be an urban weapon!

 

[AliShah2020]

@Gazjacko if you leave the forks locked out for extended periods of time is there any damage or harm to the fork etc? I am so stoked to have adjustable suspension for on a MTB, I didn't know they existed! I thought that was only on motorcycles. That is class innovation right there!

 

[figbat]

@Gazjacko if you leave the forks locked out for extended periods of time is there any damage or harm to the fork etc? I am so stoked to have adjustable suspension for on a MTB, I didn't know they existed! I thought that was only on motorcycles. That is class innovation right there!

No problem at all. It's worth knowing that a locked out fork still moves a little bit, it isn't completely rigid. I mention this just in case there is any worry about if and how it is working.

I rarely lock out my fork - very occasionally I might do it for a sustained climb but I often forget to unlock it for the subsequent descent!

 

[carlosfandangus]

Re locked out forks, when I used my MTB to commute on, I always had the fork "locked out" the only advice I was given by my LBS was to occasionally turn the bike upside down as any oil in the forks would not be "splash" lubricating at the top. I dont know if this is true though, It sounds reasonable

 

[figbat]

Re locked out forks, when I used my MTB to commute on, I always had the fork "locked out" the only advice I was given by my LBS was to occasionally turn the bike upside down as any oil in the forks would not be "splash" lubricating at the top. I dont know if this is true though, It sounds reasonable

I suppose that is a possibility - the top seal often has a foam ring soaked in oil. I'd go further to suggest that if the forks aren't moving then there's the chance of corrosion or pitting to the stanchion which could compromise the seal if/when it does next move. I think these are probably low risk though.

 

[Ajax Bay]

A suggestion: would consider ergonomic bar ends. Will give you better hand/forearm position when you don't need hands covering the brake levers. Others on here will offer knowledgeable suggestions: I have just got plain horns on mine.

 

[MontyVeda]

... Additional candidates welcomed!

I put some Schwalbe Big Apple tyres on my MTB...

big fat slicks (search for 'balloon' tyres, other types are available).

Personally i think its a travesty to put weedy little tyres on an MTB, and being slick, balloon tyres still roll a lot better than anything nobbly.

 

[MichaelW2]

A company called Specialities TA make almost any chainring for almost any crank. They are pro grade and popular with long distance touring riders.
It may be more cost effective to just buy the whole chainset, cranks and rings. Low-mid range Shimano is excellent quality. Note that larger big rings use shifters with a different curve profile. I have misused front mechs but the shifting suffers.

 

[ColinJ]

It may be more cost effective to just buy the whole chainset, cranks and rings. Low-mid range Shimano is excellent quality. Note that larger big rings use shifters with a different curve profile. I have misused front mechs but the shifting suffers.

That is true when it applies, but this bike doesn't have a front mech - it is a 1 x 11!