A bit of background, please.
Purchased in August 2013 after i wrote my last bike off.
I suppose what most people want to know is how this bike holds up long-term. Used primarily to commute 20 miles a day on paths and roads it has suffered the ups and downs of most bikes; punctures, falls, bumps and knocks. It has remained in 'stock' condition for the most part, with upgrades being bought as necessary, rather than pre-emptively. This is the budget bike for the budget rider, and this is by no means a bad thing. The bike has been cleaned, thoroughly, most weeks which has kept it in tip-top shape.
Any significant events you want to mention?
- 10, maybe 12 punctures since purchase. Not unusually high, but necessitated upgrades in the tyre and tube department.
- Two falls that bent deraullieurs and shifters out of shape.
So, what does a 1000 miles do to a Triban 3a? Have you replaced any bits?
Well, a few things. The following upgrades have been applied to the bike out of absolute necessity (mostly):
- New tyres (Vittoria Rubinos) for the winter. Summer slicks don't cut it on my winter commute.
- New brake pads (Kool Stop Dura Ace) installed after the original cartridges became worn out (approx. 800 miles on the clock)
- New seat (Bontrager Affinity) for comfort. Having ridden a couple of longer rides on the original saddle it became apparent that my bahookey could do with more comfort. This was a preference rather than a requirement.
- New wheels (Fulcrum 7's w/ Schwalbe Ultremo ZX Evo tyres). Currently waiting to be fitted, but required due to the old wheels wearing out.
- New crankset and chainrings (Second-hand Sora set). Currently waiting to be fitted, but absolutely required due to wear and tear (one torn off tooth on outer ring, middle chain ring bent into an 'S' shape).
- Clipless pedals (Shimano PD-R540 SPD SL Sport) for competitive riding. Again, this was preference.
- Profile design Split Second AL tri-bars. Again, this was preference.
What upgrades where necessary?
- Brake pads. Christ, I mean, the stock pads could stop you... eventually. I had to learn my route well so that i knew when to start braking at corners, and on hills. Should a car pull out suddenly only weaving, ducking and bobbing could save my hide from becoming a cyclist imprint on the bonnet. If you have the cash, upgrade these immediately.
- Wheels. I persevered with the stock set, truing and cleaning, tweaking until they were perfectly aligned only for a single bump on my commute to bend them into a shape that would make a scoliosis victim shudder. The new wheelset was finally purchased after spokes started to snap on the wheels. Due to install these tonight.
- Crankset and chainrings. Now, don't get me wrong, the stock set survived a hell of a lot of abuse. But whilst cleaning the bike a week or so ago i noticed a missing tooth on the outer chain ring. Not just bent and snapped off, but completely shorn off. The metal remnants smoother than silk on the chain ring. Whatever took it out took it off with some force and then smoothed out the damaged site like sandpaper. Then, just today, the chain stopped shifting to the second chainring. Looking down i noticed the chain 'ring' was more of a chain 'S'. One rough transition on a hill and the ring had been warped out of shape. Not bad for 1000 miles on the clock.
Is the bike durable?
You know what, for a £300 bike it's built like a T34 tank. It has plenty rickety bits (top tip: make sure you tighten everything on the bike once you pedal it out of the showroom) but once they're tightened up you're laughing. A shade over 10kg it sits perfectly for a commuting bike, and with a little bit of adjustment (and fitness!) could be considered an ad hoc sportive steed. The falls and knocks that dented the shifters and deraullieurs took a pair of needle-nose pliers and a hammer to solve, and are still working perfectly fine today. I might have to buy some bar tape later on in the spring though.
How does it stack up against more expensive bikes?
Honestly, i wouldn't know. This is my first road bike, but if you're interested in how it stacks up on the road I can tell you I scalp Specialized Allezs, Giant Defys and your standard sort of commuter roadies on a daily basis. It's a light, quick bike with a nice set of compact type shifters that allow you ratchet it up from bimbling to balls-to-the-wall speed in a matter of clicks. In terms of durability it will be outlasted by bikes that cost double the value - that's the quality of components for you - but in terms of value for money it is outstanding.
Oh, and as an aside, i always lose out to carbon roadies. It's a fitness thing, nothing to do with the bike!
Has this bike given you the itch to throw a couple of grand on a Bianchi, or some feather-light carbon monstrosity?
The honest truth is no. I treat my bikes mean, and i don't think that i could be as rough with something that cost more than my car. I once owned an American Fender Strat; it set me back about £900. I bought it for the purpose of playing particular songs in my band, and it was a delightful thing to hold and play. However, knowing it's cost, i was afraid of denting, scratching or scraping it. My original guitar, a Korean-made Fender Squier Telecaster was extensively modified for the purposes of being my 'all-rounder' guitar and was knocked, dunted, scratched and cracked. It cost me £180. I loved that Telecaster more than the Strat, and sold the Strat very soon after. This is how i think i'd feel about investing in an expensive machine.
The real important question: if your Triban 3a was stolen/destroyed/wiped off the face of the earth, would you buy another?
Absolutely. The price-tag is a no-brainer, and because it's not a fancy-schmancy carbon monster, or an expensive Specialised/Giant/Boardman commuter you feel confident that it can take a beating and be hammered back into shape with proper love and care. The bike will eventually become a money pit, but by the time it does you've invested enough time and effort into it that upgrading it becomes a labour of love. Plus, you can choose the pieces to upgrade without ever feeling like the bike is extremely deficient in areas that remain stock.
If i had the money i'd buy a Triban 5, or 7, to ride sportives.
Would you recommend it to a friend?
Oh, absolutely. In fact, my friends who are keen to get into sportier cycling never hear the end of my Triban ramblings.
