Tubeless to be or not to be part 2
- Thread starter oldgreyandslow
- Start date
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- tubeless
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Cubist
Still wavin'
- Location
- Ovver 'thill
Try seating the tyre with a tube in. It should seat , then remove the tube and you've only got one side to worry about.
I'm intrigued about the valve though. Does it get in the way of the tyre beads?
I hate to say it, but a compressor using the air duster through the valve stem with the core removed is the best way to go.
I'm intrigued about the valve though. Does it get in the way of the tyre beads?
I hate to say it, but a compressor using the air duster through the valve stem with the core removed is the best way to go.
OP
OP
oldgreyandslow
Guru
- Location
- Farnborough
opposite to the order to the stans instructions?
It seats with the tube in but I have to remove both beads to fit the rim strip and I think the valve does interfere with the bead at that point. However the tyre bead is a long way from seating everywhere.
Appreciate a compressor is the best way to go, however I don't have access to one
Cubist
Still wavin'
- Location
- Ovver 'thill
Sorry, didn't see you were using a rim strip.... Comprehension fail. In which case the rim strip is sitting high for a few mm and preventing the seal because of the valve hole hasn't been drilled I expect. Drill the hole so the strip seats flush, otherwise you'll never get it to seat.
Cubist
Still wavin'
- Location
- Ovver 'thill
For the record, many rims don't actually need a rim strip, just tape, valves and sealant....at least a lot of MTB rims. Cyclocross may be different,
I have only used the Stans rim tape with a valve core on Stans Rims, (MTB) no problem seating with a Track Pump, isn't the CX rim kit used as an alternative to the tape ? I have used the ghetto 20" inner tube on MTB wheels with success, I suggested fitting the strip with the valve first to lower the profile around the valve so as not to foul the tyre.
Cubist
Still wavin'
- Location
- Ovver 'thill
If you put the tape over the rim strip, how does the air get in through the now blocked valve?
Cubist
Still wavin'
- Location
- Ovver 'thill
He's using s rim strip. You can't tighten the valve, it's fixed to the strip. If the tape covers the spoke holes, width doesn't matter.
You cut a hole in it as you would if just using a valve, the tape in this case is just used an an aid to seal the tyre during inflation, I don't think tape should go under a rim strip/valve combination.
Cubist
Still wavin'
- Location
- Ovver 'thill
Neither do I to be fair.
It seems a case of not being completely up with what's required, or why reading and following instructions matters.....
OP
OP
oldgreyandslow
Guru
- Location
- Farnborough
I followed these instructions with the kit exactly. http://www.notubes.com/detailed_kit_instruction.aspx
Point 1 leave on existing rim tape or use 1-2 layers of stans yellow tape, I used 1.
Point 2 drill the inner hole, didn't do this as it is the correct size.
Point 3 install the rim strip
And so on.
I'm sure I have followed the instructions correctly, the issue is definitely getting the tyre to seat. The bead just will not shift to the outside of the rim.
Jody
Stubborn git
You only option is the ghetto bottle method if it offers enough air flow to push your tyre onto the rim to seat or a compressor. Its the volume of air as quick blast that will push your tyre onto the rim.
http://singletrackworld.com/forum/topic/ghetto-tubeless-inflator-total-cost-9p - Use this method at your own risk!
I stand corrected,
I think I have misundestood your post, have you used the thin yellow spoke tape under the rim sealing strip ? when you said Yellow Tape I assumed you had put this stuff http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/stans-no-tubes-rim-tape-2015/rp-prod38829 under,
when its probably this, http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/stans-no-tubes-universal-kit-tape/rp-prod138108
