Would you cold reset this frame?

[midlife]

How come? The threaded rod would act as the axle, so the nuts and washers would keep the drop out in the correct position with respect to the axle, wouldn't they?

You are still within the elastic limit of the metal and they spring back outwards?

 

[Yellow Saddle]

How come? The threaded rod would act as the axle, so the nuts and washers would keep the drop out in the correct position with respect to the axle, wouldn't they?

Because the amount they have to bend requires more force that what's supplied by bending the stays out. In other words, you'll have to overshoot a lot on the stays to get the drop-outs to the right angle. Therefore, it is two separate jobs.

The out-of-alignment drop-outs aren't a big issue if you don't remove and replace the back wheel often. Reason being, that it only manifests as a wheel that's a bit tricky to get in if you use the QR as intended, i.e. open, fit, close. With an out-of-alignment drop-out you have to open the nut a bit.

BTW, the best way to check for such a drop-out is with the wheel, not with fancy tools. What you do is fit the wheel and watch the drop-out closely as you close the QR. If it moves (i.e. flexes) you know the drop-out is out of alignment. If it bothers you, use a large shifting spanner to bend it.

However, if you do the mathematics on the angle change with a small OLD adjustment, you'll find it is very, very small. However, however, on rubbish wheels with rubbish alu axles, it is enough to cause the axles to eventually break. On the type of bike the OP mentioned, it isn't a problem.

 

[Yellow Saddle]

You are still within the elastic limit of the metal and they spring back outwards?

So much more elegantly stated than my long-winded answer. Thanks.

 

[C R]

Thanks both @midlife and @Yellow Saddle, I was indeed missing the elastic limit point.

 

[Gravity Aided]

Like I said before, washers, fender or otherwise, will NOT keep the drop-outs parallel. That requires a different technique. You need an Irish Vernier for that.

Do well enough for mine. Worst come to worst, I could use a couple of stunt pegs trimmed down to line things up. Pretty much what Park tool offers.

 

[Kempstonian]

I just cold set a frame using the threaded rod method, as in RJ Bike Guy's video. I got the 12" rod for £4.34 and 10 nuts for £2.95, both on Ebay. A cheap solution that worked a treat.

Piece of cake!

Edit: I agree about his voice being a bit irritating but the guy knows his stuff!