Would you cold reset this frame?

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I like Skol

A Minging Manc...
I've done it on old alu frames, (which is generally not recommended), but I had no issues.

I used the threaded bar method, went slowly and as evenally as I could, and also braced the brake bridge as mentioned above , worked a treat :okay:
Not done this but really don't understand bracing the brake bridge this way. If the weld fails under such minor stress then it was faulty from the start and needed to be revealed. I wouldn't want to be riding a frame with such poor construction, oblivious to the weakness and having helped to hide/mask it.
 
Not done this but really don't understand bracing the brake bridge this way.
I dunno, I just remember the instructions I used mentioned it, and not being of an enginering mind I just followed what it said.

Did it help? Dunno for certain.

Would of not worked without it? Certainly don't know that :wacko:

I did it, the whole.process worked, I had no cause to dissect the effectiveness of any aspect of the process :hugs:
 

midlife

Guru
Not done this but really don't understand bracing the brake bridge this way. If the weld fails under such minor stress then it was faulty from the start and needed to be revealed. I wouldn't want to be riding a frame with such poor construction, oblivious to the weakness and having helped to hide/mask it.

I guess it's brazed :smile:. For springy frames BITD we just used thumbs to get the new wheel in lol
 

Oldfentiger

Veteran
Location
Pendle, Lancs
I’ve reset a frame from 115mm to 120mm using the threaded rod method. Had to take it to 160mm before it would return to 120mm.
There’s a couple of LeJeunes in our stable too ^_^
430263EB-ECD2-4CF8-9C6C-B5B5F6174758.jpeg 8F01C41A-79E9-48AF-8F52-1E6E9A507654.jpeg
 

tyred

Legendary Member
Location
Ireland
Ensure that the drop outs remain parallel and check the alignment afterwards with a piece of string tied to one drop out pulled tight around the head tube and tied to the other drop out and then measure the distance between the string and the seat tube on each side.

I did this on my Viscount Aerospace, mainly because the rear triangle was bent out of alignment in the first place and I thought that I may as well while I was at it.

I'd like that bike built with Sturmey 3 speed personally but I just like 3 speed hubs!
 
OP
OP
swee'pea99

swee'pea99

Legendary Member
Yes, do it, but just bloody bend it.
Well, given that encouragement I just bloody bent it! And whaddya know - it worked just fine. One good pull took it to about 126mm, another to...well I never...130mm. Job done. All that angsting, and it was all over in two minutes. Test ride in the morning, but I'm pretty optimistic. Thanks for all advice & encouragement.
 
Location
Loch side.
Well, given that encouragement I just bloody bent it! And whaddya know - it worked just fine. One good pull took it to about 126mm, another to...well I never...130mm. Job done. All that angsting, and it was all over in two minutes. Test ride in the morning, but I'm pretty optimistic. Thanks for all advice & encouragement.
Bloody good show, now don't forget the beer. A lager.
 

KneesUp

Guru
I used a car-jack when I did it - felt to me like it was going to keep it even by default. And I had a car jack to hand, and no threaded bar.
 
OP
OP
swee'pea99

swee'pea99

Legendary Member
If using the threaded bar method be very careful to give each but the same number of turns, otherwise you will spread one side more than the other

....

;)
Funnily enough I was concerned about exactly that, not being very scientific 'n that, till I read a comment along those lines below that youtube vid, where the guy referred the query to Newton's third law. At which point, enlightenment dawned...
 

I like Skol

A Minging Manc...
If using the threaded bar method be very careful to give each but the same number of turns, otherwise you will spread one side more than the other

....

;)
How so? The threaded bar is just a distance/length between nuts and the spring of the frame will decide how central it is. The only way to individually adjust each side would be if the frame were clamped in a jig and the nuts were working against the jig.
 
Years ago, before t'internet and I'd never heard of cold setting, I put a larger block in an old Rotax frame. I was so ignorant back then that I was puzzled why it didn't fit. So I simply pulled the frame apart until it did. I never even thought about it and rode it for many 1000's of miles like that.
 

Ming the Merciless

There is no mercy
Photo Winner
Location
Inside my skull
Years ago, before t'internet and I'd never heard of cold setting, I put a larger block in an old Rotax frame. I was so ignorant back then that I was puzzled why it didn't fit. So I simply pulled the frame apart until it did. I never even thought about it and rode it for many 1000's of miles like that.

I'm sure it would have ridden better with a wheel in place of the large block.
 
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