So I finally got the right tool to install the new cassette, and I got the bike hooked up to the trainer for the first time. Should it feel or sound any different than it does off the trainer? I just got the bike last spring, so I'm new to this. Never used a trainer before. I'm sure I can't quite explain it, but it kind of feels and sounds like it's shifting gears when it's just riding normal. That kind of transition sound/feel when you switch gears for a second. I don't see anything rubbing, and it doesn't sound like metal on metal. Any way for me to make sure I have the cassette installed correctly, spaced right, anything else? I don't want to ruin something on the bike because I installed it wrong. What else can I try to explain? Does this sound at all normal for a first time on a trainer? Maybe a trainer just feels/sounds a little different than riding out on the road? Maybe not having the sound and feel of the road makes a difference? Maybe being in my basement affects the sound? Thanks for any thoughts.
Does it sound/feel different to ride on a trainer for the first time?
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Specialeyes
Guru
- Location
- Essex
Sounds to me like you just need to tweak the barrel adjuster on your rear derailleur to ensure it's aligned with the new cassette. You don't say if it's a wheel-on trainer or a direct drive (wheel-off) trainer, but in either case you might need to slightly adjust the mech as a first suggestion. If you can get someone else to pedal the bike on the trainer and sit behind it, have them first of all make sure the derailleur can access all the sprockets in the cassette, then with the chain somewhere in the middle of the cassette , turn the barrel adjuster a quarter turn at a time until the 'almost-shifting' sound stops and the mech is as quiet as you can get it. Of course, you can do this by yourself but it can involve a bit of trial and error. The advantage of having a helper is that you can do it visually as well, and in real time.
kingrollo
Guru
A trainer will feel different to the road. Bear in mind outside you have a whole range of background noise , wind, traffic, etc + and you also concentrating on keeping that skinny bit of rubber in the right place.
I've never got on with turbos having tried many times. The locked in position doesn't suit me.
Good luck.
I've never got on with turbos having tried many times. The locked in position doesn't suit me.
Good luck.
I would agree with the previous post that the rear mech just needs a tweak, on ours where I replace a complete wheel I have to turn the barrel adjuster slightly just to realign the chain.
It should run quietly
fossyant
Ride It Like You Stole It!
- Location
- South Manchester
This is it. The casette is on the Kickr and could be a fraction out compared to the hub on the bike, even different hubs can have a slight difference in alignment for the assette. Usually you'll just need 1/2 to one rotation of the barell adjuster on the rear mech.
I used to have to adjust my race bike between switching wheels (totally different hubs)
Thanks for all of the advice. I don't think I'm doing anything destructive to where I'm hearing metal scraping metal, and now that you guys taught me about the barrel adjuster, I've been able to get good and close and I don't see the chain hitting anything. Probably just the things you guys said.
So, sounds like I just start up an account on zwift and give it a go. Worst case scenario, I guess I give the local bike shop some extra business in about two months when I bring it in for a spring tune up.
So, sounds like I just start up an account on zwift and give it a go. Worst case scenario, I guess I give the local bike shop some extra business in about two months when I bring it in for a spring tune up.
