What Have You Fettled Today?

[cyberknight]

recabled the rear shifter on the commuter , its a good job i did as i didnt realize since the new wheel i couldnt get the fastest gear as the hub must be slightly different so i had to adjust the high stop too.
Replaced the bottle cages on the winter bike as the ones i had were just some ebay cheap specials that were so tight i couldnt get the bottle out when riding .
The bottle cages on the boardman were also treated to a respray as the paint had worn off so a blast with matte black car spray made them look good again

 

[chriswoody]

So after successfully working out how to strip the hub and remove the old worn out bearings, it was time today to pop in some new ones. It's taken a fair few days to find somewhere that had some in stock, but they're here now.

I made up a bearing press from threaded bar, washers and some M10 nuts. I used the old bearing as a press to drift the new bearings into place.

WIth the new bearings in place I quickly re-assembled the rest of the hub. I'd originally thought that the axle end cap was tightened by hand, but after cleaning and close inspection I noticed that there are actually flats machined in there to take a 6mm hex key. So that explains the side to side float that I was experiencing, it just wasn't tight enough. Frustratingly though I can't find a suitable replacement O-ring for the seal, so the broken one is back on there for now, it's better than nothing. I'll try and scour the local bike shops in the morning, maybe I'll be lucky.

 

[Andy in Germany]

So after successfully working out how to strip the hub and remove the old worn out bearings, it was time today to pop in some new ones. It's taken a fair few days to find somewhere that had some in stock, but they're here now.

I made up a bearing press from threaded bar, washers and some M10 nuts. I used the old bearing as a press to drift the new bearings into place.

View attachment 666873

WIth the new bearings in place I quickly re-assembled the rest of the hub. I'd originally thought that the axle end cap was tightened by hand, but after cleaning and close inspection I noticed that there are actually flats machined in there to take a 6mm hex key. So that explains the side to side float that I was experiencing, it just wasn't tight enough. Frustratingly though I can't find a suitable replacement O-ring for the seal, so the broken one is back on there for now, it's better than nothing. I'll try and scour the local bike shops in the morning, maybe I'll be lucky.

View attachment 666872

Much respect to you for taking on a job like that...

 

[HLaB]

I probably should have just topped up the sealant in my old tyre that I tubed last weekend but I went with a new tubeless tyre instead (keeping the old one a spare). I fitted that tonight and it was terrible, it took me 30s to get over the rim, a whole minute to seat and was a right mess compared to last time.
Tonight

Oh did I mention last time there was completely no mess.

 

[cyberknight]

Tomorrows job will be to alter the cleats on my shoes to move it so the knee is more inwards as it could be the cause of my knee pain

EDIT
after much fiddling and head scratching i have come to realize i have been wearing a pair of shoes i dont use much that do come up big recently .After yesterdays ride my knee did hurt so i am going to sell them

 

[DCLane]

This afternoon I finished putting together the Dawes Giro 400 which I picked up from @bikingdad90 on here and turned it into a bike for Zwift use. Given the next season of Zwift racing is upon us I'm not sure the excuse of "I've not got a bike" would've held water with CycleChat's C-team boss @steverob

So ... frameset plus seatpost / bars / saddle arrived. It's had fitted:

- Headset fully cleaned and re-greased, with seatpost re-greased
- A CeramicSpeed bottom bracket as it's for Zwift. And I doubt a Dawes Giro's ever had one of those before
- The Shimano 105 shifters / rear derailleur from my NeilPryde Nazaré upgrade
- A Shimano 105 front derailleur I found in the parts shed
- A Shimano 105 OEM 52/36 crankset - sold a 50/34 on eBay and bought this from the same buyer/seller - but I was a fiver up on the transactions
- New KMC chain plus inner/outer cables
- An old pair of Shimano 105 pedals - one black, one silver
- A carbon fibre bottle cage I picked up somewhere a while back but then never used
- The front carbon wheel I repaired a couple of years ago
- The last of the £1 bar tape I'd bought, taken out of the parts shed

There's no rear wheel as it's for Zwift use only.
There's no brakes as it's for Zwift use only. And if the local thieving #%@*"}{'s steal it they'll find out first-hand as soon as they ride downhill.

I might swap the stem and/or saddle depending upon how it works when in situ, which currently looks like this:

Behind is the workshop area, which I also took the opportunity to tidy up this afternoon.

 

[Andy in Germany]

About to leave work yesterday to come and be with the family for the weekend, I remembered I'd promised to check the gears and brakes on Middle Son's bike, as apparently the gears were not responding and the brakes had the stopping power of "a piece of bog roll"

Cue mad dash to collect tools and bits before leaving to catch train. This morning I sorted them out:

The brakes were indeed dodgy; the blocks were almost down to the metal.

Young people these days et c...

 

[ColinJ]

I have some cheap bar tape on order. When that arrives I will double-wrap the handlebar and install it on the bike.

The tape arrived and I have just double-wrapped the bar to give me a nice cushioned grip for those intense winter turbo sessions to come... (I only used it a couple of times last winter but didn't ride my bikes out on the road much either. This coming winter I will make an effort to use the turbo if I don't fancy going out in the winter weather.)

