Could be although seeing as based in US then unlikely. Maybe Walmart value brand or similar.
Silca hot waxing
- Thread starter Binky
- Start date
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Could be although seeing as based in US then unlikely. Maybe Walmart value brand or similar.
- Location
- Inside my skull
Wax is wax, fancier ones just have additives to smell nice
Dunno I'm not a chemist. I'd guess though some wax differs from others given different applications etc.
Yes, but it doesn't perform as well in wet conditions - starting to squeak earlier and requiring more frequent waxing as a result. I'm not sure if this is because the water causes the wax to migrate away faster from the contact surfaces, the water is aiding contamination ingress into these areas or a combination of both.
Also it's crap at preventing corrosion and your chain will rust to an extent (again, at the contact surfaces and not rampantly) if used in the wet. Over several years of year-round waxing this has apparently turned my wax brown with rust that's washed out of the chain - I'm unsure of its effect on the efficacy of the wax.
Finally the only pre-wax prep I do is to dry-brush any contamination off the outside of the chain to prevent it getting into the mixture. Generally I don't see the point of further pre-wax cleaning; although perhaps a good soak and shake in some paraffin would minimise my rust problem.
Since I wax everything and cover a fair amount of utility miles in all weathers (so wax fairly frequently) I've reached the threshold of my botheration at simply chucking the two chains I rotate into the pan once or twice a month.. those of a more OCD-led dispostion / covering fewer miles in better conditions may feel differently.
Indeed.. I can't help but think this is yet another simple, cheap process being packaged up, branded and sold on at exorbitant cost.
FWIW my waxing gear consists of a pan I picked up for nothing, a kilo of paraffin wax for £8, some moly powder (£12.50 for a load more than I've so-far used in eight years, and something I'm not sure I'd bother with again) and some hangers made from bent spokes...
EDIT: Oh, and a thermometer that came free with a turkey..
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PaulSB
Squire
- Location
- Chorley, Lancashire
I've often considered hot waxing. I have a good friend who has a regular routine for his chains. He seems to have the time and enjoy the process. Personally I can't imagine having the time, and I know it doesn't take long, to do this. I'm simply too busy with other things.
I do like waxed chains and I'm a 100% convert. After using a number of alternatives I've found the simplest and easiest routine for me. KMC pre-waxed chains and KMC drip wax.
After three months on my gravel bike the chain is still pristine. No matter how filthy the bike the chain is clean. When I need to change my road bike chains it will be KMC.
It's the smoothest, silkiest and cleanest chain I've ever run........and faff free!!@
I do like waxed chains and I'm a 100% convert. After using a number of alternatives I've found the simplest and easiest routine for me. KMC pre-waxed chains and KMC drip wax.
After three months on my gravel bike the chain is still pristine. No matter how filthy the bike the chain is clean. When I need to change my road bike chains it will be KMC.
It's the smoothest, silkiest and cleanest chain I've ever run........and faff free!!@
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I always thought I wouldn't bother with hot wax just stick (ba-boom!) with Squirt but seeing as new bike on way with of course new drivetrain etc I thought why not. I intend to only ride new bike in the dry and ride old in wet so wax should last etc.
Yes of course using a specific bike hot wax pot and wax etc is more expensive but I can afford it so why not pay for the convenience.
Bit like why do we bother with cycle specific clothing, GPS units, drinks bottles etc etc.
We could use cheap alternatives but at this stage in life I'll treat myself.
I recall when I started road cycling I said I wouldn't bother with a GPS unit, HRM etc etc and here we are....
Yes of course using a specific bike hot wax pot and wax etc is more expensive but I can afford it so why not pay for the convenience.
Bit like why do we bother with cycle specific clothing, GPS units, drinks bottles etc etc.
We could use cheap alternatives but at this stage in life I'll treat myself.
I recall when I started road cycling I said I wouldn't bother with a GPS unit, HRM etc etc and here we are....
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- Location
- Inside my skull
Cycle specific clothing - I don’t
GPS units - because they mount nicely on the handlebars and are easy to operate whilst riding.
drinks bottles - because they sit nicely in the bike specific bottle cages you can mount on the frame. Just wish you could top up water without generating plastic waste from needing to buy bottled water in shops.
teeonethousand
Veteran
Did you play B.A. Barracus in The A Team by any chance?😂😂
Fair point about the cost and I can appreciate where you're coming from; having let myself off the lead a little in this regard recently.
That said I still expect stuff to be reasonable value even if a bit of an indulgence; and I'm yet to be convinced by the wax at £80/kg...
