TP's Commuter Maintenance

[Mile195]

Re the dérailleur, make certain that your rear wheel is in straight before you go blaming anything else.
Sit it on the ground, undo the quick release clamp and make sure it's in as far as it goes both sides.
I had terrible trouble with inconsistent shifting one time and no adjustment was putting it right. Took me several days to work out this was the problem!

 

[mustang1]

The brake pic in the op is the front, you see I replaced the rear in August her but the front didn't need it:
https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/brake-pad-replacement.185903/

And also in August new chain and maintained the cassette here:

https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/new-chain-shifting-on-its-own.186686/#post-3879975

The bike is 2.5yrs old, only used for good weather training and triathlon, stored in garage and never outside until two months ago...

Now I have to chain it outside work, though I have a cover for bad weather, and I'm commuting 100km/day three days a week. So I'm not surprised it's a bit fecked, I just haven't examined it in daylight recently with all my tube/tyre troubles!

WHAAAA???

 

[Tin Pot]

Anyone know how I can check if my spokes have been damaged?

I don't know what "good" looks like, really.

Wiped down the chain and covered the bike at work, then wiped and lived it at night.

 

[Ajax Bay]

If you've indulged in prolonged spoke bashing because you've needed to be in your lowest gear (I suspect unlikely during a commute, and as soon as this happens the immediate action is to change up to the second largest and stand up if necessary) the (drive side) spokes will show a bit of scratching near their centres but they invariably fail either at the ends (neck or nipple) so you won't be able to see the damage there. I don't think you should worry. Reset the RD till you can shift into the large sprocket (when the chain is on the inner chainwheel) without the cage clashing on the spokes. If you can't do this then, to reprise the favourite (almost standard) solution of @screenman, check the RMA: in another thread:
"Rear mech alignment is the place most good technicians will start from."

 

[Pat "5mph"]

Oh goodness @Tin Pot
My ice bike does not look like that after a winter's constant use, never mind couple of times a week.
Top tip from an everyday, all weather commuter (I don't have a car): always have at home spare brake pads and chain, ready for an impromptu fitting.
Buy some when you see them on offer, remember where you put them

 

[Tin Pot]

Sorry i dont have anything to add. But with regards to your rather 'spotty' commuting days would not be possible to commute via bicycle more? Im saying this because after discovering I could do it, I hate the thought of getting on public transport unless I cant help it with the rest of the populace who are passing coughs and colds around like the plague in a confined space. (no offence to the rest of the populace of course - But I dont want to get infected by your germs ) Commuting with other cyclists and road users is also somewhat calming for the soul when there is no bell end trying to run you off the road or tailgating you. Just blank out the folks in steel cages. The only time they'll want to converse with you is either when theyve knocked you off your bike (God forbid) or when they think you have no right to be on the road because you dont pay road tax.



The only time i wont commute is when Its completely pissing down with rain or when its blowing a gale. otherwise I will never take public transport.

I agree with your sentiment but 300km / 13.5hrs bike a week is enough given I need to run and swim also.

 

[Tin Pot]

If you've indulged in prolonged spoke bashing because you've needed to be in your lowest gear (I suspect unlikely during a commute, and as soon as this happens the immediate action is to change up to the second largest and stand up if necessary) the (drive side) spokes will show a bit of scratching near their centres but they invariably fail either at the ends (neck or nipple) so you won't be able to see the damage there. I don't think you should worry. Reset the RD till you can shift into the large sprocket (when the chain is on the inner chainwheel) without the cage clashing on the spokes. If you can't do this then, to reprise the favourite (almost standard) solution of @screenman, check the RMA: in another thread:
"Rear mech alignment is the place most good technicians will start from."

I suspect you're right - I hadn't thought about rarely being in bottom gear. I'll double check at the weekend though. Cheers.

Hoping the new blocks have arrived today.

 

[Tin Pot]

Oh goodness @Tin Pot
My ice bike does not look like that after a winter's constant use, never mind couple of times a week.
Top tip from an everyday, all weather commuter (I don't have a car): always have at home spare brake pads and chain, ready for an impromptu fitting.
Buy some when you see them on offer, remember where you put them

Any idea if you can get a bucket of brake inserts somewhere rather than shelling out £12 for four?

 

[Pat "5mph"]

Any idea if you can get a bucket of brake inserts somewhere rather than shelling out £12 for four?

Google is you friend
Best bet is to follow the found a bargain thread also subscribe to the newsletters of all major bike retailers.

 

[Tin Pot]

Google is you friend
Best bet is to follow the found a bargain thread also subscribe to the newsletters of all major bike retailers.

I have actually tried google and the bargain thread to no avail so far

 

[Tin Pot]

Google is you friend
Best bet is to follow the found a bargain thread also subscribe to the newsletters of all major bike retailers.

Any idea if inserts fit all housings?

I've got Fibrax Science brake housing/blocks and these look like they'd fit:

http://www.wiggle.co.uk/lifeline-essential-road-brake-inserts-pack-of-4/

 

[youngoldbloke]

Those will (very probably), cheap enough, but don't forget p+p. I've used DiscoBrakes ones in the past, they used to do a very good 4 pair deal with free p+p

 

[Smurfy]

I'm afraid that chains are not well suited to British winters, as the weather means it is often either raining, or there is a lot of salt on the road. If you are able to run a separate bike for commuting, my recommendation is either belt drive with single speed setup, or belt drive with internal geared hub if you struggle on hills. A belt simply won't care how much water and salt you throw at it, and you won't ever need to clean or oil it. In terms of the grey dirty mess created by brake blocks and wet commutes, the obvious answer is disk brakes. What I've suggested is probably not what you wanted to hear, but is sound advice for anyone considering buying a bike solely for commuting.

 

[themosquitoking]

Any idea if inserts fit all housings?

I've got Fibrax Science brake housing/blocks and these look like they'd fit:

http://www.wiggle.co.uk/lifeline-essential-road-brake-inserts-pack-of-4/

They look like they'll fit but they look very cheap and nasty. Brake pads aren't really an area you want to econimise on a bike.

 

[Tin Pot]

They look like they'll fit but they look very cheap and nasty. Brake pads aren't really an area you want to econimise on a bike.

I can see why someone would say that, but it's just a freaking sliver of rubber. There's no magic here.