It isn't the neatest wrap-job that I have ever done but I am the only person who will ever see it so I probably won't bother redoing it. If I start to get irritated with it at a later date, I will redo it then.

While I am waiting, I need to find out why the rear tyre keeps going down... How do you get a puncture on a bike that never leaves a turbo trainer! Maybe it has a faulty tube or valve?

The answer is that there is a small split in the tube along a seam, a problem also complained about by @Andy in Germany earlier today in another thread.

I've repaired the tube and was about to put the bike back together when I noticed that the rear wheel bearings feel a bit rough. I'll investigate that further once I have finished my pot of coffee.

 

[Deleted member 1258]

The tape arrived and I have just double-wrapped the bar to give me a nice cushioned grip for those intense winter turbo sessions to come... (I only used it a couple of times last winter but didn't ride my bikes out on the road much either. This coming winter I will make an effort to use the turbo if I don't fancy going out in the winter weather.)

It isn't the neatest wrap-job that I have ever done but I am the only person who will ever see it so I probably won't bother redoing it. If I start to get irritated with it at a later date, I will redo it then.


The answer is that there is a small split in the tube along a seam, a problem also complained about by @Andy in Germany earlier today in another thread.

I've repaired the tube and was about to put the bike back together when I noticed that the rear wheel bearings feel a bit rough. I'll investigate that further once I have finished my pot of coffee.

One of mine when I was using a turbo was the tube splitting under a patch at the site of an old puncture.

 

[ColinJ]

One of mine when I was using a turbo was the tube splitting under a patch at the site of an old puncture.

I thought that would be the case with this one but the 2 existing patches and the tube around them were still airtight.

I have had it happen before though.

I usually put up to 4 or 5 patches on a tube before scrapping it, unless the valve fails or one of the seams splits badly.

 

[AlexB]

I set up a piar of wheels tubeless a couple of weekends ago and despite the wheels being brand new, the tape did not seal, so I was losing air into the rim and then out through the spoke holes. Maddening! This weekend's test was to try a bodge I've seen on Youtube. Double wrap the rim, directly over the rim tape, with electrical tape. This should make the rim airtight. The theory is that the electrical tape conforms much better than the rim tape and the rim tape stops the pressure form blowing out the tape. I wasn't entirely convinced it would work, so just did one rim and blow me, but it does seem to have worked. Tonight I'll do the other rim.

 

[HLaB]

After cleaning bikes, I fitted a rear mudguard to the commuter tonight, adjusted it too and started to put the front guard on. The front guard will need adjusted after dinner though.

 

[HLaB]

After cleaning bikes, I fitted a rear mudguard to the commuter tonight, adjusted it too and started to put the front guard on. The front guard will need adjusted after dinner though.
View attachment 667154

View attachment 667155

Front mudguard fettled 👍

View: https://youtube.com/shorts/5iLkZXQj54U?feature=share

Edit: I forgot to say as with the previous SKS guard I needed to put a 23mm tyre on the front, there isn't quite enough clearance under the fork (which can take 28mm upgraded) for a 25mm.

 

[si_c]

Cleaned both bikes today, the Trek was utterly filthy as it's my daily ride, took a while but it's much cleaner now.

The Kinesis was much cleaner as I've been using it as a good weather only bike for the last couple of years, and I haven't cleaned it properly in that time. Didn't take too long to clean. Then I spent about 3 hours trying to fit the mudguards and dynamo lights. Fitting wasn't a problem, but having moved house since I took them off I was unable to find all the small parts. I'd put them in a glass jar to keep them all together and safe, but I've lost the jar. Hence 3 hours trying to find the parts. I failed, so I've bodged some temporary bits (I bought several bags of 100 small button head bolts of varying sizes a year or two ago and I found those easily enough). I'm still mainly missing the nut which holds the rear mudguard to the frame (it's a recessed brake caliper type bolt) but I've ordered a replacement (titanium!) from ebay for under a fiver. For now I've bodged it with a longer bolt and the nut from an old rear brake I'm not using right now.

Just need to fit the mudflaps now, I ran out of time/motivation, tomorrows job.

Edit: Fitted the dynamo lights, the cables run internally through the frame and I fitted some new spade connectors to join the front and rear lights, then heatshrinked it all together.

 

[Vantage]

The same can't be said for the front hub which is sounding a bit groggy. Sealed bearing type crap so will wait till it dies and just buy a better hub someday. This'll be the second SP hub to go on me. Rubbish.

Well it died sooner than I thought and it wasn't the bearings that killed it. A misty midnight ride through the moors lead to water ingress which killed the internal lecky generating bits....no power. Meh.
Yesterday afternoon a new Son Delux hub was delivered and I finished rebuilding the wheel about 1am this morning. It took twice as long as it should have because I had dinner and upon returning to the wheel I'd forgotten which way the nipples turned regarding tightening and loosening and bolloxed it up. Had to start again
Got the front light and ewerk wired up and checked...all running nicely and less than 0.5mm out of true 😊
Waiting for male spade connectors today then I can wire up the back light.
Gotta tidy up the ebike battery/motor wiring too coz it's a mess atm.