I would argue that some of the other stuff you mention brings more tangible benefits to the table - technical clothing being far more comfortable (in terms of heat / sweat management and fit) and water bottles being pretty much a necessity!
Can easily put a regular water bottle in a holder on a bike. Everyone just about carries a smartphone so use that not a GPS head unit.
The alternatives are there but won't be as good. I'd say likely same with specific chain wax as opposed to melting down a candle.
We pay for a better product which is more convenient to use. And of course in some cases it's done for fashion and to have the cyclist look.
I wear cycle specific clothing as it's better, fits well etc. And pay through the nose for it as we all do. Even cheap brands are way over priced for what they are
scotsbikester
Über Member
You just do what you want to, and spend your money the way you want to. We all have different priorities when it comes to money.
I've just started immersive hot waxing, and so far it has been an overwhelmingly positive experience. I bought one chain "ready stripped", waxed it and rode it. Once I had confirmed that waxing worked the way I hoped, for cleanliness, I bought another two, but with the factory stuff on, and stripped those. I didn't go the StripChip route, I use Molten Speed Wax (in an Ebay slow cooker) and I don't think they do a similar product. And anyway, I had a lot of white spirit, meths, and an alarmingly large number of old jam jars. In the middle of the hot summer it wasn't a problem, I've got plenty of room outside, and so on. So I've got three chains, which I use on rotation, stripped and waxed. At my age and mileage it's unlikely I'll ever buy any more, certainly not for this bike.
I agree entirely with your last paragraph. I'm a relatively recent cyclist, and one of the things I've learned is that I can learn new things, and change my mind. Things that I thought I would never do I am now doing. Clipless pedals, for instance. When I first found out what they were I thought - "my shoes will be attached to the pedals, what?!?! That's crazy" But I bought some, with the shoes, and now ride 98% of the time clipless. Padded bibs the same - "they look weird". I tried some and immediately understand the purpose. And now chain waxing.
Oh, and by the way, it's "ba-doosh".
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Sea of vapours
Guru
- Location
- Clapham, Yorkshire Dales
I used to re-use the Shimano ones; probably 3-5 times before the 'click' on connecting became less convincing. I switched to the Connex ones as they are very easy indeed to connect / disconnect and that means that there is no impediment to waxing when doing so is marginal. It's also very handy for just taking the chain off whenever doing maintenance. They are 'not cheap', but then my chains are now lasting about 15,000km so it's hardly a lot over that distance.
SuperGalactian
Well-Known Member
Although I tried and abandoned paraffin wax years ago as a commuter, I remain curious about it.
One aspect that has always puzzled me logically is that since the wax needs heating to make it fluid and get it into the chain, it is obviously solid in outdoor temperatures. OK, the chain warms up a bit, but does it get as hot as your wax pot, even on a micro-scale, in winter? My impression with paraffin wax was that it was lost from within the chain by flaking out in tiny pieces. In wet winter conditions, the chain was rusty externally in a couple of days, and prone to stiff links in a week. (And that was despite drying the bike overnight beside the kitchen Rayburn!)
If pure paraffin wax is not the answer for that reason, and you really need additives to lower the melting point and improve adhesion and flow, you are inching towards those lubricants that go on wet and congeal within the chain (which is what I use) - and those have the advantage of floating the grit off at the time of application, and leaving a protective layer on the outside of the chain too.
In case it sounds otherwise, I’m not trying to convert anyone (although I’m open to conversion myself), I’m just curious.
One aspect that has always puzzled me logically is that since the wax needs heating to make it fluid and get it into the chain, it is obviously solid in outdoor temperatures. OK, the chain warms up a bit, but does it get as hot as your wax pot, even on a micro-scale, in winter? My impression with paraffin wax was that it was lost from within the chain by flaking out in tiny pieces. In wet winter conditions, the chain was rusty externally in a couple of days, and prone to stiff links in a week. (And that was despite drying the bike overnight beside the kitchen Rayburn!)
If pure paraffin wax is not the answer for that reason, and you really need additives to lower the melting point and improve adhesion and flow, you are inching towards those lubricants that go on wet and congeal within the chain (which is what I use) - and those have the advantage of floating the grit off at the time of application, and leaving a protective layer on the outside of the chain too.
In case it sounds otherwise, I’m not trying to convert anyone (although I’m open to conversion myself), I’m just curious.
A quick search shows Connex quick links around £25, Shimano ones £5 so overall about the same for longevity? That is 5 Shimano links for same price.
I have reused Shimano quick links with no issues, I'm not putting out mega watts that's for sure so chances of breaking etc minimal.
I've not used Connex before but assume the big plus is ease of use? No tools etc?
