Busch & Müller dynamo lights, do they come with wiring?

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Noru

Well-Known Member
Hi I'm looking at switching to dynamo powered lights, can any Busch & Müller light owners tell me if they come with the wiring needed or do I need to buy that as extra?

Also is 50 lux sufficient for unlit county roads at a modest pace?

These are the lights I'm considering;
B&M IQ2 Eyc (50 lux)
B&M Toplight Line Plus
 
I had the B&M Lumotec IQ Cyo with 60 lux and it didn't let me down once in a month of touring, and I was regularly riding long past dark, with quite a lot of descending at times.

As for setup, it's pretty simple - they come with naked wires and a variety of adapters.
Can't speak for any other brand but Shimano dynohubs have a little clip kind of like a USB plug with slots that you just route the copper into.
My setup was slightly more fiddly because I also wired an e-werk in parallel into the clip, but it's not difficult.
 
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tyred

Legendary Member
Location
Ireland
50 lux is plenty.

For wire, I use normal, basic twin pair speaker cable. You'll get it in a car accessory shop and it's cheap enough and neater than using separate wires.
 

glasgowcyclist

Charming but somewhat feckless
Location
Scotland
can any Busch & Müller light owners tell me if they come with the wiring needed or do I need to buy that as extra?

My IQ Cyo R Senso plus came with optional cable for attaching to a rear light.

My current bike has the Eyc T and while it's very good, I prefer the output of the beam on my Cyo R along with its far superior stand light. The standlight on the Eyc is so feeble that I have added an Aldi COB light for use on the front when I'm stopped at junctions.
 

andrew_s

Legendary Member
Location
Gloucester
For wire, I use normal, basic twin pair speaker cable. You'll get it in a car accessory shop and it's cheap enough and neater than using separate wires.
For rear lights:
Best is to pay £6.40 for a prebuilt connection cable with plugs
Next best is twin core wire like speaker cable. You'll have to fit the plugs yourself, and bodging the crimp with a pair of pliers isn't very reliable, so you'll want either a soldering iron or a proper crimping tool.
Worst is the single core cable of the type that is generally supplied with a rear light. It leaves you vulnerable to hard to find problems like bad electrical connections between one bit of a bike and another, or shorts when the cable rubs through somewhere.
 

subaqua

What’s the point
Location
Leytonstone
you get in the box

the light. which has 3 ft of cable attached to go to the dynamo. there is then a short 2 inch stub of cable also attached to the light, which has small insulated spade connectors for connecting a rear light.

there is then about 8 ft of cable with spades on one end to run to rear light.

the rear light came with the same 8ft of cable.

I used Heavy duty twin cable that is used in work for the 48v site lighting instead as lower resistivity is always good
 

steveindenmark

Legendary Member
The wires and adaptors come with them. You put on the adaptors that suit your dynamo and off you go.

They are excellent lights.
 

shouldbeinbed

Rollin' along
Location
Manchester way
50 Lux will be fine and you'll find the distribution far better than battery lights.

Check prices on Rose bikes.
This, tremendously this.

Also don't discount Trelock lights. Very good units at decent price.
 
OP
OP
Noru

Noru

Well-Known Member
Awesome thanks for all the info & tips everyone.

Regarding stand light concerns I'll also be using a Cycliq FLy6 on the rear and I'll keep one of my current front battery powered Cateye EL135's too.

Rose Bikes is good on price but Practical Cycles has the bottle dynamo version I'm after.
 

birdieman

New Member
I think it depends on which model you buy.

Mine were the Classic N Plus 25lux which came with a 60cm cable only, this connects from the dynamo hub to the 'In' ports of the light.
The rear light, also from Busch & Muller Line Small came with a very short cable attached.

No I would check with the Seller before purchasing to prevent a second trip and potential delay. I had to source a cable compatible for the flat head connections on the rear, that would marry up with the male ports on the light. Albeit, very happy with the lights. So it's still worth the trouble.
 
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