Petition to Shimano to introduce cassettes starting with 14

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Stompier

Senior Member
Unless you’re Peter Sagan / Cav et.al. ( you’re not) you’re wasting a whole lot of energy whilst using it / making life unnecessarily hard.

You really don’t have a clue what you are talking about. I would normally ask someone to explain a nonsense statement like that, but you would just come back with more ‘word salad’.

And btw, ‘efficiency’ has absolutely nothing to do with how ‘easy’ something feels. You are also confusing drive train efficiency with aerobic efficiency as though there is no difference.
 
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the_mikey

Legendary Member
I don't get all this 'anti-racing' stuff. A typical road bike setup of 52/36 or 50/34 combined 11-28 will give most buyers a suitable gear range for almost every application. It doesn't imply that you have to be able to efficiently use every single gear combo on offer.

This!

I rarely use 11t, I rarely use 28t at the other end also, but that's not an argument for having 12-23 cassettes! :wacko:
 
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MontyVeda

a short-tempered ill-controlled small-minded troll
It's always baffled me why cassettes are all fixed... surely it'd make more sense (maybe not financial) to have (in my case) 7 separate sprockets and 7 spacers and a lock ring... that way i could tailor all the steps and radios to what i want (or think i want).
 

Smokin Joe

Legendary Member
It's always baffled me why cassettes are all fixed... surely it'd make more sense (maybe not financial) to have (in my case) 7 separate sprockets and 7 spacers and a lock ring... that way i could tailor all the steps and radios to what i want (or think i want).
As I mentioned earlier in the thread they didn't used to be. And as I have said here before, that's how I ended up racing for over a season with two 18t sprockets on the back.

Anyone can make a mistake :blush:
 

andrew_s

Legendary Member
Location
Gloucester
It's always baffled me why cassettes are all fixed...
It's so that the shifting gates line up with each other (i.e. the ramps and truncated teeth).
There are about 3 versions of each size sprocket, and if you use the wrong one, you're back at old-style clunky shifting.

You'd also lose out on the weight saving gimmicks, where 2 or 3 steel rings are mounted on an aluminium spider, so your free choice cassette would be heavier.
 
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I just cycle on the gear I am comfortable in, never really looked down to see what ratio I am in.

Cycling is meant to be fun not physics.
The more you understand the physics, the easier you can make you life, and the more you should enjoy it. If you improve the efficiency, ( for a given effort ) you’ll go faster, or you can go as quick as you currently do, with less effort.
 
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Really how much energy over an hour are you losing compared to a 13 teeth cog and why?
Quite a bit, unless you’re spinning it at the speed and power you need to be to make it efficient. That is subjective, but ( for arguments sake ) let’s say 90 rpm, with a minimum 150 Watts. That’s very difficult to do, with an 11 tooth sprocket, and most commercial chain sets, with an average rider. It’s as much about the rate at which you’ll deplete carbs, if you’re out of the ‘efficient band’ as energy wastage.
 

Stompier

Senior Member
Quite a bit, unless you’re spinning it at the speed and power you need to be to make it efficient. That is subjective, but ( for arguments sake ) let’s say 90 rpm, with a minimum 150 Watts. That’s very difficult to do, with an 11 tooth sprocket, and most commercial chain sets, with an average rider. It’s as much about the rate at which you’ll deplete carbs, if you’re out of the ‘efficient band’ as energy wastage.

Awesome word-salad. Seriously, do you post from the twighlight zone, or something? This is absolute gold-standard nonsense and it reads as though you are completely clueless. Keep it up though, it's hilarious - as long as people don't actually take it seriously.
 
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