What Have You Fettled Today?

Page may contain affiliate links. Please see terms for details.

philtalksbx

Über Member
Location
Oxford
I decided to take the Record Ace back to downtube shifting as I have a cunning plan for the Tiagra group set. The parts box gave up a lovely Campagnolo Veloce triple crankset and a Daytona triple mech. That plus Shimano 7 speed Exage with indexed shifters have made a very nice set. From an icy garage, the first ride was in freezing cold drizzle but I hardly noticed it as the ride was so good.
 

DCLane

Found in the Yorkshire hills ...
Been busy last weekend - not with bikes, although my Raleigh Superbe is finished (must get photos!) and I cleaned and put new tyres on two others, but this:

PXL_20210201_151113067.jpg


Rug (£20 for a 9' x 7' rug that's great if you're colour-blind) plus mat and sort-out to create a warmer workshop area in the conservatory. Bike stands, tools, rollers (another set's out of shot along with a track bike to the right plus a turbo trainer and trolley for race day), parts for 'jobs to do' on one shelf and all the other bits I need organised.

I've still got the parts store which holds everything I need but there's no space in there for a workshop area. It's not pretty but functional and has my son's 'race box' of parts/tools, tools set out, lubricants, chainrings for track, hillclimb bike box of bits and most other things I use there along with my Christmas present ultrasonic cleaner. The desk's from work when I need to work out of my wife's office that I currently occupy most days so I can't put a vice onto it unfortunately.
 
Last edited:

si_c

Guru
Location
Wirral
Found my shimano bleed block doing some tidying up, reminded me the brakes on the Racelight were starting to have a fair bit of lever pull - checked the pads and they were below 1mm, so swapped in some N&T ceramic pads to replace the stock shimano ones. The backing plate on these is a tad thicker than the shimano ones, so it's rubbing a bit on the rotor even with the pistons fully retracted. Will probably get some sandpaper on it later this week to ease it back - don't want to glaze the pads unnecessarily.
 

Gunk

Guru
Location
Oxford
Put yet another saddle on the Van Nic, third time lucky, I like this one!

9F440CB7-4248-44A4-966F-2C80F56F405F.jpeg
 

Ming the Merciless

There is no mercy
Photo Winner
Location
Inside my skull
Serviced rear wheel bearings. Basically take QR out, cassette off, undo left hand locknut, then remove locknut, spacer and cone. Remove the axel catching any ball bearings. Remove the seal using a flat screw driver to ease it out. Remove and clean ball bearings both sides. Replace if necessary. Clean the cup and cones. Clean the seals. Grease RH cup, put ball bearings in, add more grease. Add seals, bit more grease. Do same for LH cup. Grease RH cone and threads of axel. Insert axel from RH side. Make sure inserted probably and no balls knocked out. Turn axel by hand to check nice and smooth. Grease LH cone and threads. Finger tighten LH cone then back off 1/4 turn. Add spacer then locknut. Tighten locknut against cone using the thin 15/17mm spanners. Check there is a minor bit of play in axel and that wheel spins smoothly in hands.

Overall about an hour elapsed, including cleaning the wheel first before opening up the hub. Nice satisfying and simple work. Love working on the bikes when it’s routine maintenance. Normally aim to check hubs once a year, but this was prompted by a flood that went over hubs last Sat. Didn’t want to ride bike again till I’d checked both front and rear hubs.

Now enjoying lunch and getting warm again. Will head out for test ride later.
 

Attachments

  • 1C47C8BD-1F38-4082-95CC-7214FE1A8271.jpeg
    1C47C8BD-1F38-4082-95CC-7214FE1A8271.jpeg
    147.8 KB · Views: 7
  • 28B7F2FB-3357-4894-BEB7-CBCCE4E42FFA.jpeg
    28B7F2FB-3357-4894-BEB7-CBCCE4E42FFA.jpeg
    128.4 KB · Views: 7
  • 323B7E7C-C34B-4F98-8B7F-7DABA9A7D982.jpeg
    323B7E7C-C34B-4F98-8B7F-7DABA9A7D982.jpeg
    120.8 KB · Views: 8
  • 5ABED7F9-A835-44BF-ACCC-E52A9759AC90.jpeg
    5ABED7F9-A835-44BF-ACCC-E52A9759AC90.jpeg
    133.6 KB · Views: 7
  • 7D6812F7-2AC7-40E0-99F3-133F831D2E43.jpeg
    7D6812F7-2AC7-40E0-99F3-133F831D2E43.jpeg
    102.1 KB · Views: 6
  • 4C6AA1BC-F449-4EAE-8DD7-DFCCA9EA1C9A.jpeg
    4C6AA1BC-F449-4EAE-8DD7-DFCCA9EA1C9A.jpeg
    194 KB · Views: 6
Last edited:

Leaway2

Lycrist
The Garmin 200 has been showing battery low after only about an hours ride. I've ridden an imp century in the past and it lasted OK, so I have changed the battery. The replacement (£10 from Ebay) was 600 mAh. When I opened up the Garmin the original was 700mAh.
garmin11.jpg

Took out the display and removed the circuit board. Removed the speaker wires and soldered the new battery in.
garmin22.jpg

A bit fiddly, but do-able. I was surprised that when I switched on after replacement, my rides and courses were still there, so there must be back up battery/capacitor.
 
Last edited:

12boy

Guru
Location
Casper WY USA
Bought half a dozen arrows yesterday which will require gluing in the knocks and point inserts. Also brought a couple of 26" wheels from my storage area to break down and see if the cups and cones are good. If so, I will grease em up and true em if needed. Good to have a couple of indoor projects.
 
Top Bottom