Purchased in August 2013 after i wrote my last bike off.
I suppose what most people want to know is how this bike holds up long-term. Used primarily to commute 20 miles a day on paths and roads it has suffered the ups and downs of most bikes; punctures, falls, bumps and knocks. It has remained in 'stock' condition for the most part, with upgrades being bought as necessary, rather than pre-emptively. This is the budget bike for the budget rider, and this is by no means a bad thing. The bike has been cleaned, thoroughly, most weeks which has kept it in tip-top shape.
Any significant events you want to mention?
- 10, maybe 12 punctures since purchase. Not unusually high, but necessitated upgrades in the tyre and tube department.
- Two falls that bent deraullieurs and shifters out of shape.
So, what does a 1000 miles do to a Triban 3a? Have you replaced any bits?
Well, a few things. The following upgrades have been applied to the bike out of absolute necessity (mostly):
- New tyres (Vittoria Rubinos) for the winter. Summer slicks don't cut it on my winter commute.
- New brake pads (Kool Stop Dura Ace) installed after the original cartridges became worn out (approx. 800 miles on the clock)
- New seat (Bontrager Affinity) for comfort. Having ridden a couple of longer rides on the original saddle it became apparent that my bahookey could do with more comfort. This was a preference rather than a requirement.
- New wheels (Fulcrum 7's w/ Schwalbe Ultremo ZX Evo tyres). Currently waiting to be fitted, but required due to the old wheels wearing out.
- New crankset and chainrings (Second-hand Sora set). Currently waiting to be fitted, but absolutely required due to wear and tear (one torn off tooth on outer ring, middle chain ring bent into an 'S' shape).
- Clipless pedals (Shimano PD-R540 SPD SL Sport) for competitive riding. Again, this was preference.
- Profile design Split Second AL tri-bars. Again, this was preference.
What upgrades where necessary?
- Brake pads. Christ, I mean, the stock pads could stop you... eventually. I had to learn my route well so that i knew when to start braking at corners, and on hills. Should a car pull out suddenly only weaving, ducking and bobbing could save my hide from becoming a cyclist imprint on the bonnet. If you have the cash, upgrade these immediately.
- Wheels. I persevered with the stock set, truing and cleaning, tweaking until they were perfectly aligned only for a single bump on my commute to bend them into a shape that would make a scoliosis victim shudder. The new wheelset was finally purchased after spokes started to snap on the wheels. Due to install these tonight.
- Crankset and chainrings. Now, don't get me wrong, the stock set survived a hell of a lot of abuse. But whilst cleaning the bike a week or so ago i noticed a missing tooth on the outer chain ring. Not just bent and snapped off, but completely shorn off. The metal remnants smoother than silk on the chain ring. Whatever took it out took it off with some force and then smoothed out the damaged site like sandpaper. Then, just today, the chain stopped shifting to the second chainring. Looking down i noticed the chain 'ring' was more of a chain 'S'. One rough transition on a hill and the ring had been warped out of shape. Not bad for 1000 miles on the clock.
Is the bike durable?
You know what, for a £300 bike it's built like a T34 tank. It has plenty rickety bits (top tip: make sure you tighten everything on the bike once you pedal it out of the showroom) but once they're tightened up you're laughing. A shade over 10kg it sits perfectly for a commuting bike, and with a little bit of adjustment (and fitness!) could be considered an ad hoc sportive steed. The falls and knocks that dented the shifters and deraullieurs took a pair of needle-nose pliers and a hammer to solve, and are still working perfectly fine today. I might have to buy some bar tape later on in the spring though.
How does it stack up against more expensive bikes?
Honestly, i wouldn't know. This is my first road bike, but if you're interested in how it stacks up on the road I can tell you I scalp Specialized Allezs, Giant Defys and your standard sort of commuter roadies on a daily basis. It's a light, quick bike with a nice set of compact type shifters that allow you ratchet it up from bimbling to balls-to-the-wall speed in a matter of clicks. In terms of durability it will be outlasted by bikes that cost double the value - that's the quality of components for you - but in terms of value for money it is outstanding.
Oh, and as an aside, i always lose out to carbon roadies. It's a fitness thing, nothing to do with the bike!
Has this bike given you the itch to throw a couple of grand on a Bianchi, or some feather-light carbon monstrosity?
The honest truth is no. I treat my bikes mean, and i don't think that i could be as rough with something that cost more than my car. I once owned an American Fender Strat; it set me back about £900. I bought it for the purpose of playing particular songs in my band, and it was a delightful thing to hold and play. However, knowing it's cost, i was afraid of denting, scratching or scraping it. My original guitar, a Korean-made Fender Squier Telecaster was extensively modified for the purposes of being my 'all-rounder' guitar and was knocked, dunted, scratched and cracked. It cost me £180. I loved that Telecaster more than the Strat, and sold the Strat very soon after. This is how i think i'd feel about investing in an expensive machine.
The real important question: if your Triban 3a was stolen/destroyed/wiped off the face of the earth, would you buy another?
Absolutely. The price-tag is a no-brainer, and because it's not a fancy-schmancy carbon monster, or an expensive Specialised/Giant/Boardman commuter you feel confident that it can take a beating and be hammered back into shape with proper love and care. The bike will eventually become a money pit, but by the time it does you've invested enough time and effort into it that upgrading it becomes a labour of love. Plus, you can choose the pieces to upgrade without ever feeling like the bike is extremely deficient in areas that remain stock.
If i had the money i'd buy a Triban 5, or 7, to ride sportives.
Would you recommend it to a friend?
Oh, absolutely. In fact, my friends who are keen to get into sportier cycling never hear the end of my Triban ramblings.
