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12boy

Guru
Location
Casper WY USA
The brakes on drop bars can be a problem insofar as many folks habitually ride with their hands on top of the brake levers and find when down on the drops they can't work the brakes as they should. Getting 40 cm bars and a 90mm stem should help. Switching bars will require removing the tape so I'd delay wrapping the bar tape until I was sure the brakes were in the best position. Going down long hills will exacerbate any difficulties you have squeezing the brake levers so you might try a descent before finalizing placement. Be safe.
 

CXRAndy

Guru
Location
Lincs
Thanks everyone!

I have managed to find myself a Carrera Virtuoso for a nice price (see pics)

Going to have a look and pick it up later today providing all is well.

I do appreciate your opinions with continuing to ride my hybrid - and i have no intentions of not riding it. I just wanted to get a road bike so I can get used to the different speed of it, the narrow wheels, the drop bars and just all round training really.
I will use the hybrid on days when the road is a little wetter/muddier.

View attachment 503692 View attachment 503693
I would have the stem flipped. The part that holds the handlebars to the forks. This will raise the handlebars a bit. The handlebars and brake lever position looks a little low, so needs adjustment to make you feel more comfortable.

Sore neck, try not to ride craning by looking up. Ride with you looking down a little, but lift your eyes to look through your eyebrows. Do small rides so your body adjust to riding a racer
 

Milkfloat

An Peanut
Location
Midlands
If you pay a shop for new bars, inline levers, cables and tape you will be spending far more than you paid for the bike in the first place. For now I would try and get used to what you have with lots of short rides.

If you truly cannot reach the brake lever right now, then there are two cheap solutions depending on the exact shift model you have. If you are lucky there is a simple allen key adjustment to bring the lever closer, but I suspect that you will need to add some shims inside the lever. If you can find a model number on the shifter somewhere (it will be a bit like ST-2400) and post here we can tell you which you need. Worse case pop to your local bike shop and just ask them, if you need the shims then maybe they will have some floating around and will pop them in for a couple of quid.
 

BigMeatball

Senior Member
Oh boy, so many extreme and wrong/unnecessary suggestions.

Changing the handlebars into something 2-4cm narrower is unnecessary and a waste of money (IMO even more of a waste of money on an entry-level bike).

Installing inline brake levers is unnecessary AND wrong. Probably the wrongest suggestion I've read on this thread. Avoid this at all costs because it creates the awful habit of having the breaks in that position so you'll never get used to ride on the drops or on top of the shifters. Also if you have inline brakes you'll always be moving your hands around on the handlebar every time you have to brake or shift gears.

Just work with what you have, make adjustments to the bike you have. Get a good bike fit from your local bike shop.

And lastly, embrace being uncomfortable for a little bit. What people keep forgetting is how great a machine the human body is. It adapts to any situation, so if something is uncomfortable and sore, just give it time, your body will take care of it and it will all be fine at the end.
 

vickster

Legendary Member
I'll just add that I'm coming from the position of being a woman who has developed long term injuries from riding a bike that had bars that were too wide (flat and dropped).

Bike manufacturers fit parts to a bike marketed at men (as opposed to a WSD model) that they think will fit the average man of a given height with wider shoulders, bigger hands, longer torso, narrower sit bones. Thus, as a woman who is actually the same height as the average man (if not a little taller) but has narrower shoulders, a shorter torso relative to legs, smaller hands and wider sit bones, whenever I have bought a built bike I've quickly needed to change some parts.

A good bike fit from a physio will usually cost £100+ Plus the cost of the parts they suggest changing to make the bike fit the OPs anatomy. I've had three and every one has confirmed my choice of stem and handlebar size fitted to 'mens' framesets.

I like cross levers, I can brake from the drops but like most riders I'm mostly on the hoods, I can brake from these too but if I have to brake a lot (as I do, much of my riding in in built up areas), my hands can start to ache (I have joint issues too which don't help). The brake levers on the tops also give me a more upright position when in traffic, when filtering and the they stop the bikes as well as the brifters :okay:

My other female riding friends like to have these too for the same reasons.

I choose SRAM shifters as the shape suits my smaller hands better than the more chunky bulbous Shimano equivalents. I've done around 12000 miles if not more on the various bikes I have, they all have parts in the size I know that suit me :okay:

The parts and fitting might cost a few quid but less than long courses of physio to correct injuries from having a bike that fits poorly ;)

And they're brakes!! :cursing::cursing::cursing: Even the Americans know how to spell it correctly! :whistle:
 

Spiderweb

Not So Special One
Location
North Yorkshire
As above, you’ve not ridden a road bike before, the riding position for you will not be natural. I had a similar issue years ago moving from mountain biking to a road bike. Give it at least a dozen rides of the distance you have been doing, you may be fine with the set up you have or you may need the changes @vickster mentioned but give it a try first.
 
