What Have You Fettled Today?

Page may contain affiliate links. Please see terms for details.
Had some old sliding gate rollers lying about, so decided to put one to good use by making it into a cotter pin removal tool
1612790628485.jpeg


Raided the scrap bin for some other odds and ends, and voila
1612790734826.jpeg

Won't get used in anger till I'm next back in UK - got an old Raleigh Twenty there waiting for a new lease of life. Bit fiddly to make, but hard to come by a dedicated tool to do the job, so kept me amused for a while :smile:
 

PeteXXX

Cake or ice cream? The choice is endless ...
Location
Hamtun
DSC_0098.JPG


Two new 20" tyres time for grandson's bike...
He didn't wear them out, I got it 2nd hand a month or do ago.

Im sure he'll scrub the tread off, too, though 😂
 
As I've got some scraps left over from other projects, thought I'd go all posh and make me a proper repair stand. Made the clamp part quite some time back, from an old kiddies bike front end
1612947500014.jpeg


So just had to make the stand part to finish the job
1612947655940.jpeg


A quick test to see how it goes with one of my daily plodders
1612947786958.jpeg


And next my R20. Fear ye not all those who know R20's - the original tonnage has been greatly reduced with its modernisation
1612947950346.jpeg


So, it's survived the first tests - will use it to do a project soon and give it a thorough workout, and maybe even a lick of paint ^_^
 

DCLane

Found in the Yorkshire hills ...
Next door neighbour wants a cheap MTB to leave at the depot he's based at during the week - he sleeps in his wagon. The budget: £40-50. And did I have anything?

Last week I didn't. Today however I picked up this for £15 - an old Townsend MTB:

s-l1600.jpg


Overall, despite some rust (which is now off) it wasn't in bad condition, just needing lubricant for the chain and a front mech adjustment. The rear wheel was moving about and I thought "new freewheel" but the rear wheel nuts had simply lost all their thread: new nuts solved it.

Why however did they not put 10p-worth of grease in the wheel hubs and elsewhere? The front hub's had grease, a clean and new bearings. As the rear's a non-reusable freewheel it's had a clean and grease on the non-drive side only with as much grease as I could get down to the drive side.

Total cost is under £20. Now to see if it fits him ... :whistle:
 
Last edited:
Put another block of wood under the front wheel of the bike on the turbo trainer as currently using a wheel stand. Need to sort a proper riser out.
 

chriswoody

Legendary Member
Location
Northern Germany
Finally managed to get around to re-assembling my hub. I started by popping the torque arm and bolts onto the end of the axle, then mounting it in the vice. I then dry fitted the clutch assembly and brake shoes to check their alignment.

573770


Then I covered everything in grease, before popping the wheel over the top and fitting the last of the gubbins onto the drive side. I then test fitted it back in the rear of the bike before adjusting the bearings.

573768


Just need to clean and refit the chainset, then we're all good to go.
 

Tom B

Guru
Location
Lancashire
Its been a busy week...

Fixed a puncture.

Got the urge to play on my MTB earlier this week, but I'd put it away in a sulk in December after it suffered some mechanical issues. Particularly the long standing crank allergy to the chain, a stiff bb, free hub issue and needing a new tyre.
See here
https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/tight-bb-and-reluctant-freehub.270172/

Decided it couldn't be all that bad and got it out, put it in the conservatory with a fan heater on it for a while and then set to with some GT85, plusgas, a tractor tyre and a bucket of optimism.

Got the freehub running much better after deciding the qr didn't need to be tightened by he-man (look it up kids) and changed the tyre.
Set about the BB with an absence of relevant tools and basically hosed everywhere i could with lube. It was still stiff and rumbly but much better.

Decided to ride to work on it via the hillso, got to owork and found the crank was moving much better, still rumbly but at least the cranks would spin freely.

573846


On my other bikes this week I have found that the cold (under minus 5) is detrimental to my free hubs.
I have two shimano freehubs (m475 type) that have quit in the cold, sticking in freewheel mode. Both brought back to life by pouring some boiling water over the hub or leaning against a radiator. I can only assume they have either got water inside that is icing up or the cold is making the grease too sticky. They both live in dryish, but unheated sheds.

Bought some Noah and Theo ceramic pads a few months ago after a recommendation on here (the shimano resin i had been using for years had started to shed the material - possibly a bad batch). Smashed through them after about 200miles, contacted N&T who have been really helpful. They have suggested my rotors are resin only types and this is chewing up the pads.

Popped to pick my lad up from the inlaws (child care bubble) and got some surprise fettling in as the nephew had somehow rounded out the nut that holds the seat to the seat rails. Found the headset was loose, brakes decorative and wheelbearings worn and loose - is there anything that destroys confidence in bike handling more than a wonky headset?. Did the best with the rest and tried to get the seat post out to work on, after much swearing decided it was only the cold stopping it, so poured some warm water over the frame and out it popped. Turns out the threaded nut part of the clamp is goosed, so decided to add a nut. Of course the bolt is some oddball thread so it will have to wait until I can get a new nut to suit or a new bolt to suit the nut. Nephew wants a new bike for his imminent birthday, so it doesn't have to be pretty. Tried to convince his BIL that some brake-pads may be a wise investment in the interim to ensure the continued existence of his eldest. I might find some especially as the bike is likely to be handed down and we wouldnt want it to be damaged before my lad is big enough to ride it.

Had a beer this evening (i'm a light weight) and decided it would be a good idea to strip off the MTB having borrowed the necessary tool from a colleague.

That self extracting crank idea is neat. Having got the BB bearing out now they both turn pretty easy, the drive side feels dog rough and the whole thing was filthy. Ive cleaned it up a bit and was amazed that the covers for the bearings just fell off in my hands. Both full of black gunk, looked like moly grease and the rougher bearing was fully of rusty sludge. The bearings dont seem to want to come out of the cups. Toyed with the ideal of soaking them in diesel or carb cleaner but then thought that would probably just wash out the remaining grease and remembered that I didnt have any of either.

Cleaned up the bits a bit, shiney rings on the crank spindle - wonder if the spindle has been turning in the seized bearings?

573845



Had a celebratory (successful disassembly) whiskey, then inhibitions suitably lowered went online and bought a new crankset for the MTB along with a new RD, 10MM Hex socket, a collection of brake pads I have 5 different pads over my 3 bikes and a new rotor. Just need to figure out how to assemble this CL - 6Bolt adapter now.

Still need to source a suitable Shimano 10speed shifter.

Anyway should I put copperslip on the BB cup threads?

And what's the point of that wavey washer other than to hold grass and crap?
 
Last edited:
Top Bottom