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Happened to my nephew pn his first ride as well, luckily only 2 miles from homeBrand new its going back to the shop tomorrow to get sorted out.
Happened to my nephew pn his first ride as well, luckily only 2 miles from homeBrand new its going back to the shop tomorrow to get sorted out.
Got a source for that? I've broken more spokes than chains and I've snapped more cables than spokes.Relatively rare but probably the most likely cause of a breakdown next to a sudden deflation event.
Got a source for that? I've broken more spokes than chains and I've snapped more cables than spokes.
Because @Ajax Bay is an old punk at heartWhat is that for beyond 'generally being able to pin things in a safe manner' then?
If you haven't got what's needed to mend a puncture, that's a 'breakdown'. Since punctures happen (but not often (depending on your metric)) the prudent rider carries the necessary. The tyre (rather than the tube) may fail (eg sidewall gash) so carry a tyre boot or improvise. Normally with a broken spoke, opening the calipers will allow one to complete a ride, but this is made easier if a spoke key is carried (and the rider knows how to use it) - and easier the higher the number of spokes. I suggest a brake cable breaking is rare (but you have two brakes). Rider needs to make a decision if the front brake cable goes. Imo it would be prudent to swap the intact rear brake cable to the front if you have any distance to go. If a gear cable breaks, an FD can be set on the inner (middle on a triple) chainring and press on. If the RD cable goes this is more difficult but unless the ride is a hilly one, the two/three gears offered by shifting at the front should see you to your destination. An allen key and a screwdriver is needed for these fixes, and maybe a ziptie as well. If a chain breaks then a chain splitter is required (tho' it's been suggested upthread that a bit of screwdriver blade leveraging might get the damaged sideplates off) to allow a 'quicklink' to be used to mend the chain. As the OP said, failed chain and no chain tool/quicklink = long way home (hopefully as much as possible downhill). Broken axle - an overtightened QR can normally hold this together for a distance (which may or may not be enough to get home). Twisted stem/STIs (eg after a crash) can be sorted with allen keys. Failed freehub or freewheel are more challenging, but you can't carry anything to help, really. If the bike has a hanger, a failed hanger can only be solved by carrying a spare hanger (and some people do, on long rides, given how esoteric each hanger is).You can limp home with a broken spoke or cable, but not with a broken chain.
Punk? Well after my time. Also useful for teasing out the ends of gear cables lodged in an STI when the cable breaks just below the nipple (a standard point of failure especially for 'under bar tape routed' cables.Because @Ajax Bay is an old punk at heart
Got a source for that? I've broken more spokes than chains and I've snapped more cables than spokes.
Is a broken spoke or broken cable really a breakdown though? You can limp home with a broken spoke or cable, but not with a broken chain.
As well as @Ajax Bay's excellent point that anything you haven't got the tool to fix is a breakdown, I remind you where we came in, with this excellent description of limpingly riding a bike home with a broken chain:Is a broken spoke or broken cable really a breakdown though? You can limp home with a broken spoke or cable, but not with a broken chain.
Some parts which were down hill I managed to ride down and other bits I just sat on it and used the curb to push me down the road.Like a child on a balance bike.
No science to it at all, I'm afraid. Just a gut feel. But would one broken spoke or one broken cable make your bike unable to get home? A broken chain will, of course.Got a source for that? I've broken more spokes than chains and I've snapped more cables than spokes.
No science to it at all, I'm afraid. Just a gut feel. But would one broken spoke or one broken cable make your bike unable to get home? A broken chain will, of course.
The only difference between a 10-speed chain and an 8-speed is the rivets are shorter on the 10-speed. Therefore, the higher the number of speeds the stronger the chain, no?
Maybe.The only difference between a 10-speed chain and an 8-speed is the rivets are shorter on the 10-speed. Therefore, the higher the number of speeds the stronger the chain, no?
I broke a chain not too long ago on my MTB and didn't have a chain tool with me - and I had a 5-mile walk home, albeit coasting downhills. Now I always have a chain tool in my bag.
The only breakdown I've ever had that I couldn't have fixed on the road whatever reasonable toolkit I had with me was a broken rear axle, and that resulted in a 10-mile walk home - thankfully it was many years (and kilos) ago so the strain wasn't too bad (and it was a nice sunny day near the coast).
I actually was on a 6-speed block at the time (and, in fact, still am :-), and I'd managed about a mile going slowly before it completely fell apart and my 10-mile walk started - it would still freewheel, but any pedal pressure and it locked up (and it was dead flat all the way home with no downhills).In the days when we were on 5 or 6 speed blocks broken rear axles weren't uncommon, I always found I could get home by going very slowly and walking the climbs.