so are u saying the rear wheel wont fit its the new 105 11speed hub (135mm).
i would love to get spa to build a new wheel but to be honest money wise i'de be struggling big time.
Our opinions seem divided on this point, Jags.
The issue is that 'mountain bike' hubs (like Deore) are 135mm wide between locknuts. 'Road bike' hubs (like older 105) are 130mm wide.
Steel is a springy material (that's why it makes such good, tough, comfortable bike frames), and the stays of a steel frame will easily 'spring' 5mm either way so that a 135mm hub can be fitted in a 130mm-spaced frame or vice versa. It will make fitting the wheel in the frame fractionally more difficult - although in my experience, in real-world situations, mud, brake muck, corrosion, salt, darkness, greasy or cold hands and combinations of the above are usually more of an issue than a slight spring to the frame.
Because of this difference between 'road' and 'mountain bike' hubs, Spa have split the difference and built their frame spaced at 132.5mm.
'Springing' a frame like this has no consequences whatever in my practical experience, over considerable distances. This kind of bodge offends some, especially engineers, though, and arguably it
is a bodge, albeit a very minor one. The extra load on a hub, I would think (especially a 130mm hub in a 132.5mm frame) would be negligible. I'd think cornering loads and water penetration and corrosion (especially on a 105 hub, which has less sealing) would be far greater concerns. (If it's a solid axle rather than a quick-release, the spring would make no difference to the hub at all).
If you can't live with springing the frame to remove and refit the rear wheel (and we're only talking 2.5mm here!), one solution is to 'cold set' the frame so that the stays are fixed to suit the hub exactly. Any competent bike shop should be able to do this for you; probably Spa would do it themselves if you asked. It's essentially done by strong-arming the stays together or apart, hopefully equally on both sides, cold-bending them fractionally to achieve the spacing you want. (Most bike shops would prefer to do this while you're not looking - it looks - and is - crude! It might be worth adding that unless the frame builder is incredibly good, or very lucky, doing this procedure on a completed frame is usually necessary anyway to fine-tune the track and spacing the last millimetre or so, so adjusting by a further 2.5mm is really no different).
Another solution might be to remove one or two washers or spacers from the stack on the hub axle, or replace the ones it comes with with slightly thinner ones, or grind them down a touch, so that its over-lock-nut width is 132.5mm exactly. This is possible with many hubs, although I haven't looked at an 11-speed 105 to see if it could be done there. On a frame with very tight clearances, this might result in the chain coming close to or fouling the stays; you'd really have to eyeball the hub and cassette in the frame to assess this.
But in short, I'd say, if you like the look of the Spa frame, go for it. Your 105 hubs will fit, practically, just fine, and you can change to tougher Deore hubs later if you want with no problems. Springing isn't, in my opinion, a real-world issue, and you still have the options of cold-setting or re-spacing a hub if you want to avoid it. The folk at Spa are very competent bicycle technicians and many of them experienced tourers too, so if you want further opinions, ask them. They're usually happy to chat on the phone about this kind of thing, or even better, call in - then you can look at and point at things on real bikes while you discuss them. (Clearly they'll have more time to do this in the middle of a wet weekday than on a sunny Saturday morning).
As for transmission parts, if you want a tough, go-anywhere tourer, old-school is usually best, especially if your expedition is going to take you to the sticks in the middle of nowhere in Africa or Asia. Square-taper, internal-bearing bottom brackets maybe a little old-fashioned, but they can be fixed or replaced anywhere; this is not true of splined ones. 8-speed chain can be picked up just about anywhere, while 11-speed technology probably hasn't reached many of those bike mechanics who work on the side of the road outside a tin shack in Pemba or Mombasa. If you're staying in Europe, forget all that and have what you want. (I have 8-speed because I find it's tougher, easier to set up, lasts longer, and I don't need 33 gears!)
To me it would seem slightly strange to put a double on a touring bike. Weight stops being an issue the minute you decide on steel and put luggage on it, so why not have the triple and know that it will haul you up pretty much anything?
If you're not going to be hauling much gear and you really want to keep the weight to the bare minimum, you might consider the Spa Audax instead? It's a touch lighter, I think, built with calliper brakes in mind (no canit/V-brake studs) and built for the kind of light, fast touring you may have in mind.