Under unit Kitchen lighting

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Colin_P

Guru
I’ve found that a single run of LED tape under the units is generally enough.
I’ve been using this https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00JQV6SFU (warm white) and this https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00JQV6U7Q (daylight white), which is around 12-13 pounds for a 5m length.

I've done this, they've been in a few years now without issue also as a replacement of those old fashioned slim fluro tube units which only lasted a few months.

I have a two strips (for better light distribution) of 3528 leds in warm white, brilliant. With a bit of research you can work out the wattage of the transformer(s) you need. A very cost effective solution if you buy the strip and transformers. When I did this there were brighter 5050 leds available and so I believe even brighter ones these days.
 

flake99please

We all scream for ice cream
Location
Edinburgh
If you're headed to IKEA, why not check in Costco also. They have those LED rope lights available.
 

bruce1530

Guru
Location
Ayrshire
There's a little adaptor which fits to the end of the cut section to allow you to make the power connections. You get a few of these with the kit, and can buy more. Or if you're handy with a soldering iron, you can just tag some wire tails onto the end of the strip.
 
OP
OP
Scoosh

Scoosh

Velocouchiste
Moderator
Location
Edinburgh
Currently I have 4 separate 'zones', all with their own power supplies in parallel to the main light switch. I think I would need an adaptor for each supply to connect to the cut sections of LED tape. Sound right ? (I've got a sparky coming to do some other work this am, so will check with him too :okay:)
 

Colin_P

Guru
You could buy a full roll (or two or three or....) of the led strip and cut it to length(s) then buy an appropriately sized transformer for each zone.

5m run of 3528 LED strip = £5.99
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/5M-Strip-...227180?hash=item3abdab5bec:g:0bwAAOSwezVWxCnD

50w LED transformer as an example = £9.99
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/UK-STOCK-...hash=item43ce85833f:m:m9JNnZvwaUy4-jcP42SfLXw

For the 3528 LEDs the power requirement is 4.8w per metre run
For the 5050 LEDs it is 14.4w per metre run

When I specified / worked out my trannies I upsized them by about 50%, so assuming you need to power a 2m run of 5050's that is (roughly) 2x 14.4w = (say) 30w and this instance I would choose a 50w tranny. Made sure whatever tranny you choose that it is a dedicated / designed for LEDs one.

If you are handy with a soldering iron then you can do the low voltage 12v interconnects yourself but if you do some more searching they sell pre-made ones.

Don't be put off, it is really easy to do and they really are fantastic compared to those hateful old fluro lights. I made mine up on a timber batten, mounted the LED strip (with extra glue) and trannies to the batten then fixed it under the cupboards, much easier in my mind. They have been is a few years now and despite partly living directly under the kettle and toaster are doing well.
 
We have halogens (not yet replaced); they provide good enough lighting for us. Our main kitchen lights are now LED-replacements for the original halogens. We had to replace the wiring etc at the same time to run them off the mains without a transformer as either the LEDs or the transformer (or the combination) completely scuppered our DAB signal when the lights were on. (We only haven't replaced the halogens yet as we're intending a major kitchen refit, although it's dragging out quite considerably). I think we've only changed one halogen bulb in 4 years of living in the house.
 

Colin_P

Guru
T
We have halogens (not yet replaced); they provide good enough lighting for us. Our main kitchen lights are now LED-replacements for the original halogens. We had to replace the wiring etc at the same time to run them off the mains without a transformer as either the LEDs or the transformer (or the combination) completely scuppered our DAB signal when the lights were on. (We only haven't replaced the halogens yet as we're intending a major kitchen refit, although it's dragging out quite considerably). I think we've only changed one halogen bulb in 4 years of living in the house.

The LED halogen replacements are also fantastic no matter if you have 240v GU10's or 12v MR16's. I also did this a while back, they use way less power and are brighter! In particular we really noticed it on the MR16's which in halogen form were 20w bulbs, the LED replacements are 4w (I think) and are as bright as the GU10. A massive improvement all round. It was strange throwing all the old glass bulbs away (in the reccyling bin at the dump).

If you go to somewhere like screwfix, they do multipacks of the LEDs for a reasonable price.
 

jonny jeez

Legendary Member
We have a number of T4 fluorescent tubes (7x 500 and 1x 370mm holder size) for under unit lighting in our kitchen, linked together 'daisy-chain' style with, I think, just the 1 mains power supply.

Frankly, they are rubbish :angry:; the tubes give up after about 3 months, get replaced, then soon the holders won't even fire up the lights at all, so the kitchen has been getting darker and darker as the lights won't work ... :sad: They are not exposed to excessive heat nor any steam.

I'm totally scunnered** with them and have decided they need to be replaced ... but with what ? :scratch:

I would really like a version where I can use the existing brackets and just replace the holders with new-light compatible ones. The light output from the T4s has been fine ... when they worked.

So what is best to daisy-chain around the kitchen, gives very similar light to the T4s, at best price/ running costs ? LEDs, T5s ?

Advice welcome.
Thanks



** for those unfamiliar ...
Have you replaced the starters as well as the tubes?

Cheap and simple to do. It could be that the lamps are actually fine.

Worth checking.

If not then yep, led is the way forward
 
T
The LED halogen replacements are also fantastic no matter if you have 240v GU10's or 12v MR16's.
yeah, had no issues with light output from the 12v's it was just the complete obliteration of the DAB radio signal! And wiring them directly means one less thing to go wrong. Our LEDs are from Screwfix, the LAP (?) brand seems good.
 
Ballasts wear out over time as well as starters.

An option is to get an LED T4 tube. Uses your existing fittings, you just pull the starting circuit out of the fitting, and rewire directly to the tube
 

Colin_P

Guru
yeah, had no issues with light output from the 12v's it was just the complete obliteration of the DAB radio signal! And wiring them directly means one less thing to go wrong. Our LEDs are from Screwfix, the LAP (?) brand seems good.

Yep, I bought a couple of 5 packs of the LAP LEDs, mainly as replacements to 20w MR16s. But elsewhere in the house we had lots of GU10's. All are now LED and we have reduced our energy consumption by about 80% with the best bit being the LEDs are brighter with that saving on the juice.

I'm now turning my attention to the normal bulbs we have, most are those horrible fluro ones that take two minutes to warm up. I'd like to go instant light LED'edness on them but for the time being we'll put up with the warmup time. I think ultimately it is something that'll just have to be done as the damned things last forever so waiting for them to blow could take a while...
 
I'm now turning my attention to the normal bulbs we have, most are those horrible fluro ones that take two minutes to warm up. I'd like to go instant light LED'edness on them but for the time being we'll put up with the warmup time. I think ultimately it is something that'll just have to be done as the damned things last forever so waiting for them to blow could take a while...
We have BioBulbs which are florescent but instant on - they're not as low energy as some but are daylight spectrum. Since we've started using them (8 years?) only had to replace one broken one. Our nearly-completely-blind neighbour also has them now and is impressed (she has some light/dark vision). Ocado sell them, often on sale, or (eg) Nigel's Ecostore.
 
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