Whereas that’s true, that’s more a function of relative position on the hub, rather than the number of teeth.
Yes thats what I meant, extreme cross chaining is not recommended, whatever the sprocket/chainring sizes.
Whereas that’s true, that’s more a function of relative position on the hub, rather than the number of teeth.
Unless you’re Peter Sagan / Cav et.al. ( you’re not) you’re wasting a whole lot of energy whilst using it / making life unnecessarily hard.
That’s correct.Yes thats what I meant, extreme cross chaining is not recommended, whatever the sprocket/chainring sizes.
I don't get all this 'anti-racing' stuff. A typical road bike setup of 52/36 or 50/34 combined 11-28 will give most buyers a suitable gear range for almost every application. It doesn't imply that you have to be able to efficiently use every single gear combo on offer.
Unless you’re Peter Sagan / Cav et.al. ( you’re not) you’re wasting a whole lot of energy whilst using it / making life unnecessarily hard.
Really how much energy over an hour are you losing compared to a 13 teeth cog and why?
As I mentioned earlier in the thread they didn't used to be. And as I have said here before, that's how I ended up racing for over a season with two 18t sprockets on the back.It's always baffled me why cassettes are all fixed... surely it'd make more sense (maybe not financial) to have (in my case) 7 separate sprockets and 7 spacers and a lock ring... that way i could tailor all the steps and radios to what i want (or think i want).
It's so that the shifting gates line up with each other (i.e. the ramps and truncated teeth).It's always baffled me why cassettes are all fixed...
Sprockets used to be stamped with a figure '0' on the side and you needed to line those up.It's so that the shifting gates line up with each other (i.e. the ramps and truncated teeth).
There are about 3 versions of each size sprocket, and if you use the wrong one, you're back at old-style clunky shifting.
The more you understand the physics, the easier you can make you life, and the more you should enjoy it. If you improve the efficiency, ( for a given effort ) you’ll go faster, or you can go as quick as you currently do, with less effort.I just cycle on the gear I am comfortable in, never really looked down to see what ratio I am in.
Cycling is meant to be fun not physics.
The more you MISunderstand the physics, the easier you can make you life, and the more you should enjoy it.
Quite a bit, unless you’re spinning it at the speed and power you need to be to make it efficient. That is subjective, but ( for arguments sake ) let’s say 90 rpm, with a minimum 150 Watts. That’s very difficult to do, with an 11 tooth sprocket, and most commercial chain sets, with an average rider. It’s as much about the rate at which you’ll deplete carbs, if you’re out of the ‘efficient band’ as energy wastage.Really how much energy over an hour are you losing compared to a 13 teeth cog and why?
Quite a bit, unless you’re spinning it at the speed and power you need to be to make it efficient. That is subjective, but ( for arguments sake ) let’s say 90 rpm, with a minimum 150 Watts. That’s very difficult to do, with an 11 tooth sprocket, and most commercial chain sets, with an average rider. It’s as much about the rate at which you’ll deplete carbs, if you’re out of the ‘efficient band’ as energy wastage.