OP
OP
LibraRider

LibraRider

Well-Known Member
I was riding with my hands primarily on the shifters - so maybe the Shimano shifters are too big for me and I need to get a smaller set that are less bulky - like @vickster mentioned?
 

Pale Rider

Legendary Member
I agree it's a bit early in your road bike riding career for modifications.

But if you want to do something, a shorter stem, maybe with an upward angle could unlock your elbows.

Simple to do and need not cost a lot.

The brifters being too big may be a harder problem to solve, and won't be cheap.

They are all fairly large because they contain both the brake and gear changing mechanisms.

As a start, you could have a look around a bike shop to see if there are any brifters that you think would suit you better.
 

vickster

Legendary Member
I was riding with my hands primarily on the shifters - so maybe the Shimano shifters are too big for me and I need to get a smaller set that are less bulky - like @vickster mentioned?
Just get the extra levers. £20
New shifters etc could be 10x that
 

vickster

Legendary Member
I agree it's a bit early in your road bike riding career for modifications.

But if you want to do something, a shorter stem, maybe with an upward angle could unlock your elbows.

Simple to do and need not cost a lot.

The brifters being too big may be a harder problem to solve, and won't be cheap.

They are all fairly large because they contain both the brake and gear changing mechanisms.

As a start, you could have a look around a bike shop to see if there are any brifters that you think would suit you better.
SRAM manage rather better than Shimano...Shimano Dura Ace are nice and slim but silly money. Entry level Shimano are just chunky! (even 105 are compared to equivalent SRAM Rival)
 

nickAKA

Über Member
Location
Manchester
I was riding with my hands primarily on the shifters - so maybe the Shimano shifters are too big for me and I need to get a smaller set that are less bulky - like @vickster mentioned?

It's mainly a case of getting used to it, you learn to anticipate & shift your hands to get the braking performance you require; general riding, a 'feather' with 3 fingers whilst riding on the hoods is enough to slow you down. If you need to stop quickly, shift (one hand at a time) into the 'drops' so you can lever the brakes on with more force. Seems like a lot to take into consideration but it does become second nature with practice. I've got relatively small hands (for a bloke) and have thus far managed to stop whenever I've needed to :okay:
Inline brakes are a good idea if you don't feel safe and want to ride more upright. I've got an 80mm stem sat on the desk in the mancave if you're struggling with reach, I bought it cos my back was screwed and it definitely helped, back on a 100mm stem now so it's doing nothing. If you want to try narrower bars and any other bits put an ad up in'wanted', most of us have got stuff kicking around we bought and no longer want/require, you'll find most people will want to help - we've all been where you are.
 

vickster

Legendary Member
It's mainly a case of getting used to it, you learn to anticipate & shift your hands to get the braking performance you require; general riding, a 'feather' with 3 fingers whilst riding on the hoods is enough to slow you down. If you need to stop quickly, shift (one hand at a time) into the 'drops' so you can lever the brakes on with more force. Seems like a lot to take into consideration but it does become second nature with practice. I've got relatively small hands (for a bloke) and have thus far managed to stop whenever I've needed to :okay:
I've done lots of riding, it's not a matter of practice. I have a bar/shifter/brake set up now that suits me perfectly :okay: It's just not available off the peg especially on a budget bike
 

12boy

Guru
Location
Casper WY USA
Of course we Americans can spell brekas. We invented them along with the bycicel. Seriously, flipping the stem is very easy and usually all the bolts require the same Allen wrench. It's also fairly easy to loosen your saddle and push it forward if there is room to do so. If those changes make braking easier but you feel you are sitting too far forward you can consider a shorter stem or one that holds the bars higher. I have have to disagree with the "just get used to it approach" although it is true that drop bars intrinsically do require very different posture when riding in the drops and it isn't for everyone. That's why there are road bikes being made with flat bars. Aside from comfort, you really need to be able to use your brakes instantly and forcefully.
 
After reading your recommendation for the Aldi lights (Racing roadkill) I bought two sets, the free postage made sense to buy two, I normally use Hope R2 front and Hope district rear for winter commutes, however not commuting at the moment, so the Aldi one was bought to keep on the bars, side by side test the hopes won, however on full power the Aldi was close, and certainly good enough for unlit country roads, great light set and a bargain price, the rear is good too
I’ve used them in the middle of the night, in foggy January, on an unlit New Forest road, and managed to see the donkeys, and cows quite easily. The pigs are still a bit of a bugger to see, but they make grunting noises, so it’s not all bad.
 
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