1940s Raleigh rescue - Should I or shouldn't I?

[ChrisEyles]

Just seen a pair of old (owner says 1940s, which looks about right) Raleigh bikes going near me.

Nothing to go on except two pics (below)...

Looks like there is only one saddle, and one front (rod) brake, between the two. The frame on one also looks to be in a bit of a state, but it's hard to tell from the picture how deep the rust has got.

I'm quite tempted to see if I can salvage parts off of one to fully kit out the other (better) of the two frames, then give everything a good old clean and see how it scrubs up. Owner is asking £35 for the pair, and have been direly warned by my wife not to spend any more on doing them up!

What do people thing, worth a pop or likely to be a money-sink? This will be a first for me, so is there anything to look out for when viewing the bikes, other than damage to the frame/forks?

 

[ChrisEyles]

 

[Cycleops]

You should be able to get one decent bike from the two. It's not going to be cheap, even with a oily rag refurb. Worth it? That's really up to you. You'll need to add the rear brake, tyres, tubes, wheel rebuild, chain and relube. That'll get it ridable. Are the seat posts stuck? Might render them scrap if they are. Don't listen to 'er indoors!

 

[raleighnut]

I would but remember they're gonna need tyres and tubes so a zero budget ain't do-able

 

[ChrisEyles]

That's what I'm thinking - I am torn! Really fancy it as a project, but the budget is low low low, and the only thing that would annoy 'Er indoors more than me buying the bikes would be the bikes lying in pieces forever around the shed

I *think* (hope!) the rear brakes may be present - underneath the chainstays instead of behind the seatstays - but again it's hard to see from the pictures. Never seen any rod brakes before, I am quite curious about them!

A pair of (cheap) tyres/tubes (and maybe brake pads and chain if necessary) I can probably get away with, but a wheel rebuild is going to be out. If the wheel looks to be roughly true on spinning, is it likely to be OK or will it still need attention?

I don't really have the know-how to put in a new BB or headset either (especially not on something this old!), so will have to hope these are OK. Ditto the Sturmey Archer rear hubs (at least I assume that's what they're likely to be)!

If they stay on offer a little longer I don't think I'm going to be able to stop myself at least going and having a look (with £35 in my back pocket).

If I do go for it there'll be pictures aplenty!

 

[raleighnut]

I'd be tempted to totally strip the top one for bits, flog off the frame on E-bay and build up the older one (frame with bolt on rear stays) using the money from the sale of the frame (someone in that there London can fixie it)

 

[Cycleops]

Sorry the rear brake is there, didn't see it before. Check the headset by holding the front brake on and rocking the bike back and forth. Even if gone replacement is very cheap. Likewise the BB, feel for any play by pulling the cranks.

 

[ChrisEyles]

Haha, I must say I like the idea of financing a rebuild by sending one of the frames off to London to be re-incarnated as a fixie

I hadn't noticed the bolt on rear stays - good spot!

A bit of googling has suggested that old Raleighs often have strange threads on their BBs, so getting a new one might be problematic - this and/or frame/fork damage would be a deal breaker for me, but otherwise I am leaning more and more towards going for it!

 

[raleighnut]

The crank bearings normally just need a good clean up and regrease/new races as long as the shaft is sound, they were made of good quality steel.

 

[roadrash]

Re the bottom bracket, you will probably find that the thread is 26 tpi instead of the usual 24 , these bottom brackets are virtually bomb proof , usually a good clean and regrease of the bearings is enough , IF of course you can get the cotter pins out.

 

[raleighnut]

Re the bottom bracket, you will probably find that the thread is 26 tpi instead of the usual 24 , these bottom brackets are virtually bomb proof , usually a good clean and regrease of the bearings is enough , IF of course you can get the cotter pins out.

Aah cotterpins, takes me back, secret to getting them out is to soak em in penetrating oil for a day or so re-applying every now and then. Unscrew the nut until it's flush with the end of the pin and then a Bl**dy great whack with a biggish hammer, none of this tapping at it malarkey one hit should shock it out (if you do bend one they're only a couple of quid a pair but the one whack is less likely to damage em)

 

[roadrash]

another way , using a vice and an old socket like this , voila.... a home made cotter press

 

[ChrisEyles]

I've just had a read on Sheldon Brown's site about removing cotter pins and it sounds frankly terrifying! Still at least I'll have two bikes to practice on...

 

[tribanjules]

Aah cotterpins, takes me back, secret to getting them out is to soak em in penetrating oil for a day or so re-applying every now and then. Unscrew the nut until it's flush with the end of the pin and then a Bl**dy great whack with a biggish hammer, none of this tapping at it malarkey one hit should shock it out (if you do bend one they're only a couple of quid a pair but the one whack is less likely to damage em)

Ahhhh happy days with cotter pins

 

[ChrisEyles]

Right, spoke to the owner last night - if he still has the bikes by next weekend I'm going over to pick them up. Keeping my fingers crossed no-one beats me to it!