Orbea Gain

[Southernguns]

Which pedals did you use before? Do you ride out of the saddle much? I use the same as I always have on non assisted bikes - SPDs or Look Keos in the summer.

I used flat pedals before- usually fixation or DMRbikes, but I tend to ride with the ball of the foot on the axle of the pedal. With Pedaling Catalyst the aim is to ride with the arch of the foot on the axle of the pedal (they are huge and look a little funny on a road bike). It took some getting used to, about 5 rides, but I think I prefer them now. I have tried and used spd 'clipless' pedals before and get on well with them. I would happily use them now (or probably speedway pedals that allow more float) but I find flats much more comfortable and to be honest the difference in my performance between flats and 'clipless' is not enough to worry about, and I reckon is even less with the Catalyst pedals. In fact I reckon the only difference would be in sprints, which I have no inclination to do. I also have electric assistance to make up for any minimal difference that there is. Interestingly, when racing duathlons a few years ago I found that I would lose more time in the transition changing from running shoes to cycling shoes, and back again after the cycle, than I would in time gained during the cycle from using clipless, so I cycled on flat pedals in my running shoes. This is when I reverted to flats and I think I much prefer them.

 

[Southernguns]

Oh-sorry, I ride out of the saddle less than I used to before my injuries. I tend to spin these days, but I do ride out of the saddle occasionally and I find it really easy on the Catalyst pedals, easier than on my other flats. I think it is still slightly easier when using 'clipless' though. Please bear in mind that I am far from a serious cyclist, more of a runner that 'dabbled' in cycling so don't take my experiences as the norm for everyone. I am cycling more now due to my injuries and I could become much more into cycling thanks to my enjoyment of the Orbea Gain.

 

[Scaleyback]

Also for anyone that is interested I have changed my pedals to Pedaling Catalyst pedals.

So these are flat pedals, yes ? I guess if you are doing lots of ‘off road’ biking ( gravel trails) the ability to put a foot down asap is probably a good thing. Like Peter (above) I also use SPD pedals ( recessed cleat) I have the same pedals on my Gain and my normal road bike.

P.S our last two posts crossed.

 

[Southernguns]

So these are flat pedals, yes ? I guess if you are doing lots of ‘off road’ biking ( gravel trails) the ability to put a foot down asap is probably a good thing. Like Peter (above) I also use SPD pedals ( recessed cleat) I have the same pedals on my Gain and my normal road bike.

Yes they are flat pedals of immense proportions. They do seem to work though, and yes being able to put my foot down quickly on a couple of the gravel rides has saved me a few times now. I'm sure I would have had a few embarrassing falls if I was clipped in!!

 

[Southernguns]

I don't know if anyone else is experiencing this problem but the rear dropouts are slightly out of alignment on my Gain D30. This means the rear wheel is out of alignment towards the near (non drive side) of the bike. It is only by about 4 or 5 mm but it means that if I want to put a larger tyre in, say a 40mm tyre, it will rub the frame. I know it is the frame that is out of alignment rather than issues with the wheel as I have put other wheels in (without riding it) and they all align slightly to the non drive side. Is this normal to expect a certain amount of tolerance or should I expect it to align perfectly, especially as the bike is only 6 weeks old?

 

[ianrauk]

I don't know if anyone else is experiencing this problem but the rear dropouts are slightly out of alignment on my Gain D30. This means the rear wheel is out of alignment towards the near (non drive side) of the bike. It is only by about 4 or 5 mm but it means that if I want to put a larger tyre in, say a 40mm tyre, it will rub the frame. I know it is the frame that is out of alignment rather than issues with the wheel as I have put other wheels in (without riding it) and they all align slightly to the non drive side. Is this normal to expect a certain amount of tolerance or should I expect it to align perfectly, especially as the bike is only 6 weeks old?

I had the same problem with a Van Nicholas Ti frame. They replaced it under warranty.

 

[Storck]

I don't know if anyone else is experiencing this problem but the rear dropouts are slightly out of alignment on my Gain D30. This means the rear wheel is out of alignment towards the near (non drive side) of the bike. It is only by about 4 or 5 mm but it means that if I want to put a larger tyre in, say a 40mm tyre, it will rub the frame. I know it is the frame that is out of alignment rather than issues with the wheel as I have put other wheels in (without riding it) and they all align slightly to the non drive side. Is this normal to expect a certain amount of tolerance or should I expect it to align perfectly, especially as the bike is only 6 weeks old?

That's rather a large amount South. I would be taking the issue up.

 

[Southernguns]

I had the same problem with a Van Nicholas Ti frame. They replaced it under warranty.

That's rather a large amount South. I would be taking the issue up.

Thanks guys. At least I now know that this is not acceptable. Is this repairable on an aluminium frame or, like ianrauk's Ti frame, am I pushing for a replacement? It is going back to the LBS on the 19th so hopefully they will do the right thing.

 

[Storck]

Thanks guys. At least I now know that this is not acceptable. Is this repairable on an aluminium frame or, like ianrauk's Ti frame, am I pushing for a replacement? It is going back to the LBS on the 19th so hopefully they will do the right thing.

