fossyant
Ride It Like You Stole It!
- Location
- South Manchester
Don't get too keen !!!!
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Don't get too keen !!!!
OP
OP
Slick
Guru
OK, lesson learned.
mjr
Comfy armchair to one person & a plank to the next
- Location
- mostly Norfolk, sometimes Somerset
Isn't riding the wrong setup for weeks a bit masochistic?
SkipdiverJohn
Deplorable Brexiteer
- Location
- London
My early 1980's copy of "Richard's Bicycle Book" claims the optimum 6 o'clock pedal to saddle height to be 1.09 x the rider's inside leg measurement, based on some sort of scientific study.
Until recently, I had never heard of the Lemond height formula, but when I did the calculations for my leg measurements using both the Lemond and the Richard's methods, the results came out to within about a tenth of an inch of each other. I used to find the actual most comfortable setting back in the day was the Richard's calculated figure minus maybe a quarter to half an inch. That meant unless I had a convenient kerb on one side though, I would have to get off the saddle whenever stopped in order to touch the ground firmly. I suspect a lot of commuters tend to set theirs a bit low because they don't want to risk toppling sideways when putting a foot down in traffic.
Until recently, I had never heard of the Lemond height formula, but when I did the calculations for my leg measurements using both the Lemond and the Richard's methods, the results came out to within about a tenth of an inch of each other. I used to find the actual most comfortable setting back in the day was the Richard's calculated figure minus maybe a quarter to half an inch. That meant unless I had a convenient kerb on one side though, I would have to get off the saddle whenever stopped in order to touch the ground firmly. I suspect a lot of commuters tend to set theirs a bit low because they don't want to risk toppling sideways when putting a foot down in traffic.
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SkipdiverJohn
Deplorable Brexiteer
- Location
- London
[QUOTE 5090700, member: 9609"]where on the saddle to you measure too?)[/QUOTE]
I take it as a straight line from the pedal spindle, through the centre of the BB, up the seat tube axis, and measure to the top face of the saddle in line with the seat post. I've always tended to have my saddle pretty central as regards for-aft location on the rails, so I'm measuring to roughly the midpoint on the saddle.
I wouldn't call your ratio low - 1.06 is not that much different to 1.09 is it?. I've just measured a bike with the saddle set for my own personal optimum comfort and the ratio comes out at 1.07.
I take it as a straight line from the pedal spindle, through the centre of the BB, up the seat tube axis, and measure to the top face of the saddle in line with the seat post. I've always tended to have my saddle pretty central as regards for-aft location on the rails, so I'm measuring to roughly the midpoint on the saddle.
I wouldn't call your ratio low - 1.06 is not that much different to 1.09 is it?. I've just measured a bike with the saddle set for my own personal optimum comfort and the ratio comes out at 1.07.
Levo-Lon
Guru
I have all my bikes set at about 880mm from the pedal axles when there inline with the seat tube, to the seat centre.
As a rough guide that's about the same as my heal on the pedal with a straight leg.
Then when i clip in it feels right.
If i go lower i get thigh pump, higher i start to get calf and groin pain.
As a rough guide that's about the same as my heal on the pedal with a straight leg.
Then when i clip in it feels right.
If i go lower i get thigh pump, higher i start to get calf and groin pain.
12boy
Guru
- Location
- Casper WY USA
I start with around 35 1/2 " from saddle top to pedal spindle. Generally go with my heel comfortably on the pedal at max downstroke. If riding on gravel, ice or snow I drop an 1/8". I set my saddle so it is about level, and I have noticed that raising the nose even a 1/4" will change how much weight is on my hands. Handlebars as high or higher than the saddle will also throw more pressure on the sitbones but reduce pressure on your palms. Switching to a handshake position (bullhorns or drop bars) from palms down (flat bars) or moving the hands further back with a shorter stem is also going to put Las stress on the hands and wrists. I definitely second the idea with small changes in seat height and fore and aft position with a little ridingmin between to give it a chance.
GuyBoden
Guru
- Location
- Warrington
For what it's worth, once I got a comfy setup (in the1980's), I've used a Triangulation method to setup my bikes.
(I wrote these dimensions down in a notebook, these change slightly with age, mainly to a higher handle bar position.)
Centre of BB to Back of saddle.
Back of Saddle to the top of Break levers. (or where you mostly put your hands)
top of Break levers to BB.
(I wrote these dimensions down in a notebook, these change slightly with age, mainly to a higher handle bar position.)
Centre of BB to Back of saddle.
Back of Saddle to the top of Break levers. (or where you mostly put your hands)
top of Break levers to BB.
SuperHans123
Formerly known as snertos999
Bike fitting?
Jesus wept.
Jesus wept.
SkipdiverJohn
Deplorable Brexiteer
- Location
- London
My attitude exactly. Another silly fad where you pay someone hard earned cash for telling you something you are perfectly capable of finding out for yourself by trial and error. It's also rather telling that frequently riders don't even like the results they get from a "bike fit" and either end up changing their adjustments afterwards or even sometimes go out and buy a completely different bike because they still can't get on with it!. Cycling Snake oil.
Heltor Chasca
Out-riding the Black Dog
Best thing I have done to dial in ‘MY’ fit is to read Simon Doughty’s book “The Long Distance Cyclist” and use my bike trainer as the basis to a jig. Surely static jigs are inaccurate because when you power up your legs and upper body as you ride, all those forces are going to affect weight distribution, saddle height, angle etc etc.
For my purposes I want to be comfortable, efficient and to vaguely decrease my aero profile. And given that the riding I like is Audax, some of the above will wax and wane from occasion. I’m no expert but bike fit seems very subjective.
For my purposes I want to be comfortable, efficient and to vaguely decrease my aero profile. And given that the riding I like is Audax, some of the above will wax and wane from occasion. I’m no expert but bike fit seems very subjective.
SuperHans123
Formerly known as snertos999
I fiddle with bars, seat height (Seat not bloody saddle; I am riding a bike not a horse!) until it feels right.
In a few weeks, I may fiddle a little bit again.
Takes seconds to do.
Paying someone to fit me on a bike when I could spend that money on an upgrade seems like a big waste of time and money.
Snake oil indeed.
In a few weeks, I may fiddle a little bit again.
Takes seconds to do.
Paying someone to fit me on a bike when I could spend that money on an upgrade seems like a big waste of time and money.
Snake oil indeed.
youngoldbloke
The older I get, the faster I used to be ...
SuperHans123
Formerly known as snertos999
You can common usage me all you like.
Bike seat.
Saddle=horse.
From Wiki:- 'often called a seat'
My garden shed is not an unsaddling enclosure.
