I have a 11-32 and round 'ere theres alot of suddenly unpredictable steep stuff that make a 32 struggle but a 28 probably not do-able :P
I'd recommend it if you're struggling too much on it.
Rear derailleur
- Thread starter broady
- Start date
Page may contain affiliate links. Please see terms for details.
I have a 11-32 and round 'ere theres alot of suddenly unpredictable steep stuff that make a 32 struggle but a 28 probably not do-able :P
I'd recommend it if you're struggling too much on it.
What part of Leicester are you @Tangoup51 ?
Smokin Joe
Legendary Member
- Location
- Bare headed cyclist, Smoker
Do yourself a favour -
http://www.machinehead-software.co.uk/bike/chain_length/chain_length_calculator.html
No guessing, no bull, it gives you the optimum chain lenght every time.
http://www.machinehead-software.co.uk/bike/chain_length/chain_length_calculator.html
No guessing, no bull, it gives you the optimum chain lenght every time.
Yellow Saddle
Guru
- Location
- Loch side.
That's too toit. 45 degrees maximum.
S-Express
Guest
Not in the usable gears it won't. Big/big is a viable (if inadvisable) option, so worth compensating for.
I live a couple o' miles outside Leicester city, in the villages toward loughborough.
Perhaps you should also advise him he should ensure his front derailleur doesn't rub against the chain when he's in the small-small gears.
Point being, don't compromise all for the sake of one. It's not good advice.
raleighnut
Legendary Member
- Location
- One of the 'Elite'
One of the best bike shops in the county out that way, Cyclops in Syston.
S-Express
Guest
Not sure what point you're making there mate. I'm unconcerned about chain rub in small/small, as I never go anywhere near it. Big/big, on the other hand, well there's far more likelihood of hitting that on a more regular basis - so yes, it is worth compensating for. In any case, the two are not mutually exclusive.
The point being adjusting your entire drivetrain to work on gears that aren't designed to be used frequently (if not at all) is a bad compromise for the rest. And bad advice.
One of the best bike shops in the county out that way, Cyclops in Syston.
Mm, funny you should mention. I tried to get a job there but ended getting another bike job elsewhere before I got a chance to hear back
Most of the routes i do end up going through syston at some point though. Stalk me if you can
S-Express
Guest
It isn't though. As I'm sure someone with your knowledge and experience will already understand, it is perfectly possible to adjust the inner and outer limits of the FD independently of each other.
For instance, SRAM 2x10 and 2x11 drivetrains are capable of running big/big crossover routinely - but I'm sure you already knew that.
"It isn't though." - That's a very hollow counter argument you present. Being in those gears is bad for more reasons than it is good, particularly if you actually your desired cassette gear ratios set up. I don't know why you're trying so hard to hold onto something that clearly is not making any good sense.
Yes, you can do that with the FD... that's kind of the point with the limiter screws of them being independent....I don't think you understood what I said..
They're capable of this? every bike is capable of that. Whether it's advisable for the health of your drivetrain however, is another question, a sacrifice not worth making for any reason.
Also, what does it matter if Said Sram 2x11 is able to do this without any problems This makes no sense in relation to the OP or his bike.
Last edited:
S-Express
Guest
It's simply a foil to your assertion that "adjusting your entire drivetrain to work on gears that aren't designed to be used frequently (if not at all) is a bad compromise for the rest. And bad advice." Those were the words you used.
Ironically, I'm not sure you understood what you said yourself. There is obviously no need to adjust the 'entire drive train' (your words) in order to get the drivetrain running in big/big.
I know it isn't an ideal gear (I said as much in my first reply), but it is perfectly usable - unless of course your chain isn't long enough, which is the bit that relates to the OP.
If you want a 100% healthy chainline 100% of the time, run a single-speed on 42mm.