If it's a dropout alignment issue? Then it should be. I've seen a bike mechanic sort that out, using brute force.

 

[Scaleyback]

I don't know if anyone else is experiencing this problem but the rear dropouts are slightly out of alignment on my Gain D30. This means the rear wheel is out of alignment towards the near (non drive side) of the bike. It is only by about 4 or 5 mm but it means that if I want to put a larger tyre in, say a 40mm tyre, it will rub the frame. I know it is the frame that is out of alignment rather than issues with the wheel as I have put other wheels in (without riding it) and they all align slightly to the non drive side. Is this normal to expect a certain amount of tolerance or should I expect it to align perfectly, especially as the bike is only 6 weeks old?

I checked my D30. with a 38mm tyre on the rear I have 7/8mm clearance both sides between tyre & frame.
It is hard to see how your frame could leave the factory so out of alignment. I understand the frame sections are cut in jigs before welding and tested in jigs after welding for any alignment issues. I think the most likely cause is some sort of 'trauma' during transportation or at the retail location. I would expect your alignment issue to affect the handling in some (minor) way ? the rear tyre path is going to be different to the front wheel isn't it ? bit like a tracking issue on
car tyres.

 

[youngoldbloke]

Clearance on mine is pretty even within 1-2 mm, likewise the fork clearance isn't exactly even.

 

[Southernguns]

Thank you all for the feedback. I complained again today to the LBS where I bought it and he eventually agreed to take the bike today. He has contacted Orbea and he says they are sending someone out on Tuesday to inspect it.

If it's a dropout alignment issue? Then it should be. I've seen a bike mechanic sort that out, using brute force.

Whether anyone is really coming to inspect it or not I do not know - he is probably going to do what Storck said but doesn't want me to see lol.

He did say that it should not be out of alignment like it is and then tried to say I must have given it a real whack (cheeky).

I checked my D30. with a 38mm tyre on the rear I have 7/8mm clearance both sides between tyre & frame.
It is hard to see how your frame could leave the factory so out of alignment. I understand the frame sections are cut in jigs before welding and tested in jigs after welding for any alignment issues. I think the most likely cause is some sort of 'trauma' during transportation or at the retail location. I would expect your alignment issue to affect the handling in some (minor) way ? the rear tyre path is going to be different to the front wheel isn't it ? bit like a tracking issue on
car tyres.

Like you say, Scaley, you'd have thought quality control would check any issues like that before leaving the factory, so maybe it did happen in transportation or in the shop. There is no sign of any damage though. I didn't notice any massive anomaly in handling, other than when I road non-handed I did drift to one side.
I think the LBS might possibly have know about it from day 1, but I think they didn't fit the wheel fully into the drop out on one side in order to get the wheel more central. This didn't pose an issue on the road but as soon as I took it of road on gravel the rougher ground caused the wheel to move fully into the dropout which highlighted just how out of line it actually was. That's my theory anyway hehe!

Clearance on mine is pretty even within 1-2 mm, likewise the fork clearance isn't exactly even.

I probably would have been okay with 1 or 2 mm difference but this was is about 5mm, which means I cannot fit a larger tyre. I have 33mm on it currently but was looking at buying a 28mm and a 38mm set of tyres and swapping them for when I want to do either gravel or road riding.

Anyway, I guess it is just wait and see now.

Thanks again for all the advice.

 

[ianrauk]

I think the LBS might possibly have know about it from day 1, but I think they didn't fit the wheel fully into the drop out on one side in order to get the wheel more central. This didn't pose an issue on the road but as soon as I took it of road on gravel the rougher ground caused the wheel to move fully into the dropout which highlighted just how out of line it actually was. That's my theory anyway

I would say your theory is spot on. I know for a fact when I first got my VN, the wheel looked correctly set in the drop outs. VN tried to claim all sorts. Wheels, QR levers, brakes etc were to blame. In the end I took the bike to my LBS to check and they confirmed that one of the drop outs was miss aligned. In the end VN conceded and replaced the frame.

 

[Southernguns]

I would say your theory is spot on. I know for a fact when I first got my VN, the wheel looked correctly set in the drop outs. VN tried to claim all sorts. Wheels, QR levers, brakes etc were to blame. In the end I took the bike to my LBS to check and they confirmed that one of the drop outs was miss aligned. In the end VN conceded and replaced the frame.

My LBS are being pretty amenable so far so I cannot really complain, but I'm not sure how far that will go should it come to requesting a replacement frame. Hopefully they will be as pleasant and helpful as they are currently. My theory is just that, a theory - as I have no proof, but the rear brake has always been slack and they have never resolved the issue. This is probably because they loosened it off to allow space for the misaligned wheel.

 

[Storck]

My LBS are being pretty amenable so far so I cannot really complain, but I'm not sure how far that will go should it come to requesting a replacement frame. Hopefully they will be as pleasant and helpful as they are currently. My theory is just that, a theory - as I have no proof, but the rear brake has always been slack and they have never resolved the issue. This is probably because they loosened it off to allow space for the misaligned wheel.

You've thought it out correctly. Bike shops always setup brakes unless requested? With a close tolerance to the rim.