Jimmy Welch
Senior Member
Evening lad took the bike for a spin , with the saddle a few mil forward and the seat likewise 40 miles round North Wales and I feel I could go again really really helpful many thanks to everyone who replied
As a taller rider it's very easy to underestimate how much saddle height you actually need, I'm a touch over 6'5" and my saddle to bar drop is 12ish cm and I run a 120mm stem, on a 63cm frame. I'd say a 120mm is probably too much for you on that frame, but give it a few weeks of riding around and then see how you feel either dropping the stem a spacer or two and/or using a 100mm stem, like I said before though don't change more than one thing at a time if you can help it. A rule of thumb I tend to work to is at least 500mi between changes to get a good idea of what I like/don't like.Evening lad took the bike for a spin , with the saddle a few mil forward and the seat likewise 40 miles round North Wales and I feel I could go again really really helpful many thanks to everyone who replied
Indeed , recently i felt i was losing power at the bottom of the pedal stroke and my left knee was tracking in and out so i dropped the saddle 5 mm and instantly it felt better although i have always had my set up on the upper limit of my rangeNo worries. It’s bonkers what a few MM can do to the feel on a bike. I experimented with cleats right back and saddle forward and foundmy power was down and my legs burnt on the hills (due to more engagement). I’ve reverted back to mid cleat position and saddle back a few mm and it’s perfect for me, much more comfortable despite only moving 3-4mm.
As a taller rider it's very easy to underestimate how much saddle height you actually need, I'm a touch over 6'5" and my saddle to bar drop is 12ish cm and I run a 120mm stem, on a 63cm frame. I'd say a 120mm is probably too much for you on that frame, but give it a few weeks of riding around and then see how you feel either dropping the stem a spacer or two and/or using a 100mm stem, like I said before though don't change more than one thing at a time if you can help it. A rule of thumb I tend to work to is at least 500mi between changes to get a good idea of what I like/don't like.
- narrower bars and possible a shorter stem to reduce reach and put your shoulder parallel again.
Definitely this, as you get taller what would be an extreme position for a shorter person simply becomes comparable, for example although I have a ~5" saddle to bar drop, I'm still not even close to riding with a flat back, I have to get on the drops, flatten my forearms and get myself lower before I start to approach that position.Thats interesting as im nearly a foot shorter and my drop is about 3-4 cm but my body angle is in the same ball park as tall people i know .I put this down to shorter arms so less reach for the same angle
I'd say quite the opposite. The rider looks already in a very upright position, so if anything I would change to a longer stem so he could stretch out a bit more and put slightly more pressure on the handlebars.
As I have sorted out the back bit I hadn't really noticed the hands but your right there is a kink in the wrist , I've only rolled the bars a fraction forward would I further roll straighten out my wrist ?Actually I would agree with you. In the latest video by @Jimmy Welch his wrist angle at 29seconds and 53 seconds looks a little off.
It is either stem angle or stem length but can’t quite work it out. @Jimmy Welch what does it feel like at the hands.
Your hips are a lot more stable now and less rocking so think we have sorted out the back end. You might be able to go higher still as your a toe dipper and heel riser rider rather than a neutral flat position.
There's an echo 😁Here's a good bike setup guide by the legendary Spa Cycles bike designer @Colin531
http://wheel-easy.org.uk/wp-content/uploads/bike-set-up-2017a.pdf