Non driveside chainstay protector

[jack smith]

Today on my ride i noticed a rubbing noise, turned out the rear thre was eubbing the left chainstay (non drive) same thing happened on my old tarmac where the left dropout had worn and a few frames i have seen have had rub marks in the same spot so i know its not just me, anyway i solved it on my tarmac by putting a small washer on the left side of the axle.

However i think with this one i just didnt tighten the qr enough as the dropouts are carbon and smooth the qr is also a smooth surface so i put it back on tighter with abit of carbon grip paste between the surface and didnt have the issue again but i am running 25 c tyres on a pricey carbon frame so dont want to risk anymore chainstay rub is there a chainstay protector that has a more solid surface than neoprene i could put in this area for reasurrance. I tried an old inner tube but it looks tacky and is abit too thick, i had an idea of cutting a flat peice from a coke can to size but if there is a proper thing let me know id rather risk the tyre than the frame!

Its a cervelo r5 with krysium wheels btw

 

[Hacienda71]

Helicopter tape is pretty tough and is not immediately apparent on areas where rub is likely

 

[jack smith]

I was thinking of that too not sure how it would hold up against rubber though?

 

[screenman]

I was thinking of that too not sure how it would hold up against rubber though?

Not very well is the answer.

 

[Yellow Saddle]

I think the chopper tape solutions is a good one but I also think you have to throw away your QR and get one with an internal cam. I am 100% certain that the QR you have on there is rubbish one with an exposed cam and nylon friction plate. You can't get a better QR than that made by either Shimano or Campagnolo and I cant emphasise enough how much damage and agony those other QRs cause. Tyres easily rub right through frames, not to mention the agony of creaking rear wheels which are never diagnosed. There is a product on the market that can easily repair that damage on your bike, called Q-Bond. It is basically a cyanoacrylate and powdered plastic of sorts. It builds up such damage quite admirably and well, and lasts as long as the frame.

Thanks for helping us locate the left chainstay. I would otherwise not have known it is on the (non drive) side. *





















* Note I have my tongue firmly in my cheek and am only teasing you about the NDS and DS pomposity.

 

[screenman]

Before Qbond we used Superglue mixed with baking powder, try it you may be surprised.

 

[jack smith]

Its not the left if your looking at it upside down the qr's are proper mavic ones dont know if they are notoriously bad but i would doubt it with the, being so popular?

 

[shadow master]

Have you checked the rear wheel alignment or is the tyre breaking up in one spot.rubbing of a 25c seems a bit odd to me even on a carbon race bike! I think I would try another brand or size of tyre rather than bodge tape/glue/etc...on frame

 

[Yellow Saddle]

Its not the left if your looking at it upside down the qr's are proper mavic ones dont know if they are notoriously bad but i would doubt it with the, being so popular?

Don't look at the label, look at the construction. Rubbish. You have the proof there on your NDS...I mean left dropout. What more proof do you need?

 

[Pikey]

Are they conti gp4000's?
They come up large, think the 25 is more like a 26/27.
If 25 is the max clearance for the frame could this be causing it?

 

[Yellow Saddle]

Before Qbond we used Superglue mixed with baking powder, try it you may be surprised.

I shall try it. Does the baking powder react with the glue or is it inert and only act as a sturdy filler?

 

[Yellow Saddle]

If 25 is the max clearance for the frame could this be causing it?

On these bikes clearance is minimal as it is, but the problem is wear on the drop-outs. A QR that doesn't clamp tight enough and doesn't have steel teeth, frets against the frame and eats it away. It does so on the vertical inside of the drop-out but sometimes also in the drop-out's slot, especially when a bearing fails and the axle turns. The latter problem is particularly bad when the axle is threaded, it acts as a nice rotating file.

 

[jack smith]

I think the dropout could be slightly worn but not totally so ill try some new skewers and a protector if i find any sign of rubbing on the protector ill seitch back to a thinner rear tyre too, but theres olenty of clearence for the pro4's when its centered

 

[Yellow Saddle]

I think the dropout could be slightly worn but not totally so ill try some new skewers and a protector if i find any sign of rubbing on the protector ill seitch back to a thinner rear tyre too, but theres olenty of clearence for the pro4's when its centered

Post a photo of the dropout. Remember, a washer won't work to prevent wheel movement. It will centre the wheel but it will still shift. You need a jamb nut with a knurled face, a QR with strong, steel internal cam and steel, not titanium or cotton wool skewer and a knurled QR head. A washer is smooth and will slide around.

 

[jack smith]

I ran a washer on the tarmac for a good few hundred miles with no movement, whenever it was taken out i coudlnt get to the end of the street without it rubbing , could you link me or reccomend me a good skewer then?