Bonefish Blues
Banging donk
- Location
- 52 Festive Road
Easy peasy. That will be built with Fromage 541 tubing, so a little jerk should be able to sort it, pretty mange tout.
Would you cold reset this frame?
- Thread starter swee'pea99
- Start date
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Gravity Aided
Legendary Member
- Location
- Land of Lincoln
10 mm. Newtons 3rd law. Reason for the nuts is to keep the dropouts in alignment as the process occurs. Some steels, like Columbus, don't take to cold setting as well as others, like Reynolds 531. You might want to spread the frame 15-20 mm, to account for the steel springing back. I did this to a 531 frame to accommodate 8 speed on a 6 speed frame.
Cycleops
Legendary Member
- Location
- Accra, Ghana
Mr Yellow Saddle he say yes!Sounds like @Yellow Saddle says it's ok to do
KneesUp
Guru
Think how good it was for building fitness though.
Ming the Merciless
There is no mercy
- Location
- Inside my skull
I guess that is what they mean by block periodisation training...
D
Deleted member 26715
Guest
Not if I read it correct 5mm each side, giving a total of 10mm
Yellow Saddle
Guru
- Location
- Loch side.
I think you'll find that Columbus steel is pretty much the same CroMo as 531 and will bend (screw this cold setting nonsense) just as much as any other steel or iron. You'll also find that the nuts do not gaurantee a new drop-out angle but that the old angle will be preserved as it was. Nuts make no difference. Why complicate things by suggesting to spread it 15-20mm? Just bend it until you have the desired width. Stop complicating the little procedure.
DCBassman
Guru
- Location
- The lumpy far South West
I'm getting the car jack on the Claud Butler after reading this. It's a 130 to 135 adjustment, sorry, bend, so I'll just gently have at it.
SkipdiverJohn
Deplorable Brexiteer
- Location
- London
531 isn't classed as cro-moly as it has a greater proportion of Manganese in it's formulation. 501 is the stuff that closely resembles the cro-moly offerings from other sources. Columbus steel tubing came in several varieties, just like Reynolds.
I would not get too blasé about cold-bending steels that have undergone heat treatment. It is definitely NOT recommended to try it with Reynolds 753, which is essentially heat-treated 531 drawn to a thinner gauge.
Gravity Aided
Legendary Member
- Location
- Land of Lincoln
Why "bend" it too far? or not enough? And I find the nuts, along with some fender washers, if needed, help keep the dropouts parallel.
Yellow Saddle
Guru
- Location
- Loch side.
Like I said before, washers, fender or otherwise, will NOT keep the drop-outs parallel. That requires a different technique. You need an Irish Vernier for that.
Yellow Saddle
Guru
- Location
- Loch side.
Yeah yeah year. Nobody mentioned 753. The rest will all just bend without fuss.
Yellow Saddle
Guru
- Location
- Loch side.
Because it is impossible to get it right the first time. Even with nuts and threaded rods, you still have to overshoot. Sometimes you overshoot too much, other times, not enough. Nobody can get it spot on in one go and if you do, you're lucky.
Yellow Saddle
Guru
- Location
- Loch side.
I use car jacks for aluminium frames. There's no way you can bend those with muscle, not cyclist upper body muscle in anyway.I'm getting the car jack on the Claud Butler after reading this. It's a 130 to 135 adjustment, sorry, bend, so I'll just gently have at it.
How come? The threaded rod would act as the axle, so the nuts and washers would keep the drop out in the correct position with respect to the axle, wouldn't they?
