home built trike

[ufkacbln]

View attachment 21017 View attachment 21018 View attachment 21019 And how I left her tonight,. Next is to make the track control arm. Watch this space

A tie rod with a rose joint is the popular way to go. It allows you to alter the tracking and also has sufficient movement to allow angle alteration when the wheels turn
This is the Catrike version:

 

[XRHYSX]

A tie rod with a rose joint is the popular way to go. It allows you to alter the tracking and also has sufficient movement to allow angle alteration when the wheels turn
This is the Catrike version:

that's exactly how I'm going to do it

 

[mickle]

Do you know about Ackermann?

 

[XRHYSX]

Do you know about Ackermann?

yes

 

[Night Train]

I was in two minds whether or not to fit front brakes, thinking they would just rip the arms off in a high speed stop! but I've had them in the vice and swung on them with no movement so think I will fit them, will be safer too

I don't think a trike can stop on rear brake alone. On mine about 99.99% of the braking force comes from the front wheels. It gets to 100% just before the chain rings hit the tarmac!
My Ratrike has front and rear disc brakes. The rear brake is only really useful for 'handbrake turns'. I don't even use it for parking as it is so ineffective.

Arch's Catrike Dash only has front brakes, one to each hand.

 

[XRHYSX]

I don't think a trike can stop on rear brake alone. On mine about 99.99% of the braking force comes from the front wheels. It gets to 100% just before the chain rings hit the tarmac!
My Ratrike has front and rear disc brakes. The rear brake is only really useful for 'handbrake turns'. I don't even use it for parking as it is so ineffective.

Arch's Catrike Dash only has front brakes, one to each hand.

Atomic Zombie said he would trust one good rear brake but made them anyway,
I have to have something there to mount the trackrod to
and I now plan to have the kiddie trailer (with a 2 yr old) on it, so will need some good anchors

 

[XRHYSX]

The rear triangle is set up for disc brakes, but brought the frame bare so will have to source a rear disc, wheel and caliper at some point

 

[XRHYSX]

A falling rate suspension is where the spring rate appears to reduce as the suspension is compressed. This is caused by the geometry of the swing arm causing the spring mounting point to move in such a way that it compresses the spring a smaller distance the further into its travel it goes.

In other words. When the suspension is unloaded a small amount of movement acts on the spring to compress it a certain amount. However, once the suspension has been loaded further, the same movement in the suspension causes a smaller amount of compression in the spring then before. So the spring feels softer the more it is compressed.

This is not good as it allows the suspension to collapse the spring in full compression without any further load.

The suspension should really be a rising rate so it gets stiffer as you load it.

Right, Ok, Its taken a while but I suddenly see what you mean Oh well, this is only a toy for mucking about on, will try harder next time, promise

 

[mickle]

Or just eliminate the rear sus altogether by welding it up.

 

[Night Train]

Right, Ok, Its taken a while but I suddenly see what you mean Oh well, this is only a toy for mucking about on, will try harder next time, promise

You might want to leave as designed and test it as soon as the chassis is road worthy to see if it is a problem or Mickle is just seeing things.
Altering the angle of the suspension unit may be all that is needed.



Something to think about when towing a trailer.
A while ago I had a heavy trailer on the back of the Ratrike. As I approached a slight downhill give way line I braked as I entered the right turn lane. The braking, and the downhill gradient put most of the load on the front wheels. As the trailer wasn't directly behind the trike, due to the lane change, the trailer pushed the lightly loaded rear wheel sideways nearly jack-knifing the trike.

It got me thinking about trailer brakes.....

 

[jayjay]

+1 please on the "rear brake only" problem, in my opinion only good for very low speeds or making long black tyremarks. I used to have a Triang scooter (admittedly much taller device) and used the rear tyre brake to sign most of Bridlington's pavements.

 

[Tigerbiten]

Something to think about when towing a trailer.
A while ago I had a heavy trailer on the back of the Ratrike. As I approached a slight downhill give way line I braked as I entered the right turn lane. The braking, and the downhill gradient put most of the load on the front wheels. As the trailer wasn't directly behind the trike, due to the lane change, the trailer pushed the lightly loaded rear wheel sideways nearly jack-knifing the trike.

It got me thinking about trailer brakes.....

The only time I've jack-knifed my trike-trailer was when I was trying to do it on black ice .......
Apart from that, even with the trailer weighing ~40 Kg, I've never had the back-end step out of line under brakes on my ICE trike with a large Carry Freedom trailer behind it.
But it probably helps that both my front brakes are worked off a single lever, so there's no chance of a single brake twisting the trike around.

I'm another one who thinks a back brake on a tadpole trike is best used as a drag/parking brake.
It will stop you, but you'll need over 10x the distance to stop in vs using the front brakes.

 

[Night Train]

The only time I've jack-knifed my trike-trailer was when I was trying to do it on black ice .......
Apart from that, even with the trailer weighing ~40 Kg, I've never had the back-end step out of line under brakes on my ICE trike with a large Carry Freedom trailer behind it.
But it probably helps that both my front brakes are worked off a single lever, so there's no chance of a single brake twisting the trike around.

I'm another one who thinks a back brake on a tadpole trike is best used as a drag/parking brake.
It will stop you, but you'll need over 10x the distance to stop in vs using the front brakes.

The Ratrike also has both front brakes on one lever. The problem may also be due to the relatively short wheelbase.

 

[XRHYSX]

Or just eliminate the rear sus altogether by welding it up.

Err.. No Thank you

 

[XRHYSX]

Something to think about when towing a trailer.
A while ago I had a heavy trailer on the back of the Ratrike. As I approached a slight downhill give way line I braked as I entered the right turn lane. The braking, and the downhill gradient put most of the load on the front wheels. As the trailer wasn't directly behind the trike, due to the lane change, the trailer pushed the lightly loaded rear wheel sideways nearly jack-knifing the trike.

It got me thinking about trailer brakes.....

I've had the trailer over five years now, use it on my MTB all the time for Kids, Shopping and even a tip run. I did have a twitch once, when fully loaded with the older two then 3 and 4 yrs old, stopping on a bend in the wet, Keeps you on your toes I'm going to fit a duel brake leaver to work the front brakes