Bike Set up ....any thoughts

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Jimmy Welch

Well-Known Member
Evening lad took the bike for a spin , with the saddle a few mil forward and the seat likewise 40 miles round North Wales and I feel I could go again really really helpful many thanks to everyone who replied
 
No worries. It’s bonkers what a few MM can do to the feel on a bike. I experimented with cleats right back and saddle forward and found :sad:my power was down and my legs burnt on the hills (due to more engagement). I’ve reverted back to mid cleat position and saddle back a few mm and it’s perfect for me, much more comfortable despite only moving 3-4mm.
 

si_c

Guru
Location
Wirral
Evening lad took the bike for a spin , with the saddle a few mil forward and the seat likewise 40 miles round North Wales and I feel I could go again really really helpful many thanks to everyone who replied
As a taller rider it's very easy to underestimate how much saddle height you actually need, I'm a touch over 6'5" and my saddle to bar drop is 12ish cm and I run a 120mm stem, on a 63cm frame. I'd say a 120mm is probably too much for you on that frame, but give it a few weeks of riding around and then see how you feel either dropping the stem a spacer or two and/or using a 100mm stem, like I said before though don't change more than one thing at a time if you can help it. A rule of thumb I tend to work to is at least 500mi between changes to get a good idea of what I like/don't like.
 

cyberknight

As long as I breathe, I attack.
No worries. It’s bonkers what a few MM can do to the feel on a bike. I experimented with cleats right back and saddle forward and found :sad:my power was down and my legs burnt on the hills (due to more engagement). I’ve reverted back to mid cleat position and saddle back a few mm and it’s perfect for me, much more comfortable despite only moving 3-4mm.
Indeed , recently i felt i was losing power at the bottom of the pedal stroke and my left knee was tracking in and out so i dropped the saddle 5 mm and instantly it felt better although i have always had my set up on the upper limit of my range



As a taller rider it's very easy to underestimate how much saddle height you actually need, I'm a touch over 6'5" and my saddle to bar drop is 12ish cm and I run a 120mm stem, on a 63cm frame. I'd say a 120mm is probably too much for you on that frame, but give it a few weeks of riding around and then see how you feel either dropping the stem a spacer or two and/or using a 100mm stem, like I said before though don't change more than one thing at a time if you can help it. A rule of thumb I tend to work to is at least 500mi between changes to get a good idea of what I like/don't like.

Thats interesting as im nearly a foot shorter and my drop is about 3-4 cm but my body angle is in the same ball park as tall people i know .I put this down to shorter arms so less reach for the same angle
 

si_c

Guru
Location
Wirral
Thats interesting as im nearly a foot shorter and my drop is about 3-4 cm but my body angle is in the same ball park as tall people i know .I put this down to shorter arms so less reach for the same angle
Definitely this, as you get taller what would be an extreme position for a shorter person simply becomes comparable, for example although I have a ~5" saddle to bar drop, I'm still not even close to riding with a flat back, I have to get on the drops, flatten my forearms and get myself lower before I start to approach that position.

In your case being a foot shorter means your arm span is a foot narrower also, even assuming half that is shoulder width that's still three inches in each arm that needs to be accounted for.
 
I'd say quite the opposite. The rider looks already in a very upright position, so if anything I would change to a longer stem so he could stretch out a bit more and put slightly more pressure on the handlebars.

Actually I would agree with you. In the latest video by @Jimmy Welch his wrist angle at 29seconds and 53 seconds looks a little off.
It is either stem angle or stem length but can’t quite work it out. @Jimmy Welch what does it feel like at the hands.

Your hips are a lot more stable now and less rocking so think we have sorted out the back end. You might be able to go higher still as your a toe dipper and heel riser rider rather than a neutral flat position.
 
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Jimmy Welch

Well-Known Member
....plus I'm wearing my usual cycling bibs with is fractionally different from yesterday video
 
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Jimmy Welch

Well-Known Member
Actually I would agree with you. In the latest video by @Jimmy Welch his wrist angle at 29seconds and 53 seconds looks a little off.
It is either stem angle or stem length but can’t quite work it out. @Jimmy Welch what does it feel like at the hands.

Your hips are a lot more stable now and less rocking so think we have sorted out the back end. You might be able to go higher still as your a toe dipper and heel riser rider rather than a neutral flat position.
As I have sorted out the back bit I hadn't really noticed the hands but your right there is a kink in the wrist , I've only rolled the bars a fraction forward would I further roll straighten out my wrist ?
 
Have a play, maybe drop a spacer from the headset to lower the bars and move the bars away from you slightly. See what it feels like.

If that doesn’t work then try a longer stem and a different angle.
 

si_c

Guru
Location
Wirral
Compared to the first video you are definitely in a much better position, than you were previously far less movement around on the saddle (and that wouldn't be impacted by bibs/no bibs) and leg extension seems a bit better too. There is still possibly some room for another lift and shift forward, but don't make any radical changes yet, you found last nights ride to be much more comfortable, so I'd say try that position for a ride or two before making any further adjustments.

As far as the wrist kink goes, I wouldn't worry about that at all unless you are having wrist issues, but I don't think that the rollback of the bars is a problem, looks like a comfortable endurance position to me. The only thing about it that strikes me is that from the angle of the camera it could actually be related to the handlebar width rather than the angle of the bars at the stem. Also I'd be tempted to suggest a one spacer drop of the handlebars as that will reduce the wrist/arm angle and still leave you in a very upright position.
 
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Jimmy Welch

Well-Known Member
I put a spirit level on it and in the groin bit it level it's maybe the saddles Shap it flares out and up at the rear